Painting over a new paint job (color change)

[Dubnova]

Hey Guys, I am in need of some help. I have my bed, tailgate, rear inter fenders and a few other pieces painted on the 65. I went with RED and now after seeing it in person I am thing about going back to the factory blue. The cab and front end a still a few weeks away from spraying. I was wondering if its possible to paint over fresh single stage that has been clear coated. The paint is PPG single stage urethane. Is it a scuff and shoot or is a complete redo in order? Link to the build is here.....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=616429&page=2

[hugger6933]

Sorry, I didn't go to the build thread, has the clear been cut and buffed? that is my main concern about the wax that may be on the surface. You are a WHOLE lot better off if it has not been cut and buffed yet and then there would be no silicone or waxes on the surface to act or react to the fresh coat that you want to lay down. If you have not done anything but untape and look at the parts and enjoy or apparently dislike the parts sand those suckers down with some 600 grit and reshoot the blue color. I would call up 400 grit in some cases but the blue paint may be laiden with metal flake and if you have ever followed any of my posts or stories you will remember that 400 grit will leave microscopic sand scratches that the metal flakes will line up in [for the lack of a better term] and that just doesn't seem to happen with 600 grit. Also since the clear is still a little soft make sure to use plenty of Dawn dish soap on the paper to help it slide across the surface instead of digging into it. I know it is a pain to change your mind midstream but you will be much much happier later cause the color is something that really needs to be right on a project or a person just won't feel the same about it. Jim

[Dubnova]

Thanks Jim, The paint has been cut and buffed. It really slick but, it's not blue

[hugger6933]

I can't stress enough how much the wax and grease remover needs to no wait has to be applied all over those surfaces not just once but do it three times just to make sure that nothing was missed on the second pass before sanding. I would hate for you to have a frying problem that would lead to more problems that in turn ends up with you in time stripping the panels after it all goes bad wrong. I am not trying to scare you I just want you to know that the wax and silicone stuff that was used to bring back the shine after it was cut it is not the friend of new paint when it is sprayed over the top and the new paint will not act well to it. So I am just saying that about going over it with the WGR so to make sure all traces are gone before proceeding. Jim

[Dubnova]

Thanks again Jim. I might just dip the bed in WGR to be sure. Just kidding. I will wipe it down a bunch of times over several days before I start to make sure. Do you favor one brand over another? Uh......PPG paint was used so I WILL USE PPG. thanks again.

[hugger6933]

Well, I use the PPG stuff as well. I am a Omni guy I buy so very little of the WGR cause it last so long [like a gallon or so a year in my shop].

[Dubnova]

The red paint is PPG concept ddc acrylic urethane and the white is deltron. The clear looks to be concept as well.

[tinydb84]

That red looks amazing. I wouldn't do the work to switch colors now.

[Dubnova]

Thanks and yeah I am kinda going back and forth. I do think a white top with the correct fawn interior and fawn firewall will really help. I the older I get the more I like em stock .....

[BigDan3131]

Well I know a way you can have both the blue and the red. How skilled is the painter? If he's shot kandy's and pearls and has had success with them I would shoot Cobalt Blue Kandy over the red. The cobalt is a very dark blue and with the right amounts of color the only time you will see the red is when the sun shines that area. I have the cobalt over a very bright green in fact its the green used on the 1990 ZR1, the truck just looks a very deep rich blue.