S10 Swap how to

[OutlawDrifter]

I'm have a ZR2 axle under my pickup, but I also have a custom bed and am running 10" wide wheels on the back.

Gives me the "dually" look I wanted.

[Lmuelly]

Ok, my first post and a simple question. I have been thru this complete thread several times. My question is should the cab basically be level with frame in the center section? (I'm sure that this has been addressed and I'm just missing it) I know the frame drops slightly as it goes toward the front mount. I will know soon as I have my mounts tacked in place. So much info! Thanks!

[joedoh]

yes, the FLOOR will be level with the top of the straight part of the frame.

you can also stand back from the side and the bottom of the rocker will be parallel to the bottom of the frame in the straight part. although this can be misleading if you arent straight on, because the cab gets wider as it goes back, so any misalignment in viewing angle will make it appear unlevel. my advice is to hold a camera level and take a picture, it takes away the foreshortening.

[Lmuelly]

Thanks joedoh! I actually found your answer shortly after I gave up and posted my question. Your post #832 mentions it.
Also for anyone looking, my S10 mounts were lost and the best deal I have found on a set of mounts was at Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-sb614k

[joedoh]

did they come with the steel parts or do you have to reuse them from the originals? I used energy suspension mounts but they do not come with the steels.

[Lmuelly]

Yes they come with the steel spacers, washers, nuts and bolts! They are smaller than factory. I believe I punched a 1 5/8" hole in my mounting plates.

[skymangs]

rustomod, I’m glad you’re finding lots of use for your newfound knowledge and that’s exactly what should be done with that crappy 504 kit. feels much better when you do your own fab, doesn’t it?
lmuelly, follow my build instructions exactly. I’ve never so much as had a bolt not fit, and I’ve built hundreds.
And thank you, the recovery is going well. in fact I’m hoping to make a pretty big announcement fairly soon. I’ll just leave it at that.

[8man]

Well Merry Christmas to Skymangs, it sounds like Santa may be good to him this year.

[Rustomod]

Here's a twist that I decided would provide a lot of bang for the buck: C4 Vette rearend. S10 owners do this but have to do a lot of narrowing. But the S10 frame really works good with all the mounting points. And the width is great for the AD truck. I did this first attempt by myself in about 14 hours including boxing of the frame rails. It looks like if you mount the batwing up snug against the bottom of the frame rail, it should sit about 3" lower than the stock S10 once the truck is assembled.

[DC118us]

I'm new to the forum and have just begun reclaiming a well used 49 short bed and have poured over this thread as well as Hussey's "Albert" thread.

1st off, I simply love the details you both have given.

2nd, on the cab mount designs you both have created, I see a slight difference in front to rear mount heights and was curious. Skymangs your rear mounts are 3/4" taller above the frame than the front mounts, but Hussey's plans only show 1/2" difference. Is there some reason for this? Appears to me they both yield great stances. Skymangs seem like they would raise the rear bumper substantially over Hussey's

Again, thanks for the great details.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by DC118us

I'm new to the forum and have just begun reclaiming a well used 49 short bed and have poured over this thread as well as Hussey's "Albert" thread.

1st off, I simply love the details you both have given.

2nd, on the cab mount designs you both have created, I see a slight difference in front to rear mount heights and was curious. Skymangs your rear mounts are 3/4" taller above the frame than the front mounts, but Hussey's plans only show 1/2" difference. Is there some reason for this? Appears to me they both yield great stances. Skymangs seem like they would raise the rear bumper substantially over Hussey's

Again, thanks for the great details.

Nope, that’s just the way I build em', not defending whether it’s right or wrong; just different.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

And thank you, the recovery is going well. in fact I’m hoping to make a pretty big announcement fairly soon. I’ll just leave it at that.

I pray for you pretty often, I have learned a ton!

[skymangs]

Indeed he may, Just need all the pieces to fall in place!

