63' C20 Longbed slow build thread....

[defgone]

Hello all...been lurking around here a bit lately looking and reading about all the incredible builds that are posted here...i am starting on my venture down this road as well...picked up a 63' C20 that runs and drives (mostly) at least around the neighborhood and onto the trailer i towed it home on...long term goals will be to put it on the ground with airbags and disc brakes but keeping the engine and trans and visible stuff somewhat period correct...was looking into a mild hop up on the stock 230 engine and kind of have an idea where i'm heading with that...going to put a better geared rear end on it within the next couple weeks...it's a 4 on the floor trans (which is pretty much a 3 speed with granny gear from what i can tell)...i have a few questions too if any one can enlighten me...

will most of the C10 stuff bolt up to a C20??...i was going to start with a 2-1/2" lowered spindle with a 5 lug brake set up and 1" lowered springs on front and 5" lowered springs in rear with a step notch and shocks all around....i see kits out there for all this stuff but most just list as C10 trucks...

want to get it low and running and stopping well so i can save up for drop member and full air ride....

Thanks and I will keep try to keep this updated as progress is made

[creep]

I know I saw a disk brake kit for 3/4 tons somewhere but can't remember where off-hand. I don't think it had a drop spindle option though. You may be able to swap balljoints for 73-87 units to use drop spindles and disk brakes from that generation. There should be info on that somewhere on these forums.

[jimmydean]

Well, the first issue is the lower control arms on the C20 is different than the C10 and how they mount to the crossmember.

What I am doing for the front of mine is swapping the control arms to a 73+ C10 with discs. You can swap the whole crossmember out of a 73+ and you only have to drill a few more holes in the frame. Then you can get drop spindles for the newer arms on the cheap.

I paid $150 for a complete (minus steering) crossmember and got the power booster/MC with it.

The C10 and C20 frames are very similar, but the rear cab mounts are the biggest issue. You can swap the crap C20 mounts for a set of C10 mounts pretty easy, though. The rest is pretty straight forward.

[defgone]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Well, the first issue is the lower control arms on the C20 is different than the C10 and how they mount to the crossmember.

What I am doing for the front of mine is swapping the control arms to a 73+ C10 with discs. You can swap the whole crossmember out of a 73+ and you only have to drill a few more holes in the frame. Then you can get drop spindles for the newer arms on the cheap.

I paid $150 for a complete (minus steering) crossmember and got the power booster/MC with it.

The C10 and C20 frames are very similar, but the rear cab mounts are the biggest issue. You can swap the crap C20 mounts for a set of C10 mounts pretty easy, though. The rest is pretty straight forward.

read through your build post and it looks like you did not put the 73 stuff on yet...i'm curious as to how it goes...i'll keep watching for updated on your build...thx

[Steve_aka_Violent_J]

I also have a 63 C-20 that i want to put disk brake on. Have you found anything to help in this? I'm leaning towards doing the swap but most info is on the C-10. I willing to spend the money and time to make my truck safer and get rid of those 8 lug drums. I've found nothing that is specific to the c-20. since it is different id like to do it right and not blow my money on unnecessary parts. If you have any links that would help it would be appreciated. Thanks

[Captainfab]

In converting a '63-'66 C20 to either C10 front discs or C20 discs is pretty much the same as for a '63-'66 C10. The main difference is the mounting of the lower control arm. The '63-'66 C20 uses a flat control arm shaft. The '67 and up C20's as well as the C10's use a lower control arm shaft that is round. Consequently there is a saddle on the crossmember to locate and hold the control arm along with the U-bolts. A couple solutions are 1) switch the entire suspension including the crossmember. This just requires drilling 2 holes and elongating 2 holes. Of course this is easiest done without the engine in place. 2) switch the '63-66 C20 lower control arm shaft into a '67 and up C10 or C20 lower control arm. This will work for converting to a C10 or C20 front disc brakes. If you are staying with the 8 lug rotors it may be possible to install the '71-'87 C20 lower ball joint into the '63-'66 lower control arm. I just have not verified that this will work.

One other option to converting a C20 to a 5x5 bolt pattern C10, is to use the '88-'98 C1500 ball joints, spindles, rotors, calipers, etc. Those lower ball joints will fit the '63-'66 C20 lower control arms. Of course you can convert your '63-'66 C20 to a C10 suspension with the 5x5 bolt pattern, by just switch the entire suspension, crossmember and all to a '73-'87 C10.


There is much more info on this in the 'Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread'
That can be found in the FAQ sticky at the top of the page of the '60-'66 section.

[defgone]

yes...what he said...captain fab is the resident guru from what i'm finding out ;-) ...i am swapping out the whole front stub from a mid 70's c-10 for disc and 5lug and power steering...

[Steve_aka_Violent_J]

thanks for the info.im still tossing around buying the spindles versus the swap. I've started a thread on my build. have photos. not sure how to link to my thread tho.

[Steve_aka_Violent_J]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461989

here is a link to my thread.

[defgone]

Update:
found a whole front stub and rear axle from a 75 chevy 1/2 ton suburban




it's from WI so it has a lot of rust...took it all apart the other day and if i never have to do that again it'd be too soon anyways, i dropped off the crossmember, a arms and a few other parts to the media blaster...when i get them back i'll por15 them....ordered static bag set up, step notch, lowered spindles, bushings and a couple other things to get ready for the suspension modification...can't wait

also picked up an offy 4bbl intake and found a rebuildable 390cfm holley for $50...rebuild kit was ordered and arrived today

[Steve_aka_Violent_J]

That's a good start. Cant wait to seen it cleaned up and painted.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461989
Posted via Mobile Device

[ChevyTruckGuy]

Nice

[defgone]

been a while since i posted...not a whole lot of visible progress yet...got all the 70's stuff apart and cleaned up and por15'd...started tearing into the truck and there is a whole lot of rust and rotting....finally found a local set of decent trailing arms to work with as mine where rotted through....i took the cab i picked up to media blaster and had it blast then epoxy coated...i have discovered it is a GMC cab not a chevy

any one know what the differences are if any mounting a GMC 1/2 cab to a chevy C20 frame???

also will there be any other things to be aware of in mounting chevy fenders, inner fenders, etc.?? to this GMC cab??

thanks...will post some pics when there is visible progress...

[defgone]

oh yeah and will my chevy c20 doors and hood fit on the gmc cab???

[chevyrestoguy]

I would think that the Chevy and GMC cab mounts are the same. Actually, I think you'll be surprised at how similar they are. Of course the drivetrains are not the same, but structurally, the dashes are different, the grille, hood, and tailgate are different, but not a whole lot else. Your c20 doors and hood will bolt right on. That's the way GM built stuff back in the day. They were some smart guys to keep the basic structures the same but make simple styling changes to highlight the brand. It makes it so much nicer when you put one back together. Unlike an older Ford, where you had better know what month it was built because they were constantly changing things in the middle of the model year.