Preparing to lift engine and transmission - More questions

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10 402/400TH

EDIT: Like everything else on these trucks, once done you realize it's easy.



I'm green to all of this. I have to pull the engine and trans. for a stripped frame, and I'd like to double check on the process. Word is it's easier to pull the transmission with the block, and then separate.


1. If I recall, first thing is to "break" the bolts loose which fasten the flex plate to the torque converter, so they're easier to take off when the engine/trans are off the frame? Snug em up some for the pull of course. On a side, I picked up a plate turning tool, works awesome.

2. What do you think of using the inner bolt holes on the heads (referenced by image and captions) to lift the block and transmission. Sure, I know a carb. plate can be used with a cast iron intake. But this is a BBC/400TH, and I prefer the safest method. For what it's worth, the block is stripped less a crank pulley...........................BTW, I tried a couple extractors on the busted bolt, unsuccessfully. Thing was a real *&%*%%, extremely hard material. I couldn't drill through without a large bit. Small bits would only go so far, and from there they just spun.

3. I'll lay the transmission on a platform to separate it from the block. I didn't want to risk damaging the existing pan, so I picked up repop. pan for $20. I suppose the transmission doesn't have to be covered, but seems cleaner to have one and $20 is cheap insurance.

4. I take it the crank shaft runs into the torque converter? How does this disconnect, or does it? Can I leave the crank pulley? Other than the obvious (engine/transmission mounts), anything else I need to look for? I realize the transmission slides into dowels fixed on the block.

Thank you

[Jcfcamaro]

Either way will work. If you need the trans out pull it as one, but if not leave it in. You will need to support it with wood under the pan with a jack if you leave it in as it will want to fall forward down. Pulling both is ok too and using a chain and bolts in the face of the head has been done for years. I would get a friend to help so one guy cab stand at the back of the hoist while the other watches and makes sure everything thing goes as planned. Lifting both will be very heavy on the hoist an make sure the legs are out as far as they can be and keep the top as far in as possible this way it keeps the weight in the center of the hoist. They can tip over don't ask me how I know.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Jcfcamaro

Either way will work. If you need the trans out pull it as one, but if not leave it in. You will need to support it with wood under the pan with a jack if you leave it in as it will want to fall forward down. Pulling both is ok too and using a chain and bolts in the face of the head has been done for years. I would get a friend to help so one guy cab stand at the back of the hoist while the other watches and makes sure everything thing goes as planned. Lifting both will be very heavy on the hoist an make sure the legs are out as far as they can be and keep the top as far in as possible this way it keeps the weight in the center of the hoist. They can tip over don't ask me how I know.

YIKES! Only one leg position on this hoist. Three for the boom, but I figure to use the closest 2000 lb. option. I'll support the the engine cross member with the floor jack from the rear, and use stands of course.

[57taskforce]

the Flex plate is bolted to the crank and the converter is bolted to the flex plate. Just loosen the converter bolts and then the bellhousing bolts to separate the trans when it’s put. Once it’s separated you can use an impact to remove the flex plate.

[Jcfcamaro]

Alot of hoist differ . The cheap ones dont have the longer legs that adjust out as far. Just remember how high up you have to lift it to clear the front end and at this same time you have to pull the hoist back to get the engine out.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

the Flex plate is bolted to the crank and the converter is bolted to the flex plate. Just loosen the converter bolts and then the bellhousing bolts to separate the trans when it’s put. Once it’s separated you can use an impact to remove the flex plate.

I think I understand. Looks like the plate bolts onto the crank "flange" from the rear. Is this right?

1. Loosen the flex plate to converter bolts (3-4 bolts). Or do I wait until after the engine/trans are pulled?

2. Pull engine and transmission, and place the transmission on a platform while still supporting the block.

3. Remove flex plate to converter bolts, and bell housing bolts.

4. Separate transmission from block.

5. Remove flex plate from crank.

6. Mount block onto engine stand, pop a beer and celebrate a stripped frame, which was a LONG time coming.

[FirstOwner69]

Here are some pictures of how I removed and reinstalled the 350/TH400 on my '69. The process is pretty much the same for small and big blocks. I removed the engine and transmission as a unit and installed them separately. I bought a transmission jack which helped the process significantly, especially the reassembly. I cut the heads off some 8" bolts and screwed them into the back of the block to act as guide pins for mating the engine and transmission.

Worked well for me.

Jim

[FirstOwner69]

A couple of reinstall videos I found helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIPyv2C_4&NR=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_nr...eature=related

[Bigdav160]

Is the sheet metal off the front of the truck or are you lifting it over the core support?

No reason not to take the torque converter bolts all the way out. Is the transmission drained? Still expect a mess of fluids including coolant.

