Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

DieselEater · 02-27-2011, 10:52 PM

Didn't find the answer I was looking for in Search.....

Is a Mustang II, or an S-10 an easy light option for 67-72 frames? Is it an easy swap?

Or Is the aftermarket a better option?

I took my SWB frame apart for sandblasting and such, and did not realize how heavy and bulky the 2wd front ends were!!!

Have an 82 Mustang in back yard, and gonna buy a drag chassis from S-10 with four link and narrowed 9 inch.

Could I adapt my body to an S-10 chassis?

Any help would be great!

A.........

Super73 · 02-28-2011, 12:06 AM

I have been thinking long and hard on this. I think I am going to go C4 for the front of mine when I do it. Alum control arms (Uppers are similar to ours), aftermarket light weight brakes and I don't think it would be too hard to fab it up and make it work. I don't think it would be that expensive either. Check out E-bay and your local craigslist. I have seen complete cut outs from vettes for $500-$750. This even included part of the frame rails, factory brakes, rack an pinion etc..

Looks easy to do a coil over set up etc.. Here is one right now for $400: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-86...Q5fAccessories

djracer · 02-28-2011, 09:39 PM

I run a Fatman's Mustang II setup. Its pretty light.

team39763 · 02-28-2011, 11:55 PM

Isn't there a member from here working on a setup? Has he spilled the beans yet? It sounded like it was gonna be good.

**Captainfab** · 03-01-2011, 12:15 AM

I do know that Nate @ Porterbuilt was working on a coil over version of his drop member. I don't know just how much lighter the dropmember is than a stock suspension. You might contact him and see what he has to say.

http://www.porterbuiltstreetrods.com

Quote:

Originally Posted by team39763

Isn't there a member from here working on a setup? Has he spilled the beans yet? It sounded like it was gonna be good.

djracer · 03-01-2011, 08:42 AM

Paul Baxter with the blue step side has built his own setup. He mentioned selling them at some point.

kpeztruck · 03-01-2011, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by team39763

Isn't there a member from here working on a setup? Has he spilled the beans yet? It sounded like it was gonna be good.

Yes, it is coming along well. I just secured my last vendor. Got to finish up jigs off of the originals that are for my truck, then build a couple. Should be ready for market mid-to-end of April. I never would have believed that it took this much time to secure vendors that can meet my needs, so I can ship in a reasonable amount of time. Just got that straightened away today. Thanks for interest, and look for advertisement on this site soon. Thanks, Paul Baxter

Super73 · 03-01-2011, 06:45 PM

Paul,

Can you give us a little info on what your are doing? I'd hate to go buy a bunch of C4 stuff to find out you have a bolt in kit for a decent price saving me time and energy in fabbing my own up.

So a couple questions I would love to get answers on:

Does it include a cross member? If so, Round or Square tube?
Is it a coil over based set up?
Is it rack based?
Guess on how much front travel it will have?
Material used (Mild steel, Chrome Alloy, Alum)
What spindle does it use?
As far as adjustability, any idea how much camber and caster? (More concerned with Caster)
Is it going to be available with/with out brakes and spings/shocks?

That would be a great start..

kpeztruck · 03-01-2011, 11:07 PM

Super73,

It is a coil-over based, with a removable round tube crossmember, made of a combination of mild steel and chromoly, It had 3.6 degrees of built-in caster, and I set mine at 4.5 degrees for now. Please note, plenty of adjustability utilizing the familiar shim set-up. Comes with a manual rack and pinion, Wilwood racing brakes, hard brake lines, tubular upper and lower control arms, engine mounts, and steering shaft and joints. You should only have to fabricate one brake line, from the master/combination valve, down to the tee for the front brakes. This line is not being offered, due to the differing combinations being run. You should be able to bolt it in, bleed the brakes, and take to an alignment shop in a day. It has roughly 4.5-5.0 inches of wheel travel. It will come with single adjustable coil-overs, with springs. It also uses a Mustang II spindle. I weighed the factory suspension/brakes/steering in at 360+ lbs. We still have yet to weigh the new prototype, but guessing just over 110 lbs. You can not buy that kind of weight loss for any less. Again folks, I still have to build duplicates off of the jigs, and install on the test truck to verfiy fit and quality. I hope I answered all of your questions, and a few more that did not get asked. Thanks, Paul Baxter

