12v cummins into 62 c30

[62c30]

So I got a really really good deal on this 1991.5 12 v cummins with a two wheel drive getrag 5 speed. Ive been thinking of doing an LS swap into my c30 but when I ran across this deal I had to buy it. Deal is a have never owned a diesel and don't know a whole lot about them. I was told it was good and has around 180k on it. First question is I would like to run it before I start spending money going in this direction. I have heard they are easy to start outside of a body. What are the steps to make it run? The engine is complete as far as I know other the intercooler and piping.

I already have a complete front suspension from a crew cab 1981 c30 I'm going to swap regardless of diesel or gas. This setup is heavy! Would the big block springs hold the frontend up enough or will a custom set be required? I'll have a ton more questions if and when I start this project which hopefully will be over winter.

[Dieselwrencher]

Awesome score you have there! Yes, you can start that on the floor very easily. I'd put a 6x6 or similar under the oil pan to help keep it stable. Keep the engine hoist chain taunt as well. Check the oil and make sure it looks decent and full. Typically those engines had an oil pressure switch on the LH side behind the power steering pump below the throttle bracket. Unscrew it and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge there. This should be a 1/8" pipe fitting. Next thing, there is a lift pump on the LH side of the engine. It looks similar to what a SBC has just upside down and there is a lever on it. Put a piece of diesel rated hose in a fuel can to the inlet of the lift pump. There is also a return hose that is probably cut around the lift pump area. Put a piece of hose on it and put it in the fuel jug. Make sure to put a clamp on the hoses on the lift pump.

Now you need a really good group 31 battery or group 65 battery. Put a ground on the engine block. These bolt holes are usually 12mm and found under the front gear housing in front. Or on the side of the block by the motor mount holes. Put a battery cable on the starter to the battery. I usually use a starter bump switch to run the starter. You will need a wire with an alligator clip, or take the nut off the fuel shut off solenoid and put a ring terminal on it. The fuel shut off solenoid needs 12v to pull the plunger in the injection pump. The fuel shut off solenoid is on the top rear of the injection pump and is roughly 15/16 sized wrench big. (It's actually metric but this wil give you an idea what you're looking for) It only has one stud coming off it. Don't bolt the other end to the battery or put a toggle switch in between the battery and FSS so you can shut the engine off.

Now, take the lift pump lever and push it up and down 10 or so times until you hear or feel a difference. Apply power to the FSS and push pull the lever 10 more times. Make sure there is nothing blocking the turbo out let, inlet, and engine intake. Put 12v to the s terminal of the starter and crank it. If it has been setting for a while or someone has taken the fuel lines off you may need to loosen the line nuts at the injectors and bleed the air out. Just crack the nuts loose and when fuel begins to spray out tighten them. Once you do this it should fire up. If not, you may have to put power to the grid heater for 10 seconds or so to get it to go.

Also make sure the trans has fluid in it before attempting to fire the engine up.

C30 springs will hold it just fine too. Those are really good engines. Those transmissions are alright but make sure you fill it 1 qt over the stock fill line to make sure it lives a long life.

[62c30]

I know it has sat for at least 2 years. Does it matter if the turbo is hooked up to start it? I would assume not but figured I would ask. If it starts and sounds good I'll probably do the killer dowel pin kit and maybe some gaskets and then clean up some and paint it. I'm looking to make a good work truck out of it not make a ton of power, just something with good mileage and reliability. I've had the truck for over 10 years and has been a very good truck so it's kinda hard to take it apart to do this conversion. The front end is wore out and the brakes suck so plan is to rebuild the 1981 frontend and get everything I can lined up so I can get the thing done. Anything else besides the kdp I should take care of while it's out and accessible?

[gmc684x4]

Nice score makes me miss my 11 ram 3500 with 6.7 cummins

I was looking at a new chevy before i bought the ram chevy stoped making a stick shift in almost everything cept sports cars

I have a 62 k20 in my collection was my dads step fathers truck your giving me ideas what to do with it

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 62c30

I know it has sat for at least 2 years. Does it matter if the turbo is hooked up to start it? I would assume not but figured I would ask. If it starts and sounds good I'll probably do the killer dowel pin kit and maybe some gaskets and then clean up some and paint it. I'm looking to make a good work truck out of it not make a ton of power, just something with good mileage and reliability. I've had the truck for over 10 years and has been a very good truck so it's kinda hard to take it apart to do this conversion. The front end is wore out and the brakes suck so plan is to rebuild the 1981 frontend and get everything I can lined up so I can get the thing done. Anything else besides the kdp I should take care of while it's out and accessible?

The turbo outlet doesn't have to be hooked to the engine inlet just make sure dirt and objects aren't near either. As long as the oil feed line is still on the turbo and the return is on you'll be fine.

Yes, I'd replace all the gaskets including the head gasket and valve seals. Thise early gaskets are known for getting extremely hard and causing failures. Best to just do it while its out. Id put a 3k govoner spring in the injection pump, advance the timing, and put a little larger injector in it too. A HX35W off a 95-02 Dodge will help quite a bit too. If you need parts or part numbers/info let me know and I'll help you out.

[62c30]

Thank you I appreciate all the advice. I am going to try and start it in the next few days and see what happens.

Is there a way to prime the engine? I am used to pulling a distributor. Gaskets aren'tas expensive as I thought they would be but what the hell is the deal on head bolt or stud prices????? Last set of arp head bolts I bought were for sbf and it was under $100.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 62c30

Thank you I appreciate all the advice. I am going to try and start it in the next few days and see what happens.

Is there a way to prime the engine? I am used to pulling a distributor. Gaskets aren'tas expensive as I thought they would be but what the hell is the deal on head bolt or stud prices????? Last set of arp head bolts I bought were for sbf and it was under $100.

The only way to prime the engine would be through the oil pressure sending unit port with a pressurized container. The oil pump is located under the water pump inside the gear housing and is driven off the crank. You have to modify an oil pump to prime fresh engines.

They have 26 studs in a box and they all are 12mm. 20 of them are pretty long as well. They definitely aren't as cheap as gas stuff. Plus the gas ones probably sell double the amount or triple and I'm sure that plays into the price.

[62c30]

I messed with it for a short time this evening. I was going to chain it above to the tractor bucket so it would be a little more secure, but the tractor needs a new battery. It did leak so fuel out of where the fuel shut off is and somewhere around the pump. I’ll look a little closer tomorrow or this weekend. It did try to start but it started to shake a little more than I felt comfortable with so I’ll wait and use the tractor just in case.