Diff mounted vs Full Length Track Bar

[D-n-Tyke]

Getting ready to lower my truck. I am going to also be ordering up an adjustable track bar to be installed during the lowering. However, I am wondering if there is any advantage/disadvantage of the full length track bar (from frame to trailing arm) over running one in the stock location? My rear end has the mount in it to run it in the stock location so maybe I am just over thinking this. However, figured I would ask before I ordered.

[lolife99]

The longer track bar allows less side to side movement during suspension travel.
This is probably more noticeable on bagged trucks that go from All the way up to all the way down.
Either way I would get an adjustable track bar to correctly re-center the rear axle after lowering.

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The longer track bar allows less side to side movement during suspension travel.
This is probably more noticeable on bagged trucks that go from All the way up to all the way down.
Either way I would get an adjustable track bar to correctly re-center the rear axle after lowering.

Thanks (again) for answering my question Lolife99. An adjustable track bar is being installed period. Just wanted to make sure one version didn't work better than the other. Sounds like since I am planning on going with a static drop (looking at going 3/5 maybe 4/6) staying with the stock location will be fine. That should make ordering the kit I am looking at better anyways. Looking at getting CPPs complete kit (already have the modular drop spindles) http://https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-6572lhpk

Can you help me pick the correct springs to get where I want to go. Going on C20 Burban, like I said looking to start out with a 3/5 and maybe move on to 4/6 if the 3/5 isn't low enough. Already have CPP modula drop spindles so I was thinking of ordering the kit with 1" springs for the front and 4"springs for the rear. Thinking 4" for the rears as I have read that with a Burban you want to go with 1 less inch than you really want to to the added weight of the burban body? Would love to hear your feed back on this. Thanks.

[lolife99]

Just remember the stance on your suburban is probably lower than NEW STOCK HEIGHT springs.
So if you are measuring off the current old sagging springs I would order a 4/6 setup to achieve a 3/5 advertised drop.
I agree the weight of the roof makes them drop a little more.
I would also use someone besides CPP.
I’ve seen their springs sag more over time.
You also need rear shock relocators and drop shocks.
There are a ton of companies out there besides CPP that flood the magazines with giant ads.
Look at McGaughy’s, Belltech or Western Chassis.
Find a company like Summit Racing that offers free shipping.
(You probably already know that)
And definitely start your front drop with drop spindles.
If it’s not low enough you can trim the front springs and add lowering blocks.

All just MY opinion.
I’m not a CPP Fan, if you couldn’t tell.

[HO455]

X2 on what Lolife99 said.
Depending on options your Burban weighs 800 to 1100 lbs more than a pickup. Plus the factory fuel tank is behind the rear axle. This makes it difficult to determine spring height when comparing to pickups.
In addition with that extra weight you will need more clearance between the axle and frame. For example occasionally street driven pickup that never carries a load may get by with 2.5" between axle and frame. Thus a Suburban with that much clearance is likely to have frame and axle hitting regularly (or constantly riding on the bump stop). All that weight has momentum.
The same applies to the rear shocks. Shocks that are be too harsh on a pickup would feel softer on a Suburban. And changing the rear shock mounting has even more benefit on a Suburban.