Pulling distributor....I got an idea. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 07-12-2002, 01:36 PM

I got everyting ready to swap manifolds. I was thinking yesterday about the distributor, and how to pull it and replace it without loosing my timing. In other words I want the distributor to go back in in EXACTLY the same place it was when I pulled it. Since I haven't done this before EVER I started brainstorming.

Why not take a straight edge, and lay it across the distributor in between the terminals (mark the terminals of course) so that it points to a spot on the firewall, and then just make a mark on the firewall with some white wax pencil or something? That way when I put the distributor back in I just put the straight-edge back where it was and move the distributor until it lines up with the mark?!? Good idea? I think so.

If not please correct my fuzzy math.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-12-2002, 02:05 PM

I do the same thing but use tape. Also remeber the distributor will turn slightly when you take it out. So when you put it back in start with a slight turn and it will rotate back to where it was.

HuggerCST · 07-12-2002, 02:11 PM

That's what I do too, and also mark the base of the dist. at the intake, so you will be close on the timing setting.

tom hand · 07-12-2002, 02:22 PM

Don't be chicken!!!!!! Pull the spark wires off without marking them. Pull the distributor without looking at which way the rotor is pointed. Now you have no choice but to learn how to time a motor. Once you ever learn how, it takes less time than marking all that stuff. Good Luck

**COBALT** · 07-12-2002, 03:48 PM

Um...I know how to time a motor. Specifically, I know how to time this one and it was a huge pain in the ass. I don't want to screw with it again for a while, and I just did it a couple of weeks ago.

Problem is the 327 manifold on this 350 is difficult to balance without a horrible hesitation. I had to advance it quite a bit to get it accelerating smooth.

Thanks. Nice to know my ideas aren't totally dumb.

Sinister · 07-12-2002, 03:48 PM

i'll second that...
dude, get a timing light...

**COBALT** · 07-12-2002, 03:54 PM

Like I just said. Dude, I got one.

greasemonkey · 07-12-2002, 04:01 PM

Dude, that's good.

Longhorn Man · 07-12-2002, 05:08 PM

I mark mine to the manifold, or in your case, to the fire wall, then i also mak the rotor to the distributer body once it had turned.
Then I line up the rotor to the mark, drop it in, and line up the other mark.
Don't even need to get out the T-light.

RipMeyer · 07-12-2002, 06:49 PM

IMHO your spending more time then it would take to time it.
But that was not your question and the suggestions given seem to be your answer.

**COBALT** · 07-12-2002, 06:59 PM

Well, my real issue is that I spent forever trying to get good timing on this engine even with a timing gun on #1 wire. I know I could get it back, but I'd rather have a simple mark that saves me the trouble of trying to find out where that magical spot is on the damper that allows good solid acceleration without hesitation (which is what I had at 8 degrees -- where it was initially set). Now it's as far advanced as I can get away with, and it seems to be performing very well. Any more advance and my engine won't idle very well. Any less and my engine wants to hesitate badly when I give it stiff throttle...

I'm sure if I had a good intake/engine combo in the first place I wouldn't have this problem. Since I'm swapping identical intakes it seems logical that my timing would be exactly the same, but we'll see...

tom hand · 07-12-2002, 07:25 PM

Well maybe this will make you feel better. I have had at least 20 smallblock Chevys, and out of the 20 I have had maybe 3 that you could set on 8 degrees btdc and they would run right. Most of them I have had to advance the timing till it was completely off the timing tab to get them to run right. Now most of these motors were used and who knows what kind of mismatched parts I was dealing with, but it has got me to the point where I don't even use a timing light. I aways just advance the timing till it "pings" under full throttle, then retard it till it just stops. If the starter doesn't kickback with this setting thats how I run it. I bet my timing light has 2" of dust on it. lol

**COBALT** · 07-12-2002, 07:38 PM

lol

Yeah, that sounds about what I'm dealing with. The mark is literally 3" left of the indicator strip at least. I finally gave up on the light after a while, and just turned the distrubutor until I got good acceleration. Then I ran out of room, so I had to move the plugs over one terminal so the vaccum advance wasn't sitting against the manifold, and repeated the process of getting good timing.

THEN I went and checked it with the timing gun to see where the marked ended up. Damn, it was almost on the passenger's side of the damper.

Sinister · 07-12-2002, 08:05 PM

well, perdon moi,
that's how people who don't speak mexican talk in L.A ...

lukecp · 07-12-2002, 08:43 PM

The 350 in my truck runs the best at 11 degrees BTDC. I tried to advance it to 12, but i got a spark knock when pulling hills. What kind of a intake/carb are you swapping on to your motor?

Sinister · 07-12-2002, 08:58 PM

i found on my 72, if you advance the pi$$ out of it, like pass the timing marker around 9 or 10'clock, that it was quicker off the line, but i couldn't get any top end, only to about 100 mph...
i backed it off to about 12-15 degrees, so i can bury the speedo...

P.S. that's how people talk down here dude...

Super Chevy · 07-12-2002, 11:04 PM

DUDE! whats mine say?!?

TheMattMan · 07-12-2002, 11:08 PM

SWEET!!! What's mine say?

Super Chevy · 07-12-2002, 11:36 PM

DUDE!!

Blue_71 · 07-13-2002, 12:29 AM

DUDE!! Wheres my truck?

Sinister · 07-13-2002, 01:58 AM

that's exactly how people are here it's scary...