Super73 · 03-02-2011, 02:53 AM

Paul,

Thanks for answering my questions. It stemed a some more

How long is the actual coil over?
Are you going to be offering several different spring rates?
Are you going to offer more than one brake package?
Will the brake line be stainless or at least have that option?
Will it be available with out motor mounts? (I have a motor plate)
Will the control arm ends be heims or a poly bushing?

Thanks for taking the time to answer all of these questions.. It is sounding like something I might be willing to spring for. Although, I do love the hands on part of fabricating something

I guess price will have to persued me otherwise..

kpeztruck · 03-02-2011, 09:46 AM

Super73,

The system can have different options very easily. As you know, any increase in cost will cause an increase in price. Let me know what you would like. At this time, I have only created brake lines out of coated steel. I would have to find and price stainless to see what we are looking at for that option. Yes any spring rate in a 7 inch spring should be available. The engine mounts have been added at no additional price increase, so, we can leave them out or ship them as desired. The uppers have the steel type bushings that move as easy as an heim, the lowers are with bushings. I do have the option of going to a monaball on the lowers at additional cost. I will have to get the part # for the shocks to give you actual length later.

Thanks again, Paul

chevytruck1970 · 05-05-2011, 01:50 AM

hey paul any updates on your front suspension setup

kpeztruck · 05-06-2011, 09:11 AM

Yes, my chassis man is building the jigs this week. I need this done, so I can have my parts back. I wanna race the truck so bad right now. It has not been on a track in 4+ years. Time to get this done for everyone here too. I should know soemthing soon. Thanks for asking, Paul Baxter

71Dragtruck · 09-08-2013, 01:04 AM

I'm upping this old thread in search of info if this project ever took off and if Paul's product is now available or not?
Posted via Mobile Device

SweetandLong68 · 09-08-2013, 05:01 PM

I would love to hear about this as well.... Any updates?

Thanks
CHRIS

skeeterbug · 09-11-2013, 02:10 PM

bump, to bring it back to life. I need an option this fall, been looking real hard at chris alstons stuff. Like super 73 i may pull the trigger on building my own stuff, i got the welding skills may try something tubular with c4 arms. I just wonder if 1-5/8 tubing constructed front clip would be strong enough for our heavy trucks? Anyone currently running tubular front clip of any kind like ca chassisworks, competition engineering, tim mcamis.....?

Marv D · 09-11-2013, 03:51 PM

Alston makes some REAL nice stuff. BUT,, it's very proprietary,, you start with Alston and you can't just run out and buy pieces from Competition Engineering or S&W or Bickel and expect it to fit. There are industry standards in ball joints and bushings that Alston prefers to make themselves. VERY little is outsourced which is both good and bad. I honestly believe Chris makes a better mouse trap. But have a problem at a race and your not going to just find a part laying around the pits unless it's another Chassisworks customer.

One thing for sure tho, a Chassisworks bar is the best fitting pre-bent bar I have seen. Just furthering that thought that Alston makes a VERY fine product.

As far as supporting the weight of a truck,,, I've dropped 1800 pounds from 6feet in the air onto this and it's still rock solid. And it's a 'bolt on'. How it's engineered I think makes a big difference in durability and load capacity.

This was just the mock-up of the built clip from AJE I don't know if he's making trucks clips yet, but I bet he's making something that will work. If your going tube chassis, do it right and do it one end to the other. After doing a back-half, then a front-clip,, what the heck do you do with the heavy chunk of flimsy frame in the middle!!!

