Check my work please- wheel bearings

[JointTech]

I put on new rotors and wheel bearings.
The rotors had the race already pressed in.
The inner bearing seal is what has me concerned.
It sits about 1/8" over the rim of the hub and i can move the bearing up and down about an 1/8"

I looked at the the old rotor and it seemed to be the same way.

is that normal?

How is the rubber seal part supposed to sit in relation to the bearing? I used a tiny screwdriver and pushed it back behind the bearing. Kinid of ran it around the outside of the bearing while somebody was holding the bearing up against the seal.

[tony58]

Sounds normal. The seal lip will be snug around the spindle when you install the rotor, the bearing will be secured when you tighten the castle nut, there is no contact between the inner bearing and the seal when installed. don't tighten the castle nut excessivly, tapered bearings do not like to be too tight.

[domeier]

The seal should be flush with the hub if I remember right. You can use a mallet and a the butt end of a 2x4 to tap it down squarely. Bearings should be adjusted to zero-play, and if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up there, then back the axle nut to the next cotter pin hole looser. The hub should spin freely, if there's any resistance, it'll burn the bearing.

[JointTech]

Seal seems to be bottoming out on the race. Looking at the old rotor that still has the seal in it it looks the same. seems strange to me though.
i dont have a micrometer but the seal seems to be taller than the distance from the race to the lip.

hub spins freely when mounted and has no play side to side or up/down.

[WIDESIDE72]

Not to insult you, but o. A related note, did you pack the bearings correctly? Years ago i sold an engine to a fellow who had a 69 or 70 c10. When he went to leave, i noticed the left front wheel wasnt turning as fast as the other wheels and was dragging. He said he had just installed new shoes and packed the wheel bearings the day before. When we pulled it apart the bearing was welded to the spindle. Luckily i had a parts truck and we used that spindle and bearings. I cleaned and inspected the old bearing, but when we went to pack them i found the cause of the failure. He didnt know how to pack the bearing correctly and was just smearing grease on the outside. I showed him how to get the grease in there by actually packing the grease in. I have since bought one of those two piece cones that you use with a grease gun. They are quicker and less messy.
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[WIDESIDE72]

We also tore the other side down in my driveway and checked those bearings as well. The inner was about to fail and had to be replaced.
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[JointTech]

Not to insult you, but o

what do you mean "but o"?
not insulted... i used a cone bearing packer attached to my air grease gun.
i smeared grease on the race.
i covered the spindle in grease out to the threads.
I also covered myself in grease and ran around naked. neighbors thought i was weird.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by JointTech

what do you mean "but o"?
not insulted... i used a cone bearing packer attached to my air grease gun.
i smeared grease on the race.
i covered the spindle in grease out to the threads.
I also covered myself in grease and ran around naked. neighbors thought i was weird.

I am using my phone and meant to type "on a related note".

It sounds like you have it unde crontrol!
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[domeier]

Originally Posted by JointTech

Seal seems to be bottoming out on the race. Looking at the old rotor that still has the seal in it it looks the same. seems strange to me though.
i dont have a micrometer but the seal seems to be taller than the distance from the race to the lip.

hub spins freely when mounted and has no play side to side or up/down.

As long as the seal isn't preventing the bearing to set into the race, you're good. I have one of those 2-cone bearing packers too. It's a good tool.