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Old 05-18-2002, 06:50 PM   #1
70cst10
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Post A question for those who have changed door skins..

How do you roll the lip around the door? The panel is pretty thick and stiff. The only way I can think of is to use a hammer to beat the lip around, but I don't want to damage the panel.. Thanks for your help!


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Lexington, SC

1968 c/10 lwb 250/3 on the tree
1970 CST/10 lwb no motor/trans


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Old 05-18-2002, 07:15 PM   #2
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The way I have always done them is use a body hammer to bend the lip over then use a heel dolly on the outside of the door while I bent the lip down onto the pannel. You might have to go along the oustide edge of the door with some plastic filler.
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Old 05-18-2002, 07:39 PM   #3
SS454
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I've changed out a lot of door skins.

The best way to fold the lip is to use a hammer and dolly. Don't fully crimp any one section all the way at first...rather, work around the skin gradually.

Before you start folding the lip, make sure you have the skin lined up correctly. If you get it wrong, it cannot be corrected later.

Most importantly, don't get in a rush. Caulk the skin where the frame will rest, then lower the frame onto the skin.

When you're all done crimping, apply a couple of spot welds to lock the skin in position, then apply a finish bead of caulk to the exposed seam. Also, don't forget to shoot some rustproofing into the inside of the door all along the new seam.

Typically, after a good door skin installation job the need for filler is minimal, and can usually be taken care of with a few coats of primer.

Good luck.



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'68 C20 - fresh 355,CH465,Dana 60, front disc brakes, rough body
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'57 Belair hardtop project
'00 S10 pickup daily driver
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'68 C20 - fresh 355,CH465,Dana 60, front disc brakes, rough body
'68 Chevelle ragtop project
'57 Belair hardtop project
'00 S10 pickup daily driver
'00 Chev Malibu the wife's car
tons of ambition

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Old 05-18-2002, 09:54 PM   #4
Mike C
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Eastwood actually sells a crimper for door skins. Don't know if you could justify it for the one job, however.

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Old 05-19-2002, 09:32 AM   #5
big71
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i have one and it is a great tool just dont crimp it tight untill you get all the way around the door and then go back and do it tight

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Old 05-19-2002, 08:11 PM   #6
70cst10
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Whew! Time for a little update. We cut the doors friday night. I took them to a friends house and sandblasted the insides. They're nice and clean now - totally rust free. Today, we put the new panels on. We didn't have any body sealer, so we used urethane (winshield sealer) for the seams. My dad and I ended up carefully rolling the lips around using a mallet and block of wood. I was suprised by how smooth it turned out that way.

We also filled in the holes from the ugly mirrors I had. My peep mirror (among other parts) is on the way! I've got some photos, but I'm too tired to post them now.

Up next : cab corners and rockers!

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milanplechata@hotmail.com

Lexington, SC

1968 c/10 lwb 250/3 on the tree
1970 CST/10 lwb no motor/trans


http://communities.msn.com/6772GMTru...68longbed.msnw

Every man dies, but not every man truly lives..


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Old 05-19-2002, 08:18 PM   #7
70cst10
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Oh - one thing I learned this weekend - if you're going to sandblast your doors, take everything out first! My door locks, windows and all are full of sand.

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milanplechata@hotmail.com

Lexington, SC

1968 c/10 lwb 250/3 on the tree
1970 CST/10 lwb no motor/trans


http://communities.msn.com/6772GMTru...68longbed.msnw

Every man dies, but not every man truly lives..


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1964 Chevelle SS 283/M20
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