71Dragtruck · 10-03-2013, 01:03 AM

I think I'm going to jump on this band wagon and get a bolt in IFS with Mustang II spindles, spoke to Justin at Scott's and they can option it out exact like I want.
Only thing that seems to be the norm for this type kit is it narrows my front track width a bit, don't really like that but they explained why it has to be done that way.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=597791

chevytruck1970 · 10-05-2013, 10:08 PM

How much $$$

71Dragtruck · 10-05-2013, 10:45 PM

Under 4k optioned the way I want with the group buy discount.

I optioned on mine, bolt in, full Willwood brakes and hubs slotted and drilled, Afco shocks, powder coated, brake lines, no sway bar, manual rack, Mustang II spindles, 3" drop.

softballnrd27 · 10-06-2013, 03:28 AM

Please start a good install thread. I would love to see how it turns out and how it rides.

71Dragtruck · 10-06-2013, 01:53 PM

Not sure my install will make a good thread, I've decided I'm going to try without pulling the motor, just going to pull the headers, support the motor remove mounts and have at it, if it fails I'll then pull the motor.

It will be a good month or more before it gets here, and then I'll be in no rush to get it in, have all winter to work on it.

alex71gmc · 10-07-2013, 06:18 PM

71dragtruck,

How much does there kit narrow the front end and what was there explanation as to why it has to be done this way?

71Dragtruck · 10-07-2013, 06:53 PM

1.5" a side, and to mainly keep the geometry correct plus center the wheel more in the wheelwell, most of the mustang II IFS kits I looked at are like this, they are all based off of specs that the original front end was designed around, and if changed throw out all the numbers. My new rims are going to be narrower but have less backspace so I'll only loose 1" a side so won't really be that noticable.

drag80 · 10-14-2013, 11:38 AM

i put one of these in my 80 C-10 and it bolted right in, was a simple install for sure. They make a nice piece. The only thing is i'm probably a few years away from getting to drive it, and actually getting to test it out. So i'm kinda interested in how yours works out in the end. Do you ever come to medicine hat to race?

02-27-2011, 10:52 PM	#1
DieselEater Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Trinidad, Colorado Posts: 642	Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Didn't find the answer I was looking for in Search..... Is a Mustang II, or an S-10 an easy light option for 67-72 frames? Is it an easy swap? Or Is the aftermarket a better option? I took my SWB frame apart for sandblasting and such, and did not realize how heavy and bulky the 2wd front ends were!!! Have an 82 Mustang in back yard, and gonna buy a drag chassis from S-10 with four link and narrowed 9 inch. Could I adapt my body to an S-10 chassis? Any help would be great! A......... __________________ 69' 3/4 4X4 470ci BBC 700 HP.... D60/14bolt 205/465 http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...ndid=127691959

02-28-2011, 12:06 AM	#2
Super73 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,841	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? I have been thinking long and hard on this. I think I am going to go C4 for the front of mine when I do it. Alum control arms (Uppers are similar to ours), aftermarket light weight brakes and I don't think it would be too hard to fab it up and make it work. I don't think it would be that expensive either. Check out E-bay and your local craigslist. I have seen complete cut outs from vettes for $500-$750. This even included part of the frame rails, factory brakes, rack an pinion etc.. Looks easy to do a coil over set up etc.. Here is one right now for $400: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-86...Q5fAccessories __________________ ------Motor---------------Bottle 60'---1.53---------------1.41 1/8---6.58 @ 105.92----5.87 @ 118.41 1/4---10.38 @ 126.97----9.24 @ 142.49 Last edited by Super73; 02-28-2011 at 12:11 AM.

02-28-2011, 09:39 PM	#3
djracer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wetumpka, Al, U.S. Posts: 8,891	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? I run a Fatman's Mustang II setup. Its pretty light. __________________ Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!

