1970 fuse box upgrade/ conversion to 18-Way Fuse Box

[jarrodblake]

I'm in the middle of upgrading my fuse box to a 18 circuit fuse box for my c30.

I'm not sure where to place some of the wires on the new box.

Here is a pic of the new fuse box.

IMAG2651 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Here is the list of all the circuits on the new fuse box.

1 HAZARD
2 COIL
3 HORN
4 HEADLIGHT
5 DOME
6 PWR WINDOW
7 CIG LIGHTER
8 WIPERS
9 STOP
10 fUEL PUMP
11 GAUGES
12 RADIO
13 DOOR LOCKS
14 A/C HEAT
15 ELEC FAN
16 BACKUP/ CRUISE
17 RADIO
18 TURN SIGNAL

Here is the list of all the circuits on the old fuse box.

1 AIR COND HEAT
2 RADIO IS A BLADE CONNECTOR
3 BU LPS FROM WHAT I HAVE READ IT IS FOR THE BACK UP LIGHTS?
4 WIPERS
5 TRAFFIC HAZ
6 TAIL STOP PARK DOME
7 GL BOX & SPOT LP
8 PNL LTS


Here is the list of all the circuits on the new fuse box. That I have hooked up.


1 HAZARD (5) TRAFFIC HAZ is jumped to the flasher relay.
2 COIL
3 HORN
4 HEADLIGHT
5 DOME
6 PWR WINDOW
7 CIG LIGHTER
8 WIPERS (4) WIPERS
9 STOP (6) TAIL STOP PARK DOME
10 fUEL PUMP
11 GAUGES 8 PNL LTS
12 RADIO
13 DOOR LOCKS
14 A/C HEAT (1) AIR COND HEAT
15 ELEC FAN
16 BACKUP/ CRUISE (3) BU LPS FROM WHAT I HAVE READ IT IS FOR THE BACK UP LIGHTS?
17 RADIO
18 TURN SIGNAL

Should I wire the (7) GL BOX & SPOT LP to the (5) DOME, as tail lights and dome are on the same circuit? Also what is SPOT LP?

Should I wire (9) PNL LTS to (4) HEADLIGHT?

I have two radio fuses. Should I wire one for constant power and one for keyed power Or just use one for keyed power and run the constant power unfused? I plan on running all unused fuses to a 12 Position Covered Dual Row Screw Terminal Block Connector Bar. So when I add the rest of my accessories I can just connect them to the Terminal Block for keyed fused power.


IMAG2650 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG2649 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

[Metaldoc]

Been there

[lousyflyer]

Where did you get the new fuse block? Did it come to you empty/no terminals? I have a damaged one that looks just like it except the ignition coil area is melted. My harness is an older Painless Performance kit. Their website has all the various installation manuals available for free downloading. Your block looks similar to mine and they are based on General Motors engineering.
https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10202.pdf

There are tables near the back of the manual that give you an idea of the origins of some of the wiring and you may find this helpful. I went through the installation manual from front to back when trying to straighten out the mistakes made by my trucks previous owner.

Someone powered a radiator fan by piggybacking onto the coil fuse, which melted the block in that area. Now it just says "Coi "

I recommend that you use a battery charger to power up your initial testing instead of the truck's battery. The smaller the charger, the less wiring you will have to replace if you make any mistakes. The battery will afford you no such luxury, providing instantaneous full current to the system, and by the time you see and smell the smoke its all over but the crying.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by lousyflyer

Where did you get the new fuse block? Did it come to you empty/no terminals? I have a damaged one that looks just like it except the ignition coil area is melted. My harness is an older Painless Performance kit. Their website has all the various installation manuals available for free downloading. Your block looks similar to mine and they are based on General Motors engineering.
https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10202.pdf

There are tables near the back of the manual that give you an idea of the origins of some of the wiring and you may find this helpful. I went through the installation manual from front to back when trying to straighten out the mistakes made by my trucks previous owner.

Someone powered a radiator fan by piggybacking onto the coil fuse, which melted the block in that area. Now it just says "Coi "

I recommend that you use a battery charger to power up your initial testing instead of the truck's battery. The smaller the charger, the less wiring you will have to replace if you make any mistakes. The battery will afford you no such luxury, providing instantaneous full current to the system, and by the time you see and smell the smoke its all over but the crying.

