? for those with air bags.

[Cheyenne Super]

what are you going to do with you exhaust system?
the problem i will be runing in to is getting over the axle with out innference when the truck is all the way slammed.
I don't want to stop the exhaust before the axle due to back pressure issues.

[PushinPebbles]

You run block hugger headers and run the exhuast to the front of the rear axle.........................but most bagged trucks don't run their exhuast past the axle.................alot of work w/ the big notches .....................um another way is to run the headers that go over the frame rails......like on the old impalas and tri-fives........
hope this helps

[Low69CST]

I have a friend with a bagged 40 Chevy. He had the same problem and ended up with his exhaust ran under is axle instead of over. Also, if you don't have a blazer tank, i've seen people run exhaust through holes in the cross member right behind the rear end. That might give you a little extra room.

[Shane]

under the axle??? How does that work???

The exhaust must be connected to the frame somewhere (engine mounted to frame and exhaust mounted to engine)....and therefore, when the bags are deflated the exhaust is gonna drop too.....if its under the axle, where is it gonna drop.....on the ground???

Please explain....im not sure I understand.....

[Longhorn Man]

If back pressure is the only thing you are worried about.....don't worry about it. By the time the exhaust gets all the way back there, it has cooled enough that it just doesn't matter. You could run straight pipe with out mufflers, and by the time you got all the way to your axle it still wouldn't matter.

[Low69CST]

Well, first he's got a 40 chevy 4 door sedan. It has no where near the wheel travel our trucks do, so that cuts down on how far down the pipes have to turn down to clear the rear axle. The back of his car sits pretty low, so when it deflates, it only drops a few inches. He's got it the pipe droped down just far enough it clears the axle when driving and tucked up enough it doesn't touch the ground when he lets the air out. Slick set up.

[NSANE68!!!]

I Have ran bags for some time now. The reason the exhaust usually stops at the rear is, IT IS EASIEST. I looked under my bagged 68 there is still alot of room to get over the axle unless you did a body drop or MONSTER C-notch it should be no problem to get it out the back. The problem is finding an exaust guy willing to do the bends. I found that alot of shops will flat out tell you NO!!! Simply cause it will be to involved, not that it can't be done. JMO had to throw my 2cents in. Hope I didn't offend any exhaust guys. But the ones around the valley are pretty LAZY, as far as puttin in the bend time for a full custom exhaust.

[Cheyenne Super]

about the exhaust shop issue. btw did you have exhaust out the rear of the primer yellow truck on you website?

on the backpresure issue i am not so much worried about the temperature and backfiring as i am losing low end torque.
when i first bought my truck it had 2.5 exhaust exiting out the rear. i redid the exhaust w/ 2.5 in front of the rear tires. although it helps top end the bottom end isn't so good anymore.

i won't me monster notching the frame. I don't want to sacrifice the bed for the center section of the axle.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Cheyenne Super
about the exhaust shop issue. btw did you have exhaust out the rear of the primer yellow truck on you website?

on the backpresure issue i am not so much worried about the temperature and backfiring as i am losing low end torque.
when i first bought my truck it had 2.5 exhaust exiting out the rear. i redid the exhaust w/ 2.5 in front of the rear tires. although it helps top end the bottom end isn't so good anymore.

i won't me monster notching the frame. I don't want to sacrifice the bed for the center section of the axle.

1) Consider 2.25" exhaust. Backpressure is just basic math of "how much can you flow out of a tube?" If you shorten the tube, you can reduce the diameter and get the same results. The limitation here is that you can make an exhaust ANY length but you can't have ANY diameter pipe (because they don't make too many sizes), but you can get pretty darn close.

2) For notching the frame, etc-- my notch is the basic Classic Performance C-section kit...



which doesn't even go through the top side of the frame. I raised my bed floor a meager 2" and at full drop the pumpkin doesn't poke through... so I still have a flat bed floor. And mine still gets pretty low...



Kenneth

[Cheyenne Super]

what air bag kits do you have?

I will use the classic performance c-notch as well. I took some close measurements and I will be able to run the exhaust all the way out the back, that is if I get creative.

thanks

[XXL]

Originally posted by Cheyenne Super
what air bag kits do you have?

I'm using the kit from Air Ride Technologies. I highly recommend the guys at Air Ride for their superb support and their well-designed kits. Having said that... if you go with their kit, save yourself some trouble and upgrade to at least a 3 gallon air tank and the appropriate compressor. I started with the 2 gallon tank and it was not enough air to push the truck all the way up, so I had to cycle the compressor every time. That made lift times around the 2 minute range . I now have 2 3 gallon tanks, and 2 315 compressors to keep them filled, as well as their 4-way RidePro valves. I can drop the truck to the ground and lift it back up in under 8 seconds. I'm not into the hopping scene but I do want to be able to lift and go when I want to and not have to wait on the air supply!

If you check out my web site (link below) I've got a few pics of the current configuration. Also... here's a schematic of the current layout (Adobe Acrobat Reader required).

Kenneth

[Reumster]

You said you raised your bed floor 2"??? Is that required for the Classic Performance C-section kit? I was considering that for my Blazer.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Reumster
You said you raised your bed floor 2"??? Is that required for the Classic Performance C-section kit? I was considering that for my Blazer.

I don't have the bump stops in place because when I drive the truck, it's aired up... so has lots of clearance. Hence when I drop it I get an extra 1/5" or so of drop before the frame and axle meet. Because of this I needed clearance for the pumpkin. So... if you're using the bump stops you should be fine without cutting your Blazer floor.

Kenneth

[Reumster]

Thanks for the info.

I have one more question, can you get a electric controler for the bags to automatically go to say, ride height, pancake, and all the way up? with the touch of a switch?

[XXL]

Originally posted by Reumster
Thanks for the info.

I have one more question, can you get a electric controler for the bags to automatically go to say, ride height, pancake, and all the way up? with the touch of a switch?

Yes, they're available in a few different styles. Try AIM or GodFather's (you've probably seen their "catalogs" in Truckin'). I just added a 5th (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch with the outputs paralleled into the other 4 switches' "up" and "down" so teh 5th switch is like I was hitting the other 4 at once. Because of slight variances in fill rates, and because of different requirements for front and rear pressures, I still have to make minor adjustments for ride height once it's up and rolling. But dropping it is a matter of pushing a single button for a few seconds.

Kenneth

[fastbagged68]

I ran my exhaust under my axle. When air out the exhaust sits about an 1/8" off the ground then when its air all the way up its 1/8" below the axle. If I drive down the street with it aired out the exhaust does a nice spark show. I did that a few times to make the exhaust flat to give me more clearance. My exhuast never hits when i'm driving at ride hieght. You need to run at least 6 gallons of air at around 150psi in the tanks to make the car lift. i have 3/8" valves but soon to put on my Parker 1/2" valves and i can raise my truck now in about 2 seconds. Thats about 9" of travel. Soon to be hopefully a split sceond to lift the truck.

[jay-dawg]

he he he he...cool!!!! he he he he ( in my worst butthead impersonation).

jay