Plus Five

[donandal]

half round rubber pads for the stop,
front pivot bushings...

[donandal]

just enough clearance...

[oldman3]

Very nice...Jim

[ricott]

I love everything about your build. Your attention to detail, and willingness to modify and/or fabricate parts is what I think hot rodding is all about.

I have a question about your windshield wiper setup. In Post 142 it appears that you used Ford Escort splined shafts and transmission arms for your starting point, is that correct? Also, in Post 143 are those wiper arms from a Ford Escort also?

I have a 1966 GTO that my college son and I restomodded using a 6.0 LS type engine and six speed manual transmission (it is in the link below ). We have driven the car over 30,000 miles and now it is time for some upgrades. I used the same wipe motor you used, and with some work, it works great. The wiper transmission arms and "old style" wiper transmissions are noisy and have a fair amount of slop and need to be upgraded. I was considering using parts from a newer S-10, but your setup looks to be perfect for my GTO.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ricky

[donandal]

Originally Posted by ricott

I love everything about your build. Your attention to detail, and willingness to modify and/or fabricate parts is what I think hot rodding is all about.

I have a question about your windshield wiper setup. In Post 142 it appears that you used Ford Escort splined shafts and transmission arms for your starting point, is that correct? Also, in Post 143 are those wiper arms from a Ford Escort also?

I have a 1966 GTO that my college son and I restomodded using a 6.0 LS type engine and six speed manual transmission (it is in the link below ). We have driven the car over 30,000 miles and now it is time for some upgrades. I used the same wipe motor you used, and with some work, it works great. The wiper transmission arms and "old style" wiper transmissions are noisy and have a fair amount of slop and need to be upgraded. I was considering using parts from a newer S-10, but your setup looks to be perfect for my GTO.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ricky

Thanks,

I really enjoy making parts.

As for the wiper setup, I'll have to check my notebook when I get back home. I'm out of town for the rest of the week. I think the splined arms that hold the wipers are from the rear of a couple Ford escort hatchbacks.

The splined shafts had to be turned down on the lathe to fit inside the original cowl bushings. The rest of it, transmission, arms with the sockets, mounts and linkages have all been modified or made from scratch.

I'll try to find more info later in the week.

Don

[RockinKees]

That flipfront is just a piece of art!!
Realy nice!!

[donandal]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

That flipfront is just a piece of art!!
Realy nice!!

Thanks,

I think it will look a little better when I get the fenders and hood
back on and it's working. I'm going to try to make a video of that later,
if I can get my son to help me.

I've been on the road for the last five days, but I have some time
off now so I should get a little done.

[solidaxel]

Can you say P C V inlet!!

[donandal]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Can you say P C V inlet!!

I could....

but I'll stick with what the experts that built it call it.

This is copied from my instructions.

This port should be connected to filtered clean air. This connection must be within the engines air cleaner system and must be between the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) and engine’s throttle body. The engine burns the air that enters the PCV system so, if the fresh air port is prior to the MAF then, this air will enter the engine without being measured by the MAF and adverse engine operation may occur.

[donandal]

I mounted the transmission cooler and power steering
cooler. Also made up the hard lines, so just flex lines to go,
then on to the electrical system.

[donandal]

here's the transmission cooler,

[donandal]

Well,
today I put together the braided stainless flex lines for the power steering
and transmission.

What a pain in the ...

The instructions say to wrap black tape tight around the area to be cut, then cut thru the tape with a cut-off wheel. For the fuel lines, this worked great. For the powerflex and speed flex hose it started to unravel as soon as it was cut. The plastic coated braided stainless also swelled just enough that it wouldn't slip thru either.

I fooled around with different methods, then settled on a .020 aluminum wrapped around and hose clamped. I cut the hose right next to the aluminum sleeve while the hose clamp was tight. Then I loosened it just enough to slide and gave it a quick push and it slipped thru the fitting just fine, and no unraveling.

Glad that job is finished!

[Advanced Design]

Good solution. This is pretty handy. http://www.koultools.com/ANHoseAssemblyTools.html

[donandal]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Good solution. This is pretty handy. http://www.koultools.com/ANHoseAssemblyTools.html

That looks pretty slick.

