To prime or not?

[68_Step]

I pulled my 350 to mainly fix oil leaks. I took off the valve covers, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, oil pan, oil pump, harmonic balancer, and timing chain cover. I did not remove the valve train, cam, or crank. Do I need to oil prime the engine?

Thanks!

[chiefcfd]

Yes, I would.

[MARKDTN]

If you replaced the oil pump it definitely needs priming. If you didn't replace it I am curious why not?

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by markdtn

if you replaced the oil pump it definitely needs priming. If you didn't replace it i am curious why not?

x2

[cooperhw]

Since you have already pulled the distributor (changing the manifold) I would. Just cheap insurance. Could probably have gotten away with turning it over with the coil wire off for a bit, but why would you not want to? Unless you already stabbed the dist.?

[7tee]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

If you replaced the oil pump it definitely needs priming. If you didn't replace it I am curious why not?

X3 for sure...

[GRX]

Prime is fine. Slicker the quicker.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

If you replaced the oil pump it definitely needs priming. If you didn't replace it I am curious why not?

x4

[slomotion]

Priming is really easy. It doesn't matter if the engine is still on the stand, or in the truck. Take the distributor out, get a piece of round stock or an old large screw driver a couple of inches longer than the distance from the dist. flange to the bottom of the shaft. If you used round stock flatten the end so it looks like a large screw driver. (I had an old wooden handled screw driver that had broken years ago, so I just cut it off and the business end is in my "special tool" drawer for just this purpose.) Anyway, chuck up the screw driver in a variable speed drill, insert this into the engine, engage the pump slot, and turn the oil pump shaft until you see evidence of oil at the rockers. (During the re-assembly, I hope the plastic guide went back on the pump shaft.) the only tricky part is when you get done priming, the slot has to be in the right position to allow the dist. to engage. Don't force anything, when the pump slot is correct, the dist. will "tunk" right in.

[davepl]

It's worth $10 or whatever the proper tool costs. Failing that we all have old distributors around, just make one out of it. Grind off the gear or (at least one aftermarket ones I've seen) drive out the roll pin and remove the gear.

[GRX]

Modifying an old distributor is a good option. Simply turning the pump shaft with a screwdriver or similar is not sufficient. Without something to direct oil to the passenger side galley it will just dump back down the distributor hole & the valve train on that side will be starved. Here is a pic of the proper tool which mimics the distributor:

[slomotion]

Now we're getting there! Everybody says "Prime, prime, prime" but then let an old geezer jump in and say HOW to prime, and out comes the state-of-the-art stuff!
Not trying to offend 68_step, he probably already knew this, but for the new crew I thought it might be worth a few words to explain the process.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by GRX

Modifying an old distributor is a good option. Simply turning the pump shaft with a screwdriver or similar is not sufficient. Without something to direct oil to the passenger side galley it will just dump back down the distributor hole & the valve train on that side will be starved. Here is a pic of the proper tool which mimics the distributor:

That's exactly right. Without something directing oil flow it does only prime half(at best) of the motor been there done that.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by slomotion

(During the re-assembly, I hope the plastic guide went back on the pump shaft.).

Yep, new retaining collar and pump.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by GRX

Modifying an old distributor is a good option. Simply turning the pump shaft with a screwdriver or similar is not sufficient. Without something to direct oil to the passenger side galley it will just dump back down the distributor hole & the valve train on that side will be starved. Here is a pic of the proper tool which mimics the distributor:

I now have one that looks exactly like that. I went ahead and primed it late this afternoon

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Now we're getting there! Everybody says "Prime, prime, prime" but then let an old geezer jump in and say HOW to prime, and out comes the state-of-the-art stuff!
Not trying to offend 68_step, he probably already knew this, but for the new crew I thought it might be worth a few words to explain the process.

Offend, nope. If I ever stop learning it means I'm dead!

[GRX]

Originally Posted by 68_Step

I now have one that looks exactly like that. I went ahead and primed it late this afternoon

Right on! Best of luck

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

If you replaced the oil pump it definitely needs priming. If you didn't replace it I am curious why not?

That's what I was thinking. And yeah, I'd have replaced that pump.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That's what I was thinking. And yeah, I'd have replaced that pump.

Replaced

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by GRX

Right on! Best of luck

Tonight after work I will cut to length the spark plug wires and charge battery. With any luck tomorrow I will install the new Edelbrock and crank! I hope...

[Jurassic-1]

I ground the teeth off of an old distributer and it works great. I had it laying around and needed it right away. The tool would be great and probably takes less room in the tool box. Both work great.