Clearcoating an original paint

[Nima]

Hi There:
First thing first, I really don't know much about auto paint.
I have a 1972 nova with original gulf green paint. No body damage but, there are 3 scratch marks all the way through the body where I can see evidence of mild surface rust. I am wondering if I can use some kind of anti rust, primer and touch up paint and then spray clear coat on the entire car. This original paint is faded in way that if you wipe the car your see the pain on your hand or cloth.
So, considering limited budget, please let have your advice.
Thanks

[theastronaut]

I have shot clear over a few older paint jobs before to preserve the patina look. If it's original paint that hasn't peeled or flaked and is just chalky then you can scuff it with red scuff pads and dawn dish detergent to get rid of the layer of "dead" paint and oxidation. This is critical to getting the clear to stick and last.

You can buff a spot and have a paint shop scan the color to get a close match, and if they're really good they can tint the paint by eye to get an exact match. You can use that to blend in any repaired areas before you shoot clear. I believe that's a metallic paint, so you'll want to use a blending solvent to keep the edges of the blended areas wet so the metallic particles in the new basecoat will lay down properly. Dry edges around the blended area will stick out like a sore thumb since the metallic particles won't be oriented properly.

I usually add a flattening agent to the clear so it's not 100% gloss. I don't like 100% shiny patina, but that's a personal preference. 7-8% flattener in SPI clear gives the look of well-buffed original paint. 15% gives a dull shine, and 25% gives a satin finish.


This is dad's truck that was scuffed and shot with 25% flattened SPI clear. I think 15-20% would've looked better.









My '63 VW shot with 7-8% flattened SPI clear.








'51 GMC with 7-8% flattener.

[Terrysch]

Nima,
theastronaut gave you a great answer on the surface prep and clearcoat.
You may already know this, but clear coat became mainstream in the 1980s. When clear cost was added in the 80s, the UV protection was put in the clear coat. Not in base color coat. Less expensive putting it in the clear coat than the base color coat.

The surface prep IS the most important piece, and the one that is many times not given enough attention.

For the rust stripes you may get a number of answers and opinions.
If it were my car I would remove the loose rust, but carefully.
Then I would use Rust-Mort for rust conversion, then a zinc primer before the top coat and clear coat.
But you should get some great input from other Forum members.
Terry

[Terrysch]

Forgot one comment.

theastronaut - you are being ultra picky on your dads trucking on the flattener gloss. The paint including the clearcoat on your truck is gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Nima]

Yep, all those paint look very nice and they are what I am hoping for. Thanks for the information.