More paint issues

[mongocanfly]

I painted my doors the other night..started wet sanding today..I knew I had some paint nibs ..when I started with 2000g, the nibs rolled out and left the price er visible.now I'm faced with a repaint..what would be the best way to fill in the "holes" where the nibs were?..
They're very small but very visible..

[HAULIN' IT]

Are you sure those aren't fish eyes that are now filled with clearcoat sanding sludge? I see what sure looks like fish eyes in both of those pictures. The only reason it matters is what you fill them with. I would start with a toothpick & a dab of water to see if you can move the "white spot". If so, mix up a bit of clear (with the catalyst) & use a toothpick & drop a little in each one. Its better to apply in a couple applications than make a BIG high mess. The goal is to make the spot just high to the surface & then scrape over lightly with a razor blade & then sand down.
If that is indeed paint "pulled-out", apply some Red with a toothpick & then go to the clear. Good Luck, Lorne

[mongocanfly]

Thanks Lorne..!..you may be on to something...I took a tooth brush and a Qtip and cleaned those spots..
The 3 in the one pic were indeed sanding sludge..the one by itself never would clean out..it was the biggest one on the door..heres a couple more pics after cleaning with a toothbrush for size reference..
I did sand on the door some more between the 1st and 2nd set of pics
And I'm using single stage paint...

[nsb29]

What kind of filters do you have and do you use a last resort filter at the gun?

[mongocanfly]

I have 2 water separators and a filter between my main airline and the airline to the gun..( I may need to replace all that..its getting some age on it)...I also had a small inline moisture trap at the gun also but it was cracked and I never replaced it..with the high humidity we usually have it can be a issue
I had another paint guy recommend that I add some fish eye eliminator to the paint and that would help..

[nsb29]

I have never used it but have been told once you use it in your shop you have to Always use it?? I use a TP filter on my last 25 foot of hose And I never use that hose with out it and a last resort at the gun and I change them regularly that’s not counting my water separator I drain my tank before I start if that was a drop off moisture the fish won’t fix it

[HAULIN' IT]

Good Deal! I agree with nsb, I would NOT use fisheye eliminator! Find the source of the contamination & fix that.

On to fixing the fisheyes you have in the photos. Mix up some paint/catalyst & place some in the pit. As I mentioned...a little at a time is better than a big bump. It takes some "practice" to get it right, but they can be nearly invisible once scraped off & sanded.
Also, until you have fixed your oil/silicone problem...re-painting could just lead to more of the same. Lorne

[mongocanfly]

Thanks guys..!!...I'm gonna replace everything from my shop hose to the gun...new filters,reg, and hoses..and I'll get another inline filter to use at the gun
I'll try the paint dab in those spots and see how it goes...
What kinda of ratio do I need to mix the paint and catalist?...go by the spec sheet? But without reducer

[HAULIN' IT]

Yes, That is what I do. Have you been having fisheye problems all along, or is this something that just now showed up?
There are MANY other things that can lead to fisheyes besides the air hose. In fact, I would put that down my list quite a ways of likely the cause. Airborne silicone (tire shine, armor-all, ect) #1 answer. My Two Cents, Lorne

[mongocanfly]

Lorne, I've had a few here and there...some stuff I've done I had none...
but on the doors it was the worse..and I didnt see any till about the 3rd coat I put down...
I've never used any silicone products in the shop...not sure if I even have any..
I'm doing this in my temp paint booth I built inside the shop..so I'm not sure where the stuff is coming from..but my filters are getting some age on them so I'll change them for sure..
All I've got left to paint is the cab, so if I can get past that without catastrophe I'll be ok..
I know the paint wont be perfect , and I'm good with that...I'd just like to get better than what im doing..
I plan on driving this truck quite a bit so I know the paint will take a beating..

[mongocanfly]

I got me 2 new moisture traps...I took the old ones apart and the 1st thing I noticed is they were bone dry..that's very odd given our humidty... many times my blow nozzles coming off the main shop airlines ,look like water hoses..and I have traps at each hose reel...
Also noticed the elements were chalky..so I think replacing them will help some..but I may not be outta the woods yet..