I bought the fuse box off amazon for $24. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It came with everything in this pic minus one flasher.



Thanks for the link, the battery charger is a good idea. I plan on bench testing what I can. I have a adjustable DC Power Supply Precision Variable Dual Digital Tester. That I can adjust the voltage and amperage that I plan on using.

I'm still unsure if I should I wire the (7) GL BOX & SPOT LP to the (5) DOME, as tail lights and dome are on the same circuit? Also what is SPOT LP?

Should I wire (9) PNL LTS to (4) HEADLIGHT?

I have two radio fuses. Should I wire one for constant power and one for keyed power Or just use one for keyed power and run the constant power unfused? I plan on running all unused fuses to a 12 Position Covered Dual Row Screw Terminal Block Connector Bar. So when I add the rest of my accessories I can just connect them to the Terminal Block for keyed fused power.

[zosoppp]

I am curious, do the two bolt locations match up to the bulkhead connector locations?

Can you provide a measurement between the centers?

It looks like the original fuse block for our trucks have the two bolt locations separated by about 4-3/4" to 4-13/16".

[Andy4639]

I'm still unsure if I should I wire the (7) GL BOX & SPOT LP to the (5) DOME, as tail lights and dome are on the same circuit? Also what is SPOT LP?

Should I wire (9) PNL LTS to (4) HEADLIGHT?

I have two radio fuses. Should I wire one for constant power and one for keyed power Or just use one for keyed power and run the constant power unfused? I plan on running all unused fuses to a 12 Position Covered Dual Row Screw Terminal Block Connector Bar. So when I add the rest of my accessories I can just connect them to the Terminal Block for keyed fused power.

My 2 cents worth.

'Spot LP' was for a out side are hand held spot light which where common back then. Yes, hook them to a hot 12 v all the time that is fused. You can hook them off the cig lighter as well.

You want your parking lights to come on separate from the head lights.
Both radio wires should be fused. You want one for memory that never cuts off if you have a later model radio installed.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by zosoppp

I am curious, do the two bolt locations match up to the bulkhead connector locations?

Can you provide a measurement between the centers?

It looks like the original fuse block for our trucks have the two bolt locations separated by about 4-3/4" to 4-13/16".

The mounting locations are on opposite sides, that said the measurement between the centers is 4 1/2. I plan to just drill two new holes.

here is a pic of them beside each other. I marked the mounting locations in red.

IMAG2655 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Originally Posted by Andy4639

My 2 cents worth.

'Spot LP' was for a out side are hand held spot light which where common back then. Yes, hook them to a hot 12 v all the time that is fused. You can hook them off the cig lighter as well.

You want your parking lights to come on separate from the headlights.
Both radio wires should be fused. You want one for memory that never cuts off if you have a later model radio installed.

That is neat I did not know a hand held spot light was a option. I'm going to have my cig lighter come on with the accessories that way I can leave my phone charger plugged in and not drain the battery.

I know PNL LTS stands for panel lights which is the gauge cluster lights. The headlights don't have a fused location on the stock fuse box. From what I have read the headlight switch has a circuit breaker built into it. I was thinking of using the headlight fuse location on the new panel. As I don't know what else I should use it for. I could mark out head and just have it say lights.

I don't have a modern radio, I really don't want to cut up the dash. I have been throwing around the idea of using a cheap bluetooth amp and modding the volume knob on the old shat radio to control the volume of the amp as the radio does not work. It powers on but no sound. But maybe one day I will save up and get a retro sound bluetooth radio.

[MySons68C20]

Dumb question, what is that tool in the upper right hand corner of the picture?
It kind of looks like a leather punch but?

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Dumb question, what is that tool in the upper right hand corner of the picture?
It kind of looks like a leather punch but?

The silver tool? it's a wire Terminal Release Tool. It is used to remove wires from plugs.

[MySons68C20]

Thank you!

[Andy4639]

Yes the head lights work off the switch. That light fuse could be for the door under dash lights are other lights added later maybe.

[jarrodblake]

Stupid question what is the cluster feed pin used for? It does not seem to go to the gauge cluster itself. I dont see a place where a single wire goes to.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by jarrodblake

Stupid question what is the cluster feed pin used for? It does not seem to go to the gauge cluster itself. I dont see a place where a single wire goes to.

