Questions on Replacing Bed Wood?

[custom10nut]

I’m about to replace the original Bed Wood in my truck with new.
I want two prevent a rookie mistake.
Two questions I have:
1. Can I disassemble the bed by taking the metal strips off on at a time, without the sheet metal “collapsing” onto the frame?
2. Is it the “Washered” bolts drilled through the two bed boards that actually holds the bed off the frame?
A third related question is:
What would be the SAFEST way to lift the bed off the frame, in regards to preventing sheet metal damage.
My three options are:
Lift it off using my Two Post Lift. Where do I place the lift arms?
Lift it off using my engine hoist. What would be the lift points?
Lift it off using the Pallet Forks on my tractor. Again Lift points?
This is going to be a one man job, because my son is deployed overseas for the next year.
Also, how do I disconnect the bed wiring from the cab? Is there an electrical coupler? Or do I have to cut and splice it? (I know, I don’t want to do that)
Thanks in advance for any insight

[jeffahart]

Here's a write-up I did. It might answer some of your questions.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=712823

j

[67C10Step]

You did not specify if you had a fleetside or step side bed, but I have included an edited picture of my step side bed for reference.

1. You can take the metal strips off and remove the boards one at a time, note the most narrow boards under the angle strips on the bed side sort of 'hold up' the bed off the cross sills. Circled in orange in the photo. Best to start near the center and work outward.
2. Yes, the bolt locations circled in yellow actually hold the bed to the frame. You can pull those bolts and remove the boards without the bed falling down.

As to lifting the bed I'd think a two post lift would work well if you have access. Others that have done it can chime in on lifting locations that they used.

For the electrical, if you get under the rear of the truck at the furthest back crossmember in the frame, on the driver's side there is a coupler that connects the tail light/backup light wiring harness to the harness that runs from the firewall back. Unplug that and also look for any ground straps that might be from the frame to the bed.

Hope this helps some.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

You did not specify if you had a fleetside or step side bed, but I have included an edited picture of my step side bed for reference.

1. You can take the metal strips off and remove the boards one at a time, note the most narrow boards under the angle strips on the bed side sort of 'hold up' the bed off the cross sills. Circled in orange in the photo. Best to start near the center and work outward.
2. Yes, the bolt locations circled in yellow actually hold the bed to the frame. You can pull those bolts and remove the boards without the bed falling down.

As to lifting the bed I'd think a two post lift would work well if you have access. Others that have done it can chime in on lifting locations that they used.

For the electrical, if you get under the rear of the truck at the furthest back crossmember in the frame, on the driver's side there is a coupler that connects the tail light/backup light wiring harness to the harness that runs from the firewall back. Unplug that and also look for any ground straps that might be from the frame to the bed.

Hope this helps some.

Oops! Long Bed Fleet Side
This is a huge help, thanks

[mr48chev]

The washered bolts should be what hold the bed to the frame.

There is info here for fleetside https://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

Most of us don't have the option of three choices for lifting the bed off and do what we have to do. For me with my 71 that will be lift the front with my gantry and chain hoist and lift the back with my cherry picker, roll the truck out from under it and set it on a small trailer I have to move it out of the way if I am not ready to work on it. I've changed a couple that way in the past but for you the safest may be using the two post and actually lifting with the arms above the bed rather than under it. The only rub there is that if you don't have something to set it on that you can roll it around on you have the hoist tied up.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Here's a write-up I did. It might answer some of your questions.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=712823

j

This is great info that I’m gonna use for reference. Thanks

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

The washered bolts should be what hold the bed to the frame.

There is info here for fleetside https://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

Most of us don't have the option of three choices for lifting the bed off and do what we have to do. For me with my 71 that will be lift the front with my gantry and chain hoist and lift the back with my cherry picker, roll the truck out from under it and set it on a small trailer I have to move it out of the way if I am not ready to work on it. I've changed a couple that way in the past but for you the safest may be using the two post and actually lifting with the arms above the bed rather than under it. The only rub there is that if you don't have something to set it on that you can roll it around on you have the hoist tied up.

Yeah, I’m not too worried about rubbing, because it needs repainting, but the main reason for pulling it off, is to address a dent in the front panel and paint the cab.

[LS short box]

When I did my box before taking it off the truck I made a platform cart with wheels so I could move around as needed. I actually bolted the box to cart so it wouldn't slip off as I moved it around.

[custom10nut]

A couple more questions.
What’s the best way to install the new bed wood?
With the bed on or off the frame (I’m thinking on, for ease of Hole Alignment)?
Where do I start with installing the new wood, from the center to the outsides or the other way around?
For balance purposes, would I need the Tailgate on or off?
I have it off right now, but can put it back on if it’ll help.

[LS short box]

Tail gate off.
Just start laying in the bed wood in the box and then the metal strips. Just kind of even them out as needed.
Before and after pics of my 68.

[custom10nut]

Another thing.
Let me preface this by saying that I cut and milled my own boards as the replacement wood, so there are no pre drilled holes
Is there a sure way of drilling the holes for the frame mount bolts, to make sure the line up correctly?
My thought is to lay the old boards on top of the new, then drill them, then use a Forstner bit to drill the counter sink for the Off-Center Washers.
Is there a different, more sure way of doing this?

[LS short box]

I didn't like the look of the off set washers in the bed going thru the bed wood so I "hogged out" the bottom side of the wood just enough to clear the carriage head bolts. Maybe 1/4" or so.
You can see the carriage bolt heads in the cross members shown in my pic above.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I didn't like the look of the off set washers in the bed going thru the bed wood so I "hogged out" the bottom side of the wood just enough to clear the carriage head bolts. Maybe 1/4" or so.
You can see the carriage bolt heads in the cross members shown in my pic above.

So your mounting bolts don’t go through your Bed Wood? Interesting, and definitely an option

[dmjlambert]

Is the reason the bolts normally go through the wood to make it possible to completely assemble the bed with complete floor and bolt down or remove the bed as a whole unit?

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I didn't like the look of the off set washers in the bed going thru the bed wood so I "hogged out" the bottom side of the wood just enough to clear the carriage head bolts. Maybe 1/4" or so.
You can see the carriage bolt heads in the cross members shown in my pic above.

When I did mine I used the guide from GMCPauls to drill the mounting holes . I also built a jig to move the bed around

https://gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

[LS short box]

The bed wood metal strips bolt to the metal cross members. The metal cross members bolt to the frame.
IIRC I filed the metal cross member bolt holes so it was square so the carriage bolts wouldn't turn when you bolt the box down to the frame.
Since my box was all aftermarket parts except the tail gate I had to shim the box up about a 1/4" to match the cab body lines.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

When I did mine I used the guide from GMCPauls to drill the mounting holes . I also built a jig to move the bed around

https://gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

I have a Bench on rollers I’m going to set mine, so I can move it around.
I’ll have to do my own measurements to drill the holes, since the GMC Paul’s diagram is only for a SWB bed.
Thanks for your insight.
I’m seriously considering doing the “Hidden Mount bolts” the way you did.