[Richard]

Seeing as you are using single stage paint why not brush touch the defects and color sand? Nothing to loose as you will have to sand down and repaint anyways. Had a few "nibs" as you call them in my paint. Painters booth is old. Touch up turned out satisfactory to me.

[mongocanfly]

that's what I'm gonna try Richard ,,,

[nsb29]

If this didn’t show up till the 3rd coat it definitely came from your system do like Richard drop some paint on it and sand it out I had to laugh at the fire hose living in Florida I have the same problem

[projectking]

Your moisture trap should be a as far down the line as possible to actually give the air a chance to cool down and condensate. 50’ before the separator is ideal, I plumbed a “snake” with everything pitching back towards the tank to gain the needed footage.

[mongocanfly]

It's close to 100ft of pipe and hose between the moisture traps and compressor..then about 35-40ft of hose between the traps and the paint gun..

[projectking]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

It's close to 100ft of pipe and hose between the moisture traps and compressor..then about 35-40ft of hose between the traps and the paint gun..

Interesting, do you have the drops piped properly out the top and down?

[mongocanfly]

Yep...sure do have drops...4 total..the thing is our humidity...kinda hard to believe unless you've lived it...
That's why I had 2 moisture traps back2back on my painting setup..and a inline trap at the gun..

[mongocanfly]

I got my new moisture trap setup finished...heres a pic of the old setup.(after I took it apart)..and the new setup..I used all new pipe and fittings as aell...when I looked inside the old pipes, they were oxidized inside..
I also mixed up some paint to try to fill in the divots..my paint mixes 8:4:1...so i took a toothpick and dipped in the red ,and put 8 drops on the board, then another toothpick in the hardner and added 1 drop of it...then i mixed it up....a new toothpick worked pretty good for dabbing paint..now my door looks like it has the measals..I tried to get a pic of it but it doesnt show up to good..
I'll let it dry good and then see if itll wet sand and blend in..if not , there will be a repaint acoming...

[nsb29]

When you sand your pimples use a hard block with 600 to flatten them I use a paint stick about 3” long and very carefully take them down if you don’t have a TP filter you should consider one it will collect any oil or moisture that gets past your traps

[mongocanfly]

Nsb..could you elaborate on the tp filter..?..is it really a toilet paper filter?

[theastronaut]

You might need to make or buy a refrigerated air drier with all the heat and humidity you have. The air in the lines has to cool down below the dew point before moisture will condense out of the lines and if the shop and lines are hot that might not happen no matter how long your lines are. Water traps don't catch vapor.

I rigged up a dorm fridge with a 5 gallon bucket full of water and coiled up 20' of copper air line in the bucket. There's a water trap on the exit side of the copper line. Works great to cool the air and condense water out before it reaches the gun. I've been using this setup with a simple inline filter at the gun for years with no contamination issues from moisture.

As far as fixing it, if they're glossy at the bottom and it didn't show up until the third coat then you have two coats underneath if you sand them out. I've had a those kinds of shallow fish eyes occur every once and awhile over the years and they always sand out.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Nsb..could you elaborate on the tp filter..?..is it really a toilet paper filter?

It’s really not TP but it looks like a roll of TP and how it gets it’s name they work very well at stopping moisture and oil as teastronaut brought up a coil of copper tubing in a bucket of cold water before your traps to condense the moisture in the air is a good idea but it doesn’t stop oil or any thing that forms in the line that is where the TP filter comes in any paint supplier has them for 60 to 80 bucks replacements filters are around 7 or 8 dollars

[mongocanfly]

Thanks John ...I hadn't really thought about it like that but it makes sense....I may have to see if I can rig up something like that...
Humidity is one reason why I had put off doing any painting for the last couple of months...the other night the humidity was low when I did the doors...

Nsb...when I googled tp filter it actually came up with a toilet paper filter....so I had to ask...thanks for clearing it up..haha

[Getter-Done]

Here is a filter like this in the 1st link that I have Tried twice.
The housing is somewhat less desirable.
The filter looks like toilet paper.

This is what helped me the most when I run my

Air lines like TP Tools did in the 2nd link.




1st link: https://www.tptools.com/Cabinet-Air-...?b=s*tp+filter


2nd link: https://cached.tptools.com/Images/ai...ng-diagram.pdf












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