Suspension Questions for my '71 K5..

[bigeasycigars]

Greetings all,

Looking for best overall set up for my rig. I drive 90% on road. Off road consisting of trails, desert, shallow mud, no real rock crawling. Nothing too extreme, for the moment anyway. I'm running MTZ's 33 x 12.5 x 15. The lift now is an oldschool set up giving about a 2-3" lift. I'd like to go no more than 4". That said. What might be the best set up for me to go.

1. Shocks (Best brand/size)?
2. Front (Springs/Brand)?
3. Rear (Springs/Brand or might a shackle flip be a better option?)
4. Body mounts (There are a few out there what works best?)
5. Front end (Any tips on steering stabilizers and I need to replace worn out ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. just seeking the best parts to do a full rebuild)

Not seeking a budget lift and rebuild. Just like to do it right and have my rig sit level as well.

Sorry if I have posted a lot but help would be greatly appreciated.

[elks]

Well, My personal favorite is using Alcan Springs in Grand Junction, Colorado. They will make a set of springs custom to your situation. They will ask you a variety of questions and build spring in accordance. I really like my set up and will take some pics in the next couple days. The only thing I would change would be a more flexible spring. That might cause some issues on the high way at 65...

[Yukon Jack]

I'd shoot for new rear springs out back. The shackle flip will cause your axle to move forward and puts the tire very close to the front edge of the fender. Can be corrected with a Zero-Rate that allows you to change the center pin position. Getting these trucks to sit level can be a bit tricky. When I swapped in a 14 bolt, I got mine sitting how I wanted by custom making the rear spring perches and using a 3" block. I'd shoot for it sitting level with the top on and with the top off it will be a little high in the rear but not bad in my opinion.

As elks mentioned, for the best ride, a custom set of springs will be the way to go. I like the Tuff Country springs on my K20 but it is a bit bouncy. Custom springs and quality shocks should get you a great ride. I like the Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks and hear great things about Bilstein shocks. You may want to get your springs picked and installed to know exactly what length of shock you'll need.

I'd definitely go with rubber body mounts rather than urethane with your use description.

For front end parts you can't go wrong with Moog parts.

[bigeasycigars]

Originally Posted by elks

Well, My personal favorite is using Alcan Springs in Grand Junction, Colorado. They will make a set of springs custom to your situation. They will ask you a variety of questions and build spring in accordance. I really like my set up and will take some pics in the next couple days. The only thing I would change would be a more flexible spring. That might cause some issues on the high way at 65...

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

I'd shoot for new rear springs out back. The shackle flip will cause your axle to move forward and puts the tire very close to the front edge of the fender. Can be corrected with a Zero-Rate that allows you to change the center pin position. Getting these trucks to sit level can be a bit tricky. When I swapped in a 14 bolt, I got mine sitting how I wanted by custom making the rear spring perches and using a 3" block. I'd shoot for it sitting level with the top on and with the top off it will be a little high in the rear but not bad in my opinion.

As elks mentioned, for the best ride, a custom set of springs will be the way to go. I like the Tuff Country springs on my K20 but it is a bit bouncy. Custom springs and quality shocks should get you a great ride. I like the Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks and hear great things about Bilstein shocks. You may want to get your springs picked and installed to know exactly what length of shock you'll need.

I'd definitely go with rubber body mounts rather than urethane with your use description.

For front end parts you can't go wrong with Moog parts.

Thanks for the suggestions..So many options..Just wanting to do it right the first time with little or no redux.

[bigeasycigars]

Originally Posted by bigeasycigars

Greetings all,

Looking for best overall set up for my rig. I drive 90% on road. Off road consisting of trails, desert, shallow mud, no real rock crawling. Nothing too extreme, for the moment anyway. I'm running MTZ's 33 x 12.5 x 15. The lift now is an oldschool set up giving about a 2-3" lift. I'd like to go no more than 4". That said. What might be the best set up for me to go.

1. Shocks (Best brand/size)?
2. Front (Springs/Brand)?
3. Rear (Springs/Brand or might a shackle flip be a better option?)
4. Body mounts (There are a few out there what works best?)
5. Front end (Any tips on steering stabilizers and I need to replace worn out ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. just seeking the best parts to do a full rebuild)

Not seeking a budget lift and rebuild. Just like to do it right and have my rig sit level as well.

Sorry if I have posted a lot but help would be greatly appreciated.

Love to hear some more ideas regarding suspension.

[blazin]

i just installed a all spring sky jacker 6 inch lift.. if i had my time back i would have done 4 link. and still might... once my back is broke from the stiff bouncy ride of a spring lift.

[Cap'n Hook]

Would like to hear more on the 4-link setups!

