Cab floor replacement order

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Your body line looks nice and straight from the door to cab corner. What is the gap between your door bottom and top of the outer rocker? I was thinking maybe the thickness of a paint stir stick, the wooden ones.

Yes, it is about 1/8 of a inch gap. I did put the cowl on when I was lining everything up too.

[May70]

I used a carpenters pencil width (roughly) myself. I wanted some room for play down the road. I plan on having my truck a very long time.

Let us know how the door hanging goes.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

I used a carpenters pencil width (roughly) myself. I wanted some room for play down the road. I plan on having my truck a very long time.

Let us know how the door hanging goes.

Thanks for the info. I didn't have a good measurement of that gap before taking my doors off as my rockers were that bad. After reviewing a few pictures on here, it would appear that some have a very small gap, and with use the door is likely to drag, unless the hinges stay tight for a long time. I would prefer a larger gap, for the same reason of keeping my truck for as long as I can.

[KMC3420]

Initial fit of the doors appear that all is aligning well. The doors close with ease, but I need to make adjustments to my hinges as both doors are too far in at the top. My main concern was alignment at the bottom of the door and floor but appears I have plenty of room for the outer rocker to fit. I will do a few more tests with the rockers on to see what kind of clearance issues might pop up.

Passenger side:



Driver side:

[May70]

I wish I had bought the regular floor and not the high hump.... could have just cut out the hump hole and saved a ton of work....

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

I wish I had bought the regular floor and not the high hump.... could have just cut out the hump hole and saved a ton of work....

It does appear that way, but then you may not of documented the entire floor process and allowed others to follow along on that piece, (me being selfish). Regardless, you are closer than you were on your floor install.

[KMC3420]

Loosely fit a rocker in place to see what it would look like. The rocker is a bit too long but if I can put my patch pieces in the exact same place, A and B pillar patches, I think I can make a few slices in the rocker to get it to sit much better. Just checking initial fitment for now. You can see the inner rocker has a slight wave to it, but that can be alleviated when clamped in place for welding.

[KMC3420]

One more.

[May70]

That is a dang good start on those rockers. You should be very pleased. Little finessing and you'll be done!

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

That is a dang good start on those rockers. You should be very pleased. Little finessing and you'll be done!

I sure hope so but I have to get the replacement lower A/B pillars in. I will need to take plenty of measurements and get them spot on. I am going to get the passenger side rocker fit today, get a feel for how it fits then start cutting the pillars out. I have the rear of the cab spot welded and ready to go. My front firewall flange is still loose, I will likely get 3-4 spot welds on each side, just to keep things lined up. I am happy with progress so far.

[sduckworth13]

Good luck on the lower door pillars. I took a piece of cardboard and traced the original lower door pillar and matched up the replacement to get close to the original location..

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Good luck on the lower door pillars. I took a piece of cardboard and traced the original lower door pillar and matched up the replacement to get close to the original location..

Thanks Scott. That is my plan to make a template of some sort to get my patch aligned as close as possible.

[sduckworth13]

You’ve done awesome with getting that floor in and the rocker on there without any issues. I don’t know of any rockers available that don’t need a pie cut here or there. Great job!

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

You’ve done awesome with getting that floor in and the rocker on there without any issues. I don’t know of any rockers available that don’t need a pie cut here or there. Great job!

Thanks Scott. I put off getting my floor in as it seemed pretty daunting, but kicking myself now as I am now having to deal with cold and can’t paint as needed. The floor hasn’t been that bad at all. I think I may need a few pie cuts, but will know soon enough.

[May70]

Well since you have your floor in place, you are really steps ahead. Pillars take some slicing and dicing. Make sure your floor doesn't move and just line your holes up.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

Well since you have your floor in place, you are really steps ahead. Pillars take some slicing and dicing. Make sure your floor doesn't move and just line your holes up.

Thanks May, I still need to weld my firewall flange. I completed the back wall welds yesterday. I plan to get it welded as solid as possible to mitigate movement, then start on the lower A/B pillar patches. I still believe the outer rockers might require a few slices to close the gaps at the B pillar as the rocker seems to be just a tad too wide. I know the factory rockers had gaps here and there and were filled with seam sealer, but I would like to get all gaps as tight as possible.

[May70]

Ive run into the paint problem as well..... 30 something degrees here and rain yesterday...

[KMC3420]

Had a nice warm day yesterday so took a vacation day and knocked out what I could. Still lots of welding/grinding to do, but my rockers line up as they did, and my measurements came out the same. Happy with the results. Just need another few days to weld/grind. I put in 12 hours yesterday and didnt take many breaks at all, but feel pretty good about the progress. The patch that gave me the most issues was the A pillar, driver side. The patch would hit the inner rocker before being far enough in where the door bolts to the A pillar, had to bend that one around a bit. All others were pretty much spot on. I will have to do some outer rocker tweaking to get them to sit as flush as possible, but knew that with the original A/B pillar pieces in place. My plan now is to put my front fenders, cowl, and doors on. Make sure everything lines up as it should and then drill my bolt holes for lower A/B pillars. From there I will burn it all in. Once all burned in, I will sandblast and epoxy my fresh welds and likely haul it to the garage for the winter, out of the weather. What a chore though.

[May70]

Looks good. Im hoping to put some sealer down today myself.

Just an idea but I put a hole in the bottom of my A pillar for water to drain out and not collect.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

Looks good. Im hoping to put some sealer down today myself.

Just an idea but I put a hole in the bottom of my A pillar for water to drain out and not collect.

The days are turning colder quickly. Even if it does get up to 65 degrees during the day, the night turns cold and down to 30-40's. Tough to paint thats for sure. Thats a good idea about the drain hole. Surely, this will get me quite a few good years out of no rust issues..we shall see.

[sduckworth13]

Nice job on getting your pieces tacked in, what kind of welder are you using? I never could get my Hobart 140 to dial in to get perfect spot welds. Yours look perfect!

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Nice job on getting your pieces tacked in, what kind of welder are you using? I never could get my Hobart 140 to dial in to get perfect spot welds. Yours look perfect!

Thanks. It’s a millermatic 211, which is dual voltage. I normally run it on 240, but have been doing 120 as I’m working outside. I had a Miller 135 a few years back and never could get it dialed in. The Miller I have now runs really smooth. I have put my cab away for the time being, winter. I have recently purchased a tig machine and trying my hand at that. So far it’s quite challenging.

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Thanks. It’s a millermatic 211, which is dual voltage. I normally run it on 240, but have been doing 120 as I’m working outside. I had a Miller 135 a few years back and never could get it dialed in. The Miller I have now runs really smooth. I have put my cab away for the time being, winter. I have recently purchased a tig machine and trying my hand at that. So far it’s quite challenging.

Cool. That will be my next welder. Good luck with the tig welding, I’ve heard great things about the Everlast Brand Tig Welders, they are fairly priced too.

[64chevmn]

I' doing a complete floor replacement on my 68 short box over the Christmas holidays. Do both the high hump and the low hump floors have the same 3/8" issue with the inner rocker panels or is it just with the high hump stamps?? I have a high hump in my truck but plan on picking up a low hump this weekend since that is what they have in stock?

[May70]

Originally Posted by 64chevmn

I' doing a complete floor replacement on my 68 short box over the Christmas holidays. Do both the high hump and the low hump floors have the same 3/8" issue with the inner rocker panels or is it just with the high hump stamps?? I have a high hump in my truck but plan on picking up a low hump this weekend since that is what they have in stock?

No just the high hump. I have some videos and details on my project build and youtube channel linked below.