02-28-2011, 11:55 PM	#4
team39763 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 469	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Isn't there a member from here working on a setup? Has he spilled the beans yet? It sounded like it was gonna be good. __________________ 1982 Silverado - SBE, cleaned up GM heads, small cam, TH350, 850 Demon, 4.56 gears, and caltracs. Best time so far 11.8@XXXMPH

03-01-2011, 08:42 AM	#6
djracer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wetumpka, Al, U.S. Posts: 8,891	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Paul Baxter with the blue step side has built his own setup. He mentioned selling them at some point. __________________ Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!

03-01-2011, 06:45 PM	#8
Super73 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,841	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Paul, Can you give us a little info on what your are doing? I'd hate to go buy a bunch of C4 stuff to find out you have a bolt in kit for a decent price saving me time and energy in fabbing my own up. So a couple questions I would love to get answers on: Does it include a cross member? If so, Round or Square tube? Is it a coil over based set up? Is it rack based? Guess on how much front travel it will have? Material used (Mild steel, Chrome Alloy, Alum) What spindle does it use? As far as adjustability, any idea how much camber and caster? (More concerned with Caster) Is it going to be available with/with out brakes and spings/shocks? That would be a great start.. __________________ ------Motor---------------Bottle 60'---1.53---------------1.41 1/8---6.58 @ 105.92----5.87 @ 118.41 1/4---10.38 @ 126.97----9.24 @ 142.49 Last edited by Super73; 03-01-2011 at 06:46 PM.

03-01-2011, 11:07 PM	#9
kpeztruck Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 229	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Super73, It is a coil-over based, with a removable round tube crossmember, made of a combination of mild steel and chromoly, It had 3.6 degrees of built-in caster, and I set mine at 4.5 degrees for now. Please note, plenty of adjustability utilizing the familiar shim set-up. Comes with a manual rack and pinion, Wilwood racing brakes, hard brake lines, tubular upper and lower control arms, engine mounts, and steering shaft and joints. You should only have to fabricate one brake line, from the master/combination valve, down to the tee for the front brakes. This line is not being offered, due to the differing combinations being run. You should be able to bolt it in, bleed the brakes, and take to an alignment shop in a day. It has roughly 4.5-5.0 inches of wheel travel. It will come with single adjustable coil-overs, with springs. It also uses a Mustang II spindle. I weighed the factory suspension/brakes/steering in at 360+ lbs. We still have yet to weigh the new prototype, but guessing just over 110 lbs. You can not buy that kind of weight loss for any less. Again folks, I still have to build duplicates off of the jigs, and install on the test truck to verfiy fit and quality. I hope I answered all of your questions, and a few more that did not get asked. Thanks, Paul Baxter

03-02-2011, 02:53 AM	#10
Super73 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,841	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Paul, Thanks for answering my questions. It stemed a some more How long is the actual coil over? Are you going to be offering several different spring rates? Are you going to offer more than one brake package? Will the brake line be stainless or at least have that option? Will it be available with out motor mounts? (I have a motor plate) Will the control arm ends be heims or a poly bushing? Thanks for taking the time to answer all of these questions.. It is sounding like something I might be willing to spring for. Although, I do love the hands on part of fabricating something I guess price will have to persued me otherwise.. __________________ ------Motor---------------Bottle 60'---1.53---------------1.41 1/8---6.58 @ 105.92----5.87 @ 118.41 1/4---10.38 @ 126.97----9.24 @ 142.49

03-02-2011, 09:46 AM	#11
kpeztruck Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 229	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Super73, The system can have different options very easily. As you know, any increase in cost will cause an increase in price. Let me know what you would like. At this time, I have only created brake lines out of coated steel. I would have to find and price stainless to see what we are looking at for that option. Yes any spring rate in a 7 inch spring should be available. The engine mounts have been added at no additional price increase, so, we can leave them out or ship them as desired. The uppers have the steel type bushings that move as easy as an heim, the lowers are with bushings. I do have the option of going to a monaball on the lowers at additional cost. I will have to get the part # for the shocks to give you actual length later. Thanks again, Paul

