Tri-Plus full floor pan review

[freak]

I'm restoring my 72 fleetside and decided to install a full floor pan. A lot of people mentioned the AMD pan at Jegs and that's what I ordered. Jegs sells on Amazon and that is where I ordered it. I think it was something like a dollar cheaper than the Jegs site. Anyway... it came quick... just a couple of days. Had it shipped to work so I wouldn't miss the delivery since it was by truck. I took a bunch of photos and measurements and am going to post those along with my observations. I've started the install but will not go over that in this thread. At some point I will start a new one for that.

I ordered http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Metal-Direct-400-4067-S...
Here is the box it came in with the labels.




The pan arrived with two forklift gashes in the box and the driver had me inspect it for damage. There was none so I accepted it.



This was the packing and there was slight damage to one of the supports but it was minimal.



New vs old:



The nut for the retractable seat belt mounted by the door is slightly larger on original floor.




The nut for the non-retractable side of the seat belt is totally missing a large flange on the new pan. I'll bet that testing showed that nut pulling through the floor in a crash so GM put that large flange on it. Kind of wish that was there!



This is the center section right beneath the center of the seat. Not sure what the depressions are for on the new pan and it is missing a hole. I'm sure that's because it fits a range of years.



My truck doesn't have a floor mounted gas pedal but this pan has a place for one.


Close up of the inner rocker. Mine were totally missing!!!


Metal thickness or gauge. Because there are different gauge charts and some are rounded I will deal in actual measurements. This is a comparison between the pan thickness new first then old. The new one measures slightly thicker. About .053 vs .049.



Sticker on the pan itself.


This is a comparison of the new vs old z-brace that runs on each side from front to rear. The old one measures thicker in this case. About .094 vs .078.



Close up of the seat mounts.



Here is a comparison of the hole where a cab mount sits. The old one is put together much flatter using spot welds vs mig welded. My guess is the manufacturer can't spot weld this gauge very well.



Close up of front and rear pillar mount area.



This is probably my biggest complaint. The transmission hump obviously isn't stamping correctly and they know it. You can see where they manually tried to stretch the metal to make the hump higher. (It still doesn't fit right but that's another thread)


Overall I'm happy I did it. It's a big job but the end result will be much better than patching everything. Hope you learned something.

Can't send it back now!!!

[hugger6933]

If the hump is bothering you int might be a good time to convert to a high hump. I think they look more truckish with the high hump anyway. That part looks good. I may need one on one of my builds. Most of my 5 will do with just the cab "kit" that is out now. Jim

[freak]

The problem is that the edge by the hump does not meet the edge of the firewall. I had to do a lot of heating and hammering. There's another thread with a guy who had the same problem.

[chewychevy67]

The depressions Under the seat are for the lug wrench and jack arm storage on a 67 only. I believe if you want to mount a 69 72 style console that needs to be smoothed out.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

Looks like a nice piece and far better that trying to fix the old. Cant wait for install link

[Redline novdog]

Thanks for the info. interesting! good thread!

[57larry]

keep us posted on the install. thanks