[oldman3]

Always thinking about you Chris, best to you now and in the upcoming year...Jim

[skymangs]

Thanks Jim

[skymangs]

And thanks Joedoe

[joedoh]

just cut some slots in your apron (baffle) and push it down, then with some triangles of steel make it funnel the air right through the cooler.

you need airflow over a cooler to work efficiently, I have seen otehr guys put them under the cab but that doesnt get enough airflow in my opinion. so getting it right in the air stream is going to work.

by the way, the air coming out of the trans cooler will usually be cooler than the air passing over the rad, unless you are really towing. I have a second trans cooler added to the rad cooler on my 2500HD and the trans temp is always under the coolant temp, unless I am towing or hauling, then they are the same temp (because of the cooler in the rad)

air to trans fluid coolers arent as efficient as water (coolant) to trans fluid, but if your rad doesnt have a cooler in it then you dont have a lot of choice. remember to get a plate style cooler, not a fin style, for max cooling, and also remember that good ones will have a waxstat to limit flow through the cooler till it warms up a bit, because you can have your trans fluid TOO cold.

[Northern 52]

Some great points brought up. I think a transmission temperature gage has just been added to my instrumentation list.

Thank you.

[Wyattdog2]

I am ordering some wheels 18 x 8 for the front of my 50 Chevy, s10 frame truck and wonder what back space you recommend.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Wyattdog2

I am ordering some wheels 18 x 8 for the front of my 50 Chevy, s10 frame truck and wonder what back space you recommend.

I used 20x8 with 4" backspace and they looked perfect in the wheelwells and turned lock to lock without rubbing, even though it tucked most of the tire.

remember that backspace is different depending on wheel width, 4" of backspace is 5" of front space on an 8 inch wide wheel. (yes 4+5 is 9 inches wide, there are two 1/2 inch lips on each side of an 8" wide wheel) but 4 inches of backspace on a 7" wide wheel is what they call 0 offset (7+1, /2= 4) and is actually a positive offset on a 6 inch wide wheel (6+1, /2= 3.5 center so 12mm positive offset).

my point isnt to confuse you, just to say that 4" backspace on 8" wide is a mutually exclusive answer, dont buy a 9.5" wide wheel just because it has 4" backspace.

[skymangs]

Very well explained joedoe. Couldn’t have put it better myself.

[50ChevyTruck]

First of all great thread. Thanks for taking the time .

I read through all of the post and I didn't see anyone talk about the lower grill support. I think that is what it is called. It is a piece of sheet metal that mounts to the bottom of the grill and to the inner fenders. Are you guys just leaving it off? It appears to me that when I mount my inner fenders this pan will not mount because of the end of the S-10 front frame rails. Yes, I did cut my frame rails just in front of the steering box but there is not enough room for the pan.

If you did install it, pictures would be great.

Thanks
Rick

[99 to Life]

I never install them. If using s10 you have to trim to fit. Guy named hussey on here built a truck named albert. he has a pictures of it done.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 50ChevyTruck

First of all great thread. Thanks for taking the time .

I read through all of the post and I didn't see anyone talk about the lower grill support. I think that is what it is called. It is a piece of sheet metal that mounts to the bottom of the grill and to the inner fenders. Are you guys just leaving it off? It appears to me that when I mount my inner fenders this pan will not mount because of the end of the S-10 front frame rails. Yes, I did cut my frame rails just in front of the steering box but there is not enough room for the pan.

If you did install it, pictures would be great.

Thanks
Rick

I thought I had pictures also, but yes...trim to fit as closely as possible. I think I took maybe 6" off the air dam and then had to cut a couple slots for the frame rails.

[joedoh]

its the splash pan/air diverter for the radiator, if you live in a hot climate your truck will run a lot cooler with it installed.

here is what I did, in this picture you can see the pan trimmed for the frame horns



I cut a piece of thin abs (its actually kydex) using the UPPER grille closeout (with the latch) as the rough pattern then trimmed it to fit and screwed it down with some sheelmetal screws




thats a chevrolet, gmc is a little different, but the same plan, trim to fit then plastic.





the rad sits so high in the swap that you want to force air to go through the core. if there is any room to get around (or below) the rad, it will.