05-05-2011, 01:50 AM	#12
chevytruck1970 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Stilwell, OK Posts: 83	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? hey paul any updates on your front suspension setup __________________ Justin weight 3480 with driver 1.35 60ft 6.13@111mph 1/8 mile 9.80@131mph 1/4 mile 434 small block all motor

05-06-2011, 09:11 AM	#13
kpeztruck Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 229	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Yes, my chassis man is building the jigs this week. I need this done, so I can have my parts back. I wanna race the truck so bad right now. It has not been on a track in 4+ years. Time to get this done for everyone here too. I should know soemthing soon. Thanks for asking, Paul Baxter

09-08-2013, 01:04 AM	#14
71Dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,368	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? I'm upping this old thread in search of info if this project ever took off and if Paul's product is now available or not? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Speed is just a matter of money, question is how fast can you afford to go? 8.95@148.97mph all motor haven't tried bottle yet Sponsored by: Getz Oilfield Consulting Hard Candy Customs

09-08-2013, 05:01 PM	#15
SweetandLong68 Your UncleBen Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Indian Trail, NC Posts: 590	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? I would love to hear about this as well.... Any updates? Thanks CHRIS __________________ 68 C10 shortbed -- Street/Strip

09-11-2013, 02:10 PM	#16
skeeterbug Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: watertown, tn Posts: 332	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? bump, to bring it back to life. I need an option this fall, been looking real hard at chris alstons stuff. Like super 73 i may pull the trigger on building my own stuff, i got the welding skills may try something tubular with c4 arms. I just wonder if 1-5/8 tubing constructed front clip would be strong enough for our heavy trucks? Anyone currently running tubular front clip of any kind like ca chassisworks, competition engineering, tim mcamis.....? __________________ '71 LWB c10-"WORK" in progress 385 ci 4 bolt (4.040 bore), scat 6.0" forged h beams,scat forged crank 3.750, speed pro 5cc flat top, clevite bearings, .039 head gaskets,comp xr288hr 110* 288/294adv. 236/242@.50 555/576 lift, pbm hyd roller lifters, chad spiers 215cc imp. heads , comp 1.6 roler rockers, comp magnum push rods, edelbrock victor jr. single plane intake p&p (1206 gasket matched), quickfuel 750R DP , th 350 trans, 5.14 gear, 3000 stall 2012 best 1/8- 7.70 @ 87mph 1.70 60' (lil better) 2013 best 7.39 2014 best-7.38 New for 2013-strange rear coilovers, headman 1-3/4 headers, 5.13 r&p, .060 aluminum bed floor, 15x14 holeshots w/ 31x18.5 hoosier dot pro's, 15x4 holeshots w/ 26x5.5 m/t skinnies and 200+#'s in body weight loss & 6 point cage

09-11-2013, 03:51 PM	#17
Marv D Registered Truck Offender Join Date: May 2008 Location: hells training ground (aka Ariz) Posts: 3,118	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Alston makes some REAL nice stuff. BUT,, it's very proprietary,, you start with Alston and you can't just run out and buy pieces from Competition Engineering or S&W or Bickel and expect it to fit. There are industry standards in ball joints and bushings that Alston prefers to make themselves. VERY little is outsourced which is both good and bad. I honestly believe Chris makes a better mouse trap. But have a problem at a race and your not going to just find a part laying around the pits unless it's another Chassisworks customer. One thing for sure tho, a Chassisworks bar is the best fitting pre-bent bar I have seen. Just furthering that thought that Alston makes a VERY fine product. As far as supporting the weight of a truck,,, I've dropped 1800 pounds from 6feet in the air onto this and it's still rock solid. And it's a 'bolt on'. How it's engineered I think makes a big difference in durability and load capacity. This was just the mock-up of the built clip from AJE I don't know if he's making trucks clips yet, but I bet he's making something that will work. If your going tube chassis, do it right and do it one end to the other. After doing a back-half, then a front-clip,, what the heck do you do with the heavy chunk of flimsy frame in the middle!!! __________________ Still playin with trucks, even at my age! When you're dead, it's only a problem for the people around you, because you don't know you're dead. .....It's kinda the same when your STUPID. I just did my taxes and reviewed my SS statement. Thanks to the current administration it looks like I will only have to work till noon on the day of my funeral.