Cluster feed, is instrument panel lights which dim with the headlight switch rotation, used for factory AC panel bulb and factory tilt indicator lamp bulb, both are grey wires that plug in there.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by randy500

Cluster feed, is instrument panel lights which dim with the headlight switch rotation, used for factory AC panel bulb and factory tilt indicator lamp bulb, both are grey wires that plug in there.

Thank you, I was not sure if I had lost part of the harness. I don't have A/C and its a manual. That said I wired a jumper off the gray fused wire that leads to a Dual Row Screw Terminal Block Connector Bar. That way I can add a few aftermarket gauges and have them light up when I turn on the lights.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by jarrodblake

The mounting locations are on opposite sides, that said the measurement between the centers is 4 1/2. I plan to just drill two new holes.

here is a pic of them beside each other. I marked the mounting locations in red.

IMAG2655 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr





That is neat I did not know a hand held spot light was a option. I'm going to have my cig lighter come on with the accessories that way I can leave my phone charger plugged in and not drain the battery.

I know PNL LTS stands for panel lights which is the gauge cluster lights. The headlights don't have a fused location on the stock fuse box. From what I have read the headlight switch has a circuit breaker built into it. I was thinking of using the headlight fuse location on the new panel. As I don't know what else I should use it for. I could mark out head and just have it say lights.

I don't have a modern radio, I really don't want to cut up the dash. I have been throwing around the idea of using a cheap bluetooth amp and modding the volume knob on the old shat radio to control the volume of the amp as the radio does not work. It powers on but no sound. But maybe one day I will save up and get a retro sound bluetooth radio.

Here are couple of spot lights I have. The black plastic handle one is a GM light my dad gave me.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Here are couple of spot lights I have. The black plastic handle one is a GM light my dad gave me.

Those are really cool!

[jarrodblake]

I made a mounting bracket to mount the fuse box, terminal blocks and relays. I made the bracket out of some .063 (1/16) thick 3003-H14 aluminum sheet I had left over from another project.

IMAG2666 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Here is a test fit of the bracket. I plan on running a electric e brake. So I have the bracket moved farther over than needed. It would fit No problem but I wanted to give myself extra room.

IMAG2671 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I used two rivnuts to mount the fuse box to the bracket.
IMAG2670 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Here is a pic of the terminal block that powers all the keyed accessories. I am going to use a relay to power the terminal block using the stock keyed power wire to switch the relay on. I used 12 gauge wire for both terminal blocks. That way no matter what I end up adding I will have a sufficient gauge wire to power it.

IMAG2673 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Here is a pic of the terminal block connector bar. All the yellow wires are keyed power and red wires are always on. The first terminal is for the fuel sending unit. The second is the second to light up any gauges I add. The third is for the dome light. The fourth is if I want to add anything else that needs power all the time. I don't know what I will end up using it for I can't think but I thought I would add it. The fifth and sixth is for the radio one for constant power and one for switched. The rest are for when I add other accessories.

IMAG2674 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I color coded all the fuse turnimals to there terminal block to make it easier for when I add an accessory. I also made the bracket big enough so when I add a accessory. I have room to label the turnimals as the fuse box is pre labeled but I won't be using them for what is printed on the fuse box.

IMAG2675 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

Tomorrow I will bench test it after I wire up the relay. Hopefully I will get it installed as well.

[jarrodblake]

I bench tested it and wired up the relay and installed it back in the truck. Now I just need to get a set of led flashers and and install a bulkhead battery cable passthrough connector in the fire wall and install a dedicated terminal distribution ground block for all my accessories.

IMAG2681 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

You can see here I installed rivnuts in the fire wall the mount the fuse box. I installed the rivnuts backwards as I have a 10mm sound deadening/ heat insulation mat on the firewall the nucerts sit flush with the mat.

IMAG2677 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

I also made a block off plate for the hole for the old e brake as I plan on running a electric e brake. I drilled the mounting holes bigger than the nutserts so the plate sits flush with the firewall.

IMAG2680 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

[Andy4639]

That is looking great sir! Nice job and write up on the install.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

That is looking great sir! Nice job and write up on the install.

Thanks, I'm happy with how it came out. The write up could have been better. Hopefully it helps someone looking to do the same thing. There was a build thread that had a good writeup in it that I thought I had book marked a few years ago, I searched for a few weeks trying different keywords going through build threads but I could not find it. So I decided to make a thread for it.