59 Apache - Lifelong obsession

[59chev]

Thanks ChuckDriver

[59chev]

I put the core support and rad back in to check clearance with the fan. The fan lines up right in the center and I have 1 1/2 inches from the fan to the rad.

[59chev]

I'm been working on mocking up my transmission crossmember. I'm using a kit from Welder Series that will let me unbolt the middle so the transmission could be dropped out without pulling the engine. I plan to weld the outer tubes to the Angle Iron and weld or bolt the angle iron to the frame.

The thing that I need to figure out is my exhaust. I would like to maintain as much ground clearance as possible. If possible I would like to run the exhaust above the transmission crossmember. I am wondering if I could sneak a pipe between the master cylinder and the transmission if I put a heat shield on the master? Has anyone else done this?

[dsraven]

how about a Y pipe arrangement so it comes out the pass side. it could still be a dual pipe if you want that. the booster is gonna cook otherwise. you could run a single large diameter pipe and get pretty good flow. not sure how air flow works exactly but fluid flow quadruples when the pipe size is doubled.

https://www.engineersedge.com/fluid_...ipes_14029.htm


ensure to make the cross member removable from the frame so you can swap out a booster or master cyl easy if you need to.
got a better pic of the ends of the cross member area? is the subframe extended back far enough to weld in some tube horizontally and then install bolts directly through that to hold the trans cross member? that would keep everything tucked up inside the frame so it doesn't hang down.

[59chev]

Yup, It's hard to see in the pic but the angle iron is hanging off the bottom rail of the truck frame and butted up against the camaro clip. Potentially I could bolt it both vertically and horizontally. The hole you see in the camaro clip under the boxing plate is the one you can see in the pic with the transmission crossmember.

[dsraven]

I would say "bolt'er up then man"
and, of course, attach the related pics. haha
do you know what you will use for exhaust manifolds or headers? would a large diameter Y pipe work for you? possibly even something from a stock vehicle but with large diameter pipe? all run down the pass side of the truck? diesels flow a lot and they only run a single pipe, something to think about? you could split it at the rear of the truck for the dual outlet look.
just a thought

[59chev]

I am planning on using the Patriot Clippster Headers designed for the camaro clip.

https://shop.patriotexhaust.com/patr...7-grand-p.html

[59chev]

Got the old leaf springs stripped off the frame and I'm excited to start mocking up the Welder Series 4 link. I started by getting the rear end centered and set the pinion angle. Then I tack welded it to the frame so it can't move. everything is just temporarily held in place with some huge hose style clamps. Started playing around with some cardboard to figure out my step notch. I carried it forward a bit to give me something to weld the upper airbag bracket to.

[SouthFlorida_Apache]

Looking good. Any updates?

[59chev]

Hopefully soon. Still working on the 4 link..

[SouthFlorida_Apache]

Awesome. I'll be following.

[dsraven]

don't forget to leave room for the exhaust back there without scorching an air bag.

[dsraven]

also, and I'm sure you already know, weld the brackets on with small welds at a time with time left in between to allow the axle tubes to cool. if not you will run the chance of a bent axle tube.

[59chev]

Thanks for the reminder, dsraven.

I plan on tacking the brackets to the rear end and then taking it to one of the local hotrod shops to get the brackets burned in for good for that reason. I bought one of those digital angle cubes to get my pinion angle set and check the bag bracket angles.

For the exhaust I was thinking of just dumping it in front of the rear end with turn downs or running it out under the step in front of the tire. The Panhard bar and gas tank is going to be behind the rear end so there won't be a whole lot of room back there for exhaust.

[dsraven]

Just know that exhaust has oxides of nitrogen plus water vapour. It usually means stuff behind the dumps gets rusty.

[dsraven]

does your 4 link have the panhard bar in front of the axle, on diagonal to the frame, so from front left to right rear? I have seen a few pics of that style and wondered how they would work. would they be close to the driveshaft possibly? obviously not because there are lots out there.

[59chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

does your 4 link have the panhard bar in front of the axle, on diagonal to the frame, so from front left to right rear? I have seen a few pics of that style and wondered how they would work. would they be close to the driveshaft possibly? obviously not because there are lots out there.

Nope, I'm using the Welder Series Panhard bar. It is cut to length. It will be mounted behind the rear end. I need to wait until I get my step notch welded in so I know how much to cut off.

I've wondered the same thing about those diagonal bars, seems like it would get in the way.

[59chev]

Still plugging along with my project. Got the notches mostly welded and all the brackets tacked onto the rear end.

[59chev]

Small update:

I found a 2" Bosch electric temperature gauge that I could cut up and complete my gauge cluster to go along with my modified volt gauge ( to replace the amp meter ) and modified Oil pressure. Stock temperature gauge on the left, new temp gauge and volt meter on the right. I just need to paint the needle green to match the other gauges.

The completed gauges has almost a stock look but will give me more detailed information which is what I was going for.

[59chev]

I made a big step forward.. Finally got the notch and 4 link done during the holidays.

[59chev]

I notched the cross member for driveshaft clearance. Used a piece of PVC to mock up the driveshaft.

[59chev]

I pulled my driver's door off to rebuild the hinges, then decided that now was as good a time as ever to replace the cab steps. Both steps have the typical rust under the center brace. My fix 15 years ago was to just fill the void with long strand fiberglass filler... I bought new replacement steps a couple of years ago and they were just sitting on a shelf in my garage, so I've been making good use of all the extra time at home while everything was shut down..

[dsraven]

nice work. I am curious if your doors are as bad as mine were. the bracketry inside the door to mount the hinge is cracked in mine. I will need to reskin the bottom of the door anyway so I plan to fix it then. the broken bracket makes the door flex a lot so the fix should help with door gaps and general fitment. also the web of steel between the inner and outer skin, near the bottom edge of the vent window, is cracked as well. the door is really quite flimsy with those parts being compromised. anyway, what made me think of that is the pic of your steps. it may be good to have the door hung at some point there so the lower edge of the door can be fit properly to the rocker. also the step fitment has an affect on the lower hinge pillar location so door fitment could be different when you're done than when you started. just a heads up.
love the pics, keep them coming.

[dsraven]

my welders series panhard bar was set up a little different than yours but just remember the bar should sit fairly level at ride height so side to side motion of the axle will be minimized with suspension travel up/down. anyway, as long as you have room behind your tires and between the fender lip and the tires you should be fine either way. possibly run the suspension through a full bottom to top stroke to make sure. once the box is in place.

[59chev]

Surprisingly the doors were extremely solid. I think they were the only thing on the truck that wasn't all rusted out. I pulled off the inner panel and soaked both sets of bolts with fluid film for a couple of weeks before I tried to loosen the bolts. I was pleasantly surprised when I was able to get all the bolts out of the door and the hinges.

In regards to the panhard bar, the last pic I posted is all the way down on the bumpstops. I was checking for driveshaft clearance at full drop. I set it up to be level at ride height. I used all Welders Series parts but I changed it up a bit from how they are designed. Instead of running their Airbag specific 4 link which puts the bags behind the rear end and outside the framerails, I decided to use their Universal Parallel 4 Link designed for coilovers with their separate bag brackets. This allowed me to place the shocks outside the frame rails and run the panhard behind the rear end instead of in front of it.