[volksworld]

ok you might as well remove the converter bolts first...cause they're a lot more accessible from under the truck than they are with the whole mess sitting on the floor(impossible) or trying to break them loose while the engine is dangling from the crane....i personally prefer to remove the engine and trans separately because i work alone and it can be lowered straight down without needing a second person guiding the tailshaft of the trans so its not dragging along the floor of the truck...and when you knock the plug out of the tailshaft and dump tranny fluid all over the place it just adds to the fun...not having to lift something thats almost twice as heavy and not having to lift it twice as high adds to the safety factor if the equipment you're using isnt the greatest....if you pick it out by itself, its basically level and can be bolted right on the engine stand...if comes out trans and all it has to go on the floor to separate it so you have to be sure the chain is long enough to allow it to lower all the way to the ground....and sometimes a chain that long wont let you pick up the engine high enough for the trans to clear the radiator support on a tall vehicle like a truck...all engine hoists arent created equal so this may or not be an issue in your case....ok , im an idiot...i just re-read your post and realized you're doing this to a bare chassis....so most of what i just said is irrelevent

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

First Owner: Those pics come in handy Jim. The compensation on your equalizer for transmission is more than I'd imagined. You're using the outer bolt locations, which in my mind is best. But that option is out, thanks to the busted bolt & tap. I probably have the same equalizer you do, and as is, the outers aren't an option anyway.

Bigdav: Yeah, the frame is otherwise stripped, less the cross members anyway. The beauty of a full take-off is a clear shot at everything The transmission is drained. Just as well pull the plate to converter bolts off before the lift huh? Ah, I see Voltsworld's confirmation, good to know.

Voltsworld: My first thought was to pull the transmission first, and you give good points why. I'll leave it as an option. There will be a helping hand, but odds are great they know as much as I do.


Stripped frame......music to my ears. Thanks for the info.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Today I grabbed a Harbor Freight 2000 lb. engine stand - out the door for $116. I'll let you know how it works. I nearly grabbed a transmission jack as well, but 20% off one item. The jack is a luxury, though I haven't ruled one out.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Today I grabbed a Harbor Freight 2000 lb. engine stand - out the door for $116. I'll let you know how it works. I nearly grabbed a transmission jack as well, but 20% off one item. The jack is a luxury, though I haven't ruled one out.

The hoist and trans jack pictures in my post are both from Harbor Freight and worked fine. My hoist is the version with foldable legs.

[OBS454]

Use a good quality chain and at least Grade 5 bolts of minimum 3/8" shank threaded in at least 5 full rotations into holes with good threads. Don't get in a hurry and stay away from underneath the beast. Once the engine is suspended don't push it hard or fast to move it or allow the beast to swing. BTW when you set it down do it very slowly and if you put an old bath towel or something on the wood block base it will help to prevent denting the oil pan - damage to the pan can be difficult to repair.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Near as I can tell 1" bolts are in order, and I'll probably use grade 8.........Good idea for protecting the oil pan.

I MAY pull the transmission first. Either way, I just ordered a Goplus transmission jack at Amazon for $135. The Goplus is rated 1100 to Harbor Freights 800 ($144), but coincidentally, the height adjustments and pivots are exact. By my eyes, they're the same jack with different decals and paint. The frame construction is at least the same.

Matter of fact, at a glance Jegs sells the same jack too, in yellow (1000 Lb, $164).

[GASoline71]

I just use a lift plate bolted to the intake manifold with grade 8 bolts. Can lift the engine and trans with it.

Here is the engine on the hoist and we're lining up the transmission to bolt to it.



Here is the engine and trans sliding in the truck with the hoist.



Gary

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

You know, for the beginner like myself, it would be nice to be alerted to a dry engine hoist by the manufacturer. Only reason I knew to check was a review from a different item. And yeah, the thing took about 4/5 a quart. I even "purged" the system before I knew to check.

Their purge & fluid instructions are wrong too. You pretty well have to pull the ram to do both. Nothing unusual about bad instructions anymore. Made in China doesn't help.


.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

*&(*&%*%% imports. Amazing how far into the well we've gone. Great instructions - cough!

Edit: Just realize I'll need more than an engine block to exceed lift capacity. We'll set the piano on top of the transmission first, and then lift.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Apparently I'm pulling the engine and transmission separate. GOD DANG that transmission jack made this easy. Cool chain with the jack. Shame it doesn't wrap around a 400TH. I wasn't going to use it anyway. I didn't like the way the swivel ends fit around the transmission pan, but then thought nothing says you have to use both bolts for each arm. So I pulled one of the bolts, adjusted and everything lined up nicely.

I didn't have to hammer anything. Once the bolts were out it was separated. A little prying and presto. Can't wait to pull the engine Saturday. From there I'll figure some wheels for the frame, clean it up, blast and powder, and it's about time I started the better end, the build.


On a side, interesting set of bolts for the transmission to block. Can't swear they're factory, because we pulled the engine once. From my observation, we were real good about using the same bolts, and none were added.

Two (Grade 8) 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Heads are stamped with a circle.

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Head is stamped "A".

Two 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. These are unusual, because though they're flange bolts, the heads are not recessed. That and they have four markings, so I can't say what grade. The heads are stamped "IiL P SiB".

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.1/4", and no shaft. Head is stamped "M". This bolt was used to retain the transmission dipstick tube and vacuum retainers.

[harpo231]

Sometimes at some point ya just gotta get help .

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by harpo231

Sometimes at some point ya just gotta get help .

You guys were key man.......I'll have a helping hand or two to pull the engine.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Other than motor mounts and some cross members I've got a stripped frame - FINALLY. Boy have I learned a lot. Have to say some posts lost me on the torque converter spilling transmission fluid. Not a drop. I drained the transmission first, why wouldn't you? My boys helped pull the engine today (first pic).

We learned the hard way the boom on the hoist had to be fully extended to get the block onto the engine stand. Other than that smooth sailing. Per some suggestions, I picked up an old tire to set the block down, and it worked real well.