[blazin]

i dont know alot about them.. other then they ride way better, work better and cost more lol. i spent about 2300 canadian for my 6 inch lift and i could of had a friend fab up and install a four link for 3000.. he has it on his custom jeep and it rides great. here is a pic of his jeep. im told you can get kits.

[bigeasycigars]

Any suggestions on a front end rebuild (Any tips on steering stabilizers and I need to replace worn out ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. just seeking the best parts to do a full rebuild)

[AlaskaMatt]

I will go with the others and say custom springs. Also inquire about 2 stage setups. Basically the first couple of springs are softer to soak up the normal bumps and improve the road ride, but the rest can handle a load and more severe absorption needs. Along the same lines parabolic springs are supposed to do the same thing in a continuously increasing absorption rate.

I have lift springs and blocks in the rear and don't like it. In my looking around what I mentioned above seems the most practical.

You might also look into velvet ride shackles. People claim they are great, but who knows?

[chevyblazer]

1.shocks rancho
2.font springs super lift
3.rear springs super lift shackle not necesary unless you rock c.
4.body mounts dont no always build mind
5.front end rancho if you now haw todo it do it your self its easy if not take it to a shop sometimes it gives kind of head aches

[bigeasycigars]

^Bump

[rads42]

I don't have any personal experience but a friend of mine who is way in to lifting trucks and doing it right won't even talk to me about doing anything other than a Deaver spring lift. I called them and they wanted about $700 per pair if I remember right. That was about a year ago. They are out of CA.

http://www.deaverspring.com/

Good luck!

[Burt4x4]

Originally Posted by bigeasycigars

Any suggestions on a front end rebuild (Any tips on steering stabilizers and I need to replace worn out ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. just seeking the best parts to do a full rebuild)

MOOG brand is what I used for Balls & Ends and had great luck with them..Made in USA!!
With these old rigs try and ONLY buy Made in USA parts. They FIT way better than any China stuff!!
I use Timkin USA for all my bearings...USA seals too!
Steering Stab. shock I allways used Rancho...Now I'm Hydro so don't have one anymore.
Bottom line buy USA built ONLY!!!

[cleszkie]

I second Burt's recommendation on using only Moog ball joints and tie rod ends, and Timken bearings. I have had nothing but good performance from these on my rebuilds.

As far as springs go, I started of with a set on Superlift 6" springs front and rear, but found the ride to be a little stiffer than I wanted. I then removed a single leaf from each of the front springs (first leaf back from main leaf) to soften it up a bit. This worked pretty good. When I added my D60 up front, the truck stance became too high in front due to the larger tube diameter, so I decided to install 4" leaf springs up front. Went with the Skyjacker Softride springs. Absolutely love the ride quality. These springs provide the right lift, but are made with thinner leaves which are much more subtle. In addition, these spring packs have more leaves (made of thinner leaves) which make them thicker packs, which allows the leaves to be flatter to get the desired lift. This also contributes to the subtle ride quality.

For shocks I run Bilstein gas charged units (no bypasses). Like the ride from these better than the non-gas charged shocks I ran in the past.

Hope this helps in your decisions.

[BIGBLU 72]

The lift on my truck is 3 in the rear and 4 in the front! had them rebent at a local 4 wheel drive shop! i have rancho lift shocks and stablizer! its very tame on the road but at home in the mud and water etc.

[bigeasycigars]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

I second Burt's recommendation on using only Moog ball joints and tie rod ends, and Timken bearings. I have had nothing but good performance from these on my rebuilds.

As far as springs go, I started of with a set on Superlift 6" springs front and rear, but found the ride to be a little stiffer than I wanted. I then removed a single leaf from each of the front springs (first leaf back from main leaf) to soften it up a bit. This worked pretty good. When I added my D60 up front, the truck stance became too high in front due to the larger tube diameter, so I decided to install 4" leaf springs up front. Went with the Skyjacker Softride springs. Absolutely love the ride quality. These springs provide the right lift, but are made with thinner leaves which are much more subtle. In addition, these spring packs have more leaves (made of thinner leaves) which make them thicker packs, which allows the leaves to be flatter to get the desired lift. This also contributes to the subtle ride quality.

For shocks I run Bilstein gas charged units (no bypasses). Like the ride from these better than the non-gas charged shocks I ran in the past.

Hope this helps in your decisions.

Hey Craig how ya been man? You loving the top in this weather? HOw's it holding up? Leaks?

Thanks for the info again.

I Bought Moog parts for the front end. I called Deavers they will take 5-6 weeks to build. Grrrr. What are your thoughts on the Tuff Coutry EZ ride 4" springs front and back? Also I hear that the ORD Greasable Heavy Duty Front Shackles, Greasable Main Eye Kit for aftermarket front springs and Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit for 1-1/2" shackle and spring eyes are a good thing as well.
As for shocks The Bilstein 5125 are the ones to get?

