No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

OE set-ups have short bars w/the PHB mount on the housing. The better 'long' aftermarket set-ups like this one move the mount to the Pass side truck arm @ the back.

Thanks. It seems like now the decision is between this setup and going 4 link... Really only looking for good ride quality, decent hole shot (though my truck is no longer primarily about going fast in a straight line), and to lower it another 2" or so (total of about 4" of drop).

What would you suggest? Im shying away from the OE style trailing arms (ECE) due to the panhard bar issue. The driverside leaf shackles are bound and only articulate about 1". I'm even considering just replacing bushings, etc and adding some drop shackles and caltracs.

I have access to a full metal shop though I wouldnt trust my own welds on the dragstrip .. could tack things in place and have a guy with a cert finish up for me.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Thanks. It seems like now the decision is between this setup and going 4 link... Really only looking for good ride quality, decent hole shot (though my truck is no longer primarily about going fast in a straight line), and to lower it another 2" or so (total of about 4" of drop).

What would you suggest? Im shying away from the OE style trailing arms (ECE) due to the panhard bar issue. The driverside leaf shackles are bound and only articulate about 1". I'm even considering just replacing bushings, etc and adding some drop shackles and caltracs.

I have access to a full metal shop though I wouldnt trust my own welds on the dragstrip .. could tack things in place and have a guy with a cert finish up for me.

If you're swapping from leafs to one of these 2 choices (4-bar or T/A), it's a wash if using an aftermarket kit (since they're within a couple hundred bucks of each other). If you're trying to get a better ride on a leaf spring suspended 63-72 & have a small budget, a used T/A set-up can be done fairly cheaply & provide very good results.

[crakarjax]

Aren't there alignment holes in all frames from the factory? If so those could be used. For the notches though, I think it might be best to just see where your axle hits the frame and use that point as a reference.

[Cbo]

Any updates on install with aftermarket crossmembers? Also, I'm having a bit of trouble with my install. (I'll post pics when I get them tomm morning)

Everything seems pretty straight forward, but after bolting in my new trailing arms mounts, I can't my trailing arms sandwiched in between the tabs to bolt them in.it almost looks like theyre a quarter inch or so too wide to fit...

[meenaggie]

I will give you my experience and what I did . . . as well as some options I considered. First, my truck is a 1968 Chevy C10 SWB. The previous owner had lowered the truck and installed a ECE (Early Classic Enterprises) trailing arm cross member. I replaced the front and rear suspension with a No Limit Wide Ride IFS and trailing arm setup. At the same time I installed the No Limit rear notch kit.

I think you already understand but allow me to go into the details for others who may read this post. The No Limit trailing arm setup is designed to use the stock trailing arm cross member. The stock trailing arm cross member has angled sections where the trailing attaches that create the angle between the front and rear mounting points. This means the brackets provided by No Limit for the front mount of the trailing arms are STRAIGHT. Most of the aftermarket trailing arm cross members are completely straight across and create the angle in the front mount bracket itself. Meaning the aftermarket brackets are angled and not straight. This becomes an issue as the heavy duty front joint of the No Limit trailing arms is slightly narrower in width and uses a smaller diameter through bolt than stock. Hence you cannot simply bolt the bracket provided by No Limit to your ECE cross member. Nor can you simply bolt the No Limit trailing arm front joint to the ECE bracket.

To solve this issue and retain the ECE cross member I decided to have some bushings machined to account for the differences. (I did not have a stock cross member available and did not want to go source one as I planned on running the exhaust through the cross member.) I have attached several pictures showing how they install and dimensions. I used oiled bronze for the bushing as I was able to start with some flanged bushing from Lowe’s rather than a piece of bar stock. I had a friend do me a favor to get the machining done and do not have personal access to a lathe. So unfortunately I cannot make these for other folks.

If you don’t want to go that route here are some other solutions I considered.

1. Source an OEM trailing cross member and replace the ECE cross member I already had installed. The No Limit brackets will bolt right on (after you remove a bunch of rivets.)

2. Make new brackets the same width and hole size as No Limit but with the angle needed. Basically this is creating a hybrid of the ECE and No Limit bracket. You need some mild fabrication skills including access to a welder and drill (or drill press).

3. Weld the No Limit brackets at an angle to the ECE cross member. You will need to make a wedge and spacer on one side to make this work.
I hope that info helps.

[meenaggie]

More pics showing dimensions of bushings

[meenaggie]

And a couple more pics just because . . .

[meenaggie]

And an example of the stock cross member and ECE cross member so you can get a better understanding of the difference in the way the angle for the trailing arms is created.

[Cbo]

See that o ly part of my problem.i have a stock crossmembers with No Limits brackets bolted in. The new trailing arms from No Limit appears to be too wide to fit in between the bracket in order to be bolted in.

I'm looking at spreading the bracket with a hydraulic spreader,bit I'd like to avoid that if possible.

[drfloyd]

So, No Limit brackets are too narrow for their arms?

[Cbo]

Yes,exactly.

[meenaggie]

Originally Posted by Cbo

Yes,exactly.

So I measured the brackets from No Limit I have and they are 2-5/8" (plus or minus 25 thousandths) wide from inside edge to inside edge.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Cbo

Yes,exactly.

Please give me a call with dimensions. If we sent you incorrect brackets we will send new ones. 865-940-1503

[Cbo]

Hey @robnolimit it was no big deal. I had a friend with a porto-power help me spread them the 1/16 or 1/8 inch I needed to get them in. I appreciate it though!

[moregrip]

excellent solution! do you expect those bushings will be a wear item?

[meenaggie]

Originally Posted by moregrip

excellent solution! do you expect those bushings will be a wear item?

Thanks for the compliment. I had them made from oil-impregnated bronze in an effort to make them "self-lubricating". I also put some synthetic grease on them during assembly for good measure and to help hold them in place. I am not expecting them to be a wear item based on the truck's limited use (i.e. not a daily driver), but I will keep on eye on them when I go to grease the trailing arm end joint.

[Rickjz]

The thread that never dies!!! I installed the trailing arm kit on my 71 Blazer. What do you do about the coil over spring being loose when you jack up the vehicle?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Rickjz

The thread that never dies!!! I installed the trailing arm kit on my 71 Blazer. What do you do about the coil over spring being loose when you jack up the vehicle?

Assuming you’ve got the ride height set where you want it, you could:

- add a lowering block between the trailing arm and axle
- move the upper coilover mount up
- use a shorter coilover shock body
- haul a couple hundred pounds of gravel

[Rickjz]

Gringoloco, you have had some nice rides! This is what I have so far. I think that a shorter shock is the best option. I plan on lowering it as far as I can without floor/frame interference.

[Cbo]

@robnolimit

So, the rest of the kit went on fine,and looks great. I went ahead and ordered your C-notch kit so that will be the next step for me,as I installed 2inch blocks with the kit,just like you guys did on your shop Truck. One more question though.

Did you guys have to add a shim or use angled lowering blocks? I'm really not digging the driveshaft angle coming from the rear...

[Cbo]

@robnolimit nothing on using angled shims?

[NoLimitCody]

Hello guys,

We've updated some of our instructions for some of our kits to make all of our products more understandable and user friendly.

In addition to the Trailing Arm Kit we also offer the 63-72 Panhard Bar kit and 63-72 Shock Relocation Kit separately to fit the original trailing arms and frame. For those interested here they are, they will also be available on the website shortly.

[NoLimitCody]

continued...

[NoLimitCody]

Continued again....

[SierraMtns]

NoLimitCody,

I feel special you guys used my pictures in your instructions. lol