Have you ever used it with teflon hoses like speedflex or powerflex ?

[donandal]

I mounted a few pieces in the cab. On the passenger side is a vent and mount for the engine computer. I also painted the floor with tractor enamel to seal it all up, before mat and sound deadening go on.

Also mounted the solenoid/relay? for the tilt mechanism and the flex lines on the power steering.

[donandal]

I had a little trouble with the fittings for the transmission lines. I am replacing the quick connect fittings with AN-6 adapters. I ordered the ones from Summit Racing that are used on 700R4 and various others, but the transmission threads were a little bigger diameter on my 4L65E.

I called Summit, and they checked the part # and thought it should fit. They didn't show anything else that was listed for a 4L65E.

I called Pace performance, and they knew immediately which fitting I needed. The 700R4 has a 1/4 STRAIGHT pipe thread, while the newer 4L65E uses a 9/16-18 straight thread. Pace gave me the part number.

I called Summit and explained all of this, and they were AWESOME!!!!
They sent me the two correct fittings FREE, and no shipping charges either!

So, tomorrow I'll finish those two lines also.

[Iplumb]

FYI - Easy on the teflon on those an x male adapters. I have been told many a trans case has been cracked with to much teflon and over tightening.

Looks Great

Mike

[donandal]

Originally Posted by Iplumb

FYI - Easy on the teflon on those an x male adapters. I have been told many a trans case has been cracked with to much teflon and over tightening.

Looks Great

Mike

Thanks Mike,
these came with a little O-ring so I just used that, and torqued them to
28 lb-ft.
Finally, all of my lines are finished on the truck!

[donandal]

My Vintage Air has an adjustable thermostat for the coolant water temp that controls the second fan. (along with the trinary switch). I made a little case for mounting it, along with this cover. When the engine is running I'll set the temperature, and then paint one of the dots red to indicate the correct position.

[donandal]

I also re-installed the Air conditioner under the dash.
The unit seems pretty nice, but none of the mounts
seemed to fit well, so I made my own.

[donandal]

I also made this escutcheon plate for the lines thru the firewall.

I couldn't deal with the cheap plastic one that cmae with it.

[Advanced Design]

Really nice work donandal. Is the VA one of their direct fit units?

The escutcheon plate you made is a definite improvement over the provided one.

[donandal]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Really nice work donandal. Is the VA one of their direct fit units?

The escutcheon plate you made is a definite improvement over the provided one.

Yeah,
It is the direct fit for the 47-53 truck.
It fits fine in there, a little tight , but fine.
the brackets are kinda crappy though.

I made similar plates for the wiring to pass thru the firewall also.

Thanks!

[donandal]

I received my wiring harness a couple of days ago...
Pretty quick!

I started some preliminary installation tasks.
I made a mount for the fuse panel under the dash near the
driver's kick panel.

I need to paint it flat black, then get to figuring out the wiring.
I expect that to take quite a long time.

[donandal]

OK,
I'm on a layover with some free time...
I don't think American Autowire is open at this hour so I'll ask here.
My wiring instructions have a couple of heavy red wires going to the large Positive stud on the starter solenoid.
[It also has the purple wire for the solenoid from the key going to the solenoid (S) spot on the starter solenoid.] There is also a separate heavy red positive feed from the battery positive terminal to the engine compartment fuse panel as part of the GM wiring package.

With the American Auto wire harness, one of the red wires has a brown fuse-link and connects to "under-dash starter connection plug" at the fuse panel.

The other red wire has a blue fuse-link and runs from the solenoid positive to the alternator output stud.

The fuse links ends connect at the solenoid end according to the instructions. That makes sense to protect the wires.

My question is this. Are the two red connections at the solenoid end connected there, rather than the positive battery post, simply for convenience?

Would there be any harm connecting these two to the battery post instead? My engine has very limited space near the starter.

The starter would then just have the direct connection from the large stud to the battery positive post and a connection for the key at the solenoid (S) small stud.

Thanks.