07-12-2002, 02:05 PM	#2
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I do the same thing but use tape. Also remeber the distributor will turn slightly when you take it out. So when you put it back in start with a slight turn and it will rotate back to where it was. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-12-2002, 02:11 PM	#3
HuggerCST Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: North Louisiana Posts: 4,501	That's what I do too, and also mark the base of the dist. at the intake, so you will be close on the timing setting. __________________ Wynne 70 CST short fleet Hugger orange & white, 350/350, ps, pb, air, tilt, tach/vac/speedwarning, original buckets, AM/FM, oak bed floor, shoulder belts, 3.5"/5.5" drop, 20" American Racing VN425s. Build thread 53 Chevy shortbed 69 Camaro Click here to subscribe Chevy GMC International Truck Club Louisiana Charter Member http://www.louisianaclassictruckclub.com

07-12-2002, 02:22 PM	#4
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Don't be chicken!!!!!! Pull the spark wires off without marking them. Pull the distributor without looking at which way the rotor is pointed. Now you have no choice but to learn how to time a motor. Once you ever learn how, it takes less time than marking all that stuff. Good Luck __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

07-12-2002, 03:48 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Um...I know how to time a motor. Specifically, I know how to time this one and it was a huge pain in the ass. I don't want to screw with it again for a while, and I just did it a couple of weeks ago. Problem is the 327 manifold on this 350 is difficult to balance without a horrible hesitation. I had to advance it quite a bit to get it accelerating smooth. Thanks. Nice to know my ideas aren't totally dumb. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-12-2002, 03:48 PM	#6
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	i'll second that... dude, get a timing light... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

07-12-2002, 01:36 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Pulling distributor....I got an idea. I got everyting ready to swap manifolds. I was thinking yesterday about the distributor, and how to pull it and replace it without loosing my timing. In other words I want the distributor to go back in in EXACTLY the same place it was when I pulled it. Since I haven't done this before EVER I started brainstorming. Why not take a straight edge, and lay it across the distributor in between the terminals (mark the terminals of course) so that it points to a spot on the firewall, and then just make a mark on the firewall with some white wax pencil or something? That way when I put the distributor back in I just put the straight-edge back where it was and move the distributor until it lines up with the mark?!? Good idea? I think so. If not please correct my fuzzy math. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-12-2002, 03:54 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Like I just said. Dude, I got one. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-12-2002, 04:01 PM	#8
greasemonkey Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Pace, FL Posts: 2,155	Dude, that's good. __________________ 1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500

07-12-2002, 05:08 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I mark mine to the manifold, or in your case, to the fire wall, then i also mak the rotor to the distributer body once it had turned. Then I line up the rotor to the mark, drop it in, and line up the other mark. Don't even need to get out the T-light.

07-12-2002, 06:49 PM	#10
RipMeyer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Southern New Mexico Posts: 649	IMHO your spending more time then it would take to time it. But that was not your question and the suggestions given seem to be your answer.

07-12-2002, 06:59 PM	#11
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, my real issue is that I spent forever trying to get good timing on this engine even with a timing gun on #1 wire. I know I could get it back, but I'd rather have a simple mark that saves me the trouble of trying to find out where that magical spot is on the damper that allows good solid acceleration without hesitation (which is what I had at 8 degrees -- where it was initially set). Now it's as far advanced as I can get away with, and it seems to be performing very well. Any more advance and my engine won't idle very well. Any less and my engine wants to hesitate badly when I give it stiff throttle... I'm sure if I had a good intake/engine combo in the first place I wouldn't have this problem. Since I'm swapping identical intakes it seems logical that my timing would be exactly the same, but we'll see... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-12-2002, 07:25 PM	#12
tom hand CCRider Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA Posts: 2,232	Well maybe this will make you feel better. I have had at least 20 smallblock Chevys, and out of the 20 I have had maybe 3 that you could set on 8 degrees btdc and they would run right. Most of them I have had to advance the timing till it was completely off the timing tab to get them to run right. Now most of these motors were used and who knows what kind of mismatched parts I was dealing with, but it has got me to the point where I don't even use a timing light. I aways just advance the timing till it "pings" under full throttle, then retard it till it just stops. If the starter doesn't kickback with this setting thats how I run it. I bet my timing light has 2" of dust on it. lol __________________ 72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS

07-12-2002, 07:38 PM	#13
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	lol Yeah, that sounds about what I'm dealing with. The mark is literally 3" left of the indicator strip at least. I finally gave up on the light after a while, and just turned the distrubutor until I got good acceleration. Then I ran out of room, so I had to move the plugs over one terminal so the vaccum advance wasn't sitting against the manifold, and repeated the process of getting good timing. THEN I went and checked it with the timing gun to see where the marked ended up. Damn, it was almost on the passenger's side of the damper. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-12-2002, 08:05 PM	#14
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	well, perdon moi, that's how people who don't speak mexican talk in L.A ... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

07-12-2002, 08:43 PM	#15
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	The 350 in my truck runs the best at 11 degrees BTDC. I tried to advance it to 12, but i got a spark knock when pulling hills. What kind of a intake/carb are you swapping on to your motor? __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg



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07-12-2002, 08:58 PM	#16
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	i found on my 72, if you advance the pi$$ out of it, like pass the timing marker around 9 or 10'clock, that it was quicker off the line, but i couldn't get any top end, only to about 100 mph... i backed it off to about 12-15 degrees, so i can bury the speedo... P.S. that's how people talk down here dude... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

07-12-2002, 11:04 PM	#17
Super Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,025	DUDE! whats mine say?!?

07-12-2002, 11:08 PM	#18
TheMattMan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lumberton, TX , USA Posts: 71	SWEET!!! What's mine say?

07-12-2002, 11:36 PM	#19
Super Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,025	DUDE!!

07-13-2002, 01:58 AM	#21
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	that's exactly how people are here it's scary... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

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