1969 C20 lower ball joint stuck

[gmebey]

I'm replacing all the front end hardware as part of my restoration project.

Things have be going well until I went to knock loose the lower ball joints. Even with a pickle fork I can't get them to pop. At this time I'm considering removing steering knuckle and brake backer plate to gain more access.

But before I wanted some advice.

So please help.

[leddzepp]

Loosen the castle nut, leaving it still attached with enough threads so it doesn't come flying off. Use a hand held sledge hammer and smack the spindle HARD. I have never failed to remove one in this manner, it will pop loose. You want the castle nut to keep the spring from flying out when the ball joint pops loose.

[trac209]

Or you could get a ball joint press. Most auto parts stores have or will rent them out

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by trac209

Or you could get a ball joint press. Most auto parts stores have or will rent them out

He is talking about removing the spindle from the ball joint...not the ball joint from the control arm (in which case, yes, it would need to be pressed out)

[trac209]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

He is talking about removing the spindle from the ball joint...not the ball joint from the control arm (in which case, yes, it would need to be pressed out)

Whoops, yes I didn't read that right.

[NC67Chev]

I agree that whacking it with a sledge should knock it loose, but I've found a gentler way that works well for me. I make a "spreader" by using the lower shock mount bolt, a 3/4" socket and an oversized socket like a 1 1/16". The oversized one just goes over the top ball joint nut and rests against the spindle. The 3/4" socket sits upside down on top of the loosened bottom ball joint nut. (You might have to use another 3/4" nut as a spacer inside of the lower socket depending on how long the top socket is) Once you have it in position, a few turns with a big 3/4" open end wrench will pop it loose. This is how I ended up getting the original ball joints loose on my '67. You can then reverse it to pop the upper one loose if you need to.

[gmebey]

WOW! A simple press! I will give it a try. Thank you

[bollybib]

@ NC67Chev: Very clever, I'll have to remember that one.

[72bowtiestepper]

Thanks for that tip NC67chev.......a simple idea that works well...I like it !

[gmebey]

Update.

NC67chev..... You rock!!!!!

I tried your method using a grade 8 fine thread bolt and to my surprise it worked.

There was no hammering, prying or cheater bar needed. A simple 3/4" wrench is all it took!!!

However I did oil the threads on the bolt.

My only regret was not knowing this trick before I mushroomed my pickle fork.

[NC67Chev]

Originally Posted by gmebey

Update.

NC67chev..... You rock!!!!!

I tried your method using a grade 8 fine thread bolt and to my surprise it worked.

There was no hammering, prying or cheater bar needed. A simple 3/4" wrench is all it took!!!

However I did oil the threads on the bolt.

My only regret was not knowing this trick before I mushroomed my pickle fork.

I'm glad it worked out for you. I tried for 2 days to get mine loose and then I came up with this idea. I had them loose within minutes once I got the right combination of sockets figured out.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by gmebey

Update.

NC67chev..... You rock!!!!!

I tried your method using a grade 8 fine thread bolt and to my surprise it worked.

There was no hammering, prying or cheater bar needed. A simple 3/4" wrench is all it took!!!

However I did oil the threads on the bolt.

My only regret was not knowing this trick before I mushroomed my pickle fork.

It's known as good old American Ingenuity...... Glad you got it off.

LockDoc

[gmebey]

The sad part was I thought of using a simple press but could figure out a simple implementation.

It took me less than 10 minutes to both sides.

Again thanks for sharing!

[Soulbilly]

Originally Posted by gmebey

The sad part was I thought of using a simple press but could figure out a simple implementation.

It took me less than 10 minutes to both sides.

Again thanks for sharing!

Wish I could say the same. I've tried every method here, and that SOB won't budge!
Posted via Mobile Device

[mk3barti]

Have you tried using heat? I couldn't get mine to budge on my 67 until I got it really hot. Still took 5 hits with a big sledge but it finally came loose.

[Soulbilly]

Originally Posted by mk3barti

Have you tried using heat? I couldn't get mine to budge on my 67 until I got it really hot. Still took 5 hits with a big sledge but it finally came loose.

Thanks, man. I finally got the bugger loose. Combined simple press, pickle fork, and a bigger hammer. What's that saying? "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer."

[mk3barti]

Nice work! A bigger hammer never fails

[RenoKeene]

Pickle fork in a air chisel works pretty good also "as seen on TV".

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by NC67Chev

I agree that whacking it with a sledge should knock it loose, but I've found a gentler way that works well for me. I make a "spreader" by using the lower shock mount bolt, a 3/4" socket and an oversized socket like a 1 1/16". The oversized one just goes over the top ball joint nut and rests against the spindle. The 3/4" socket sits upside down on top of the loosened bottom ball joint nut. (You might have to use another 3/4" nut as a spacer inside of the lower socket depending on how long the top socket is) Once you have it in position, a few turns with a big 3/4" open end wrench will pop it loose. This is how I ended up getting the original ball joints loose on my '67. You can then reverse it to pop the upper one loose if you need to.

I used this trick today on a 71 front end. It worked like a charm.

[mike16]

brilliant!. I cannot count the number of times this would have worked for me.

[Dembones]

Although this is an older post, NC67CHEV's wisdom lives on. . . .
After applying SIGNIFICANT force on my stuck ball joint with a BFH and pickle fork and not being able to break it loose, I found this thread. So I dug out a 3" grade 8 bolt and the right size sockets, put the joint under pressure, hit it once and it popped right away. EXCELLENT advice. Thank you!

[wesmigletz]

This tip has saved me more than once.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by trac209

Or you could get a ball joint press. Most auto parts stores have or will rent them out

Most of the ones in rentals I am told will not get the job done. I made a extraction tool with some simple nuts and bolts from the hardware store. The upper still has to be in to get it done.

Use a torch to heat the stud of the ball joint, then hit it with a hose. The thermal shock from hot to cold will loosen it.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by NC67Chev

I agree that whacking it with a sledge should knock it loose, but I've found a gentler way that works well for me. I make a "spreader" by using the lower shock mount bolt, a 3/4" socket and an oversized socket like a 1 1/16". The oversized one just goes over the top ball joint nut and rests against the spindle. The 3/4" socket sits upside down on top of the loosened bottom ball joint nut. (You might have to use another 3/4" nut as a spacer inside of the lower socket depending on how long the top socket is) Once you have it in position, a few turns with a big 3/4" open end wrench will pop it loose. This is how I ended up getting the original ball joints loose on my '67. You can then reverse it to pop the upper one loose if you need to.

This is how I've always done it. I think I use the same bolt my dad used. I have substituted a spark plug socket on the bottom so there is a place to put a wrench and keep the bottom from turning.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by HO455

This is how I've always done it. I think I use the same bolt my dad used. I have substituted a spark plug socket on the bottom so there is a place to put a wrench and keep the bottom from turning.

Very well thought out!