Ya think I should keep that sway bar and install a Swaybar Correction/Disconnect System and should I go with a 4" Raised Steering Arm? HELP!

Thanks for the response and look forward to hearing back

[mcmlxix]

Im in the process of figuring my suspension out as well... I just got MOOG drag link and tie rod ends from amazon.com ... Made in USA!

I have 4" lift with blocks in the rear. I'm going to get the ORD flip kit to remove the blocks and keep 4" of lift. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm This should let me use stock springs in the rear. I need to call them and find out about re-using the rear shackles. Im also going to put a 14BFF under there so I'm getting a "simple Swap Kit" from www.ruffstuffspecialties.com which has new U bolts, plates and perches. I may swap out to longer springs out of a later model truck some time down the road. Supposed to be a better ride and more flex. The also have disc brake brackets for the 14 bolt...

The front will stay as is till I find a D60 (and I win the lotto) I will probably do the longer springs up front too, but worry about having the wheel centered in the wheel well. I have nt done too uch research on the front yet....

[Burt4x4]

I have no first hand exp with Tuff Country but I have read many complaints over the years...made me form an opinion that they are on the "cheep" side of Lift spirings...but again only worth .02c

Anything ORD will be worth the money..great stuff!
Bilstien again heard good things....

I ran a swaybar up front and had disconnects when I daily drove my K5. I added it after one scary ride on the backroads (pavement, one lane each side) and my front shifting left and right even though I held the wheel straight as a 18wheeler buzzed by and DIO Holy Diver cranking on the radio (stuck in my brain for life, that Big RIg almost took me out)..after the swaybar install my rig whould only bounce up and down..no more side too side! Much better!!

[bowtie72]

I went with shackle flip in the rear and tuff country in the front. Installed new pitman arm a must with a 4" or greater lift. Used all greaseable eye bolts and heavy duty shackle kit in front. I would replace the front frame hangers too. Alot of people dont do these and suffer from not. I just have a stock steering stabalizer and it works very good. I am not running any sway bars and it does great. Off Road Design is awesome.

[cleszkie]

Eric (it is Eric right?),

I love the hard top. It is still on the Blazer, but the Blazer has been sidelined in my garage for the past two months. I'm redoing all of the old bodywork (replacing old bondo and new rust with straight clean metal), removing the diamond plate, and will do a complete repaint. It should look like a new truck when I'm done. The top will get a fresh repaint as well. Hope to have it to paint in the next few weeks.

I think you did good with the ORD greasable bolts and shackles. Wish I had them on my rig. As far as the rear set up, I would think twice about the shackle reversal. Yes, it allows you to run flatter (and therefore softer) springs. But the downside is that it will move your rear axle forward in the wheel opennings (unless you have the centering pins in the springs relocated). This can cause tire rub on the front of the rear wheel arch lips, but also tends to look a little "off" in my opinion.

Deaver springs are definitely the way to go if you want to spend the money (and wait). They are high quality, awsome riding springs. But the Skyjacker Soft Ride series springs should not be overlooked. They are cheaper than Deavers, but deliver the performance in my opinion. I kept my relatively stiff Superlift 6" springs in the rear of my Blazer because I do load the truck down sometime, run with the hard top part of the year, and tow with it, so I need the extra resistance.

Can't recall what series of Bilsteins I have, but they are the models just above their yellow gas charged units.

BTW, I don't run a sway bar up front, and don't feel that I need to with my spring set up. The gas charged shocks may have something to do with that.

[bigeasycigars]

Well I just installed..
Springs (4" Skyjackers) softrides...much better ride now
Bilstein shocks
New tie rods, ball joints, steering etc. (total front end rebuild using Moog Parts)
Replaced body mount bushings
Went through trans, transfer case, motor, diffs and replaced fluids and filters and gaskets as well as new wires and tune up. Fixed exhaust leak, added electronic ignition, cleaned the engine compartment (removed 40 years of sh*t wiring for who knows what)


This weekend installing Steering stabilizer, my new lengthened drive shafts, greasable shackels, new gas tank, sending unit, etc.

--Left to do.
Going through heater and getting ready to install an a/c. Not sure weather I'll go with Classic Air or work with what I have.


Gonna replace the BUMPERS AND OUTER GRILLE. Who has the best replacement parts that you know of? The best quality and fit?
FIND A FRONT FLIP FOR PASSENGER SEAT. Anyone know of somebody who might have the hardware?

Looks like next winter for the body work. Still looks good but want to remove all the rust on mine so I can sleep better at night.

Talk with ya soon,

Eric
__________________

[mustardjimmy71]

just a few q's

are u still on 33s?

how much longer are your drive shafts?

do u get wheel hop when doing burnouts?

[bigeasycigars]

33x12.5x15 on 10"... lengthened 2"...no hop.

[mustardjimmy71]

nice... cool... and sweeeeet!