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10-03-2013, 01:03 AM	#18
71Dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,368	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? I think I'm going to jump on this band wagon and get a bolt in IFS with Mustang II spindles, spoke to Justin at Scott's and they can option it out exact like I want. Only thing that seems to be the norm for this type kit is it narrows my front track width a bit, don't really like that but they explained why it has to be done that way. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=597791 __________________ Speed is just a matter of money, question is how fast can you afford to go? 8.95@148.97mph all motor haven't tried bottle yet Sponsored by: Getz Oilfield Consulting Hard Candy Customs Last edited by 71Dragtruck; 10-03-2013 at 01:08 AM.

10-05-2013, 10:08 PM	#19
chevytruck1970 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Stilwell, OK Posts: 83	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? How much $$$ __________________ Justin weight 3480 with driver 1.35 60ft 6.13@111mph 1/8 mile 9.80@131mph 1/4 mile 434 small block all motor

10-05-2013, 10:45 PM	#20
71Dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,368	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Under 4k optioned the way I want with the group buy discount. I optioned on mine, bolt in, full Willwood brakes and hubs slotted and drilled, Afco shocks, powder coated, brake lines, no sway bar, manual rack, Mustang II spindles, 3" drop. __________________ Speed is just a matter of money, question is how fast can you afford to go? 8.95@148.97mph all motor haven't tried bottle yet Sponsored by: Getz Oilfield Consulting Hard Candy Customs Last edited by 71Dragtruck; 10-05-2013 at 11:12 PM.

10-06-2013, 03:28 AM	#21
softballnrd27 Always a work in progress Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Harker Heights, TX Posts: 1,599	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Please start a good install thread. I would love to see how it turns out and how it rides. __________________ USMC Retired Never trust a man who can't laugh at his own fart! 2010 Silverado Crew Cab 73 SWB 5.3/4l80e Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=695168

10-06-2013, 01:53 PM	#22
71Dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,368	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? Not sure my install will make a good thread, I've decided I'm going to try without pulling the motor, just going to pull the headers, support the motor remove mounts and have at it, if it fails I'll then pull the motor. It will be a good month or more before it gets here, and then I'll be in no rush to get it in, have all winter to work on it. __________________ Speed is just a matter of money, question is how fast can you afford to go? 8.95@148.97mph all motor haven't tried bottle yet Sponsored by: Getz Oilfield Consulting Hard Candy Customs

10-07-2013, 06:18 PM	#23
alex71gmc Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: brookfield Posts: 1	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? 71dragtruck, How much does there kit narrow the front end and what was there explanation as to why it has to be done this way?

10-07-2013, 06:53 PM	#24
71Dragtruck Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,368	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? 1.5" a side, and to mainly keep the geometry correct plus center the wheel more in the wheelwell, most of the mustang II IFS kits I looked at are like this, they are all based off of specs that the original front end was designed around, and if changed throw out all the numbers. My new rims are going to be narrower but have less backspace so I'll only loose 1" a side so won't really be that noticable. __________________ Speed is just a matter of money, question is how fast can you afford to go? 8.95@148.97mph all motor haven't tried bottle yet Sponsored by: Getz Oilfield Consulting Hard Candy Customs

10-14-2013, 11:38 AM	#25
drag80 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: alberta, canada Posts: 32	Re: Best Drag front end to replace factory anchor? i put one of these in my 80 C-10 and it bolted right in, was a simple install for sure. They make a nice piece. The only thing is i'm probably a few years away from getting to drive it, and actually getting to test it out. So i'm kinda interested in how yours works out in the end. Do you ever come to medicine hat to race?

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