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Old 04-07-2011, 07:34 PM   #1
FRENCHBLUE72
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Those are always the best deals and the best places to shop...
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:28 AM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Been collecting a few parts and getting ready for some more progress this coming week, but in the meantime, while the kids were watching the 'Tangled' blu-ray for the second time, I decided to have a little truck time- it's always fun to have truck parts in the kitchen

I was ready to toss these sill plates in the round file and buy a new set, but remembered seeing someone else around here use CLR on a set to bring them back to life. I figured, what the heck, what do I have to lose but a little time and elbow energy? I'm pretty satisfied with how they turned out- not perfect, but a TON better than before. Besides, if they were perfect, they'd look outta place on this truck...
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:16 AM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Hey!! Glad to see you are back at it again..

Darren
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:21 AM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

did you use all three brushes or just stick with the plastic bristle brush?
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:51 AM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Hey!! Glad to see you are back at it again..

Darren
Thanks! Question is, when are YOU gonna be back at it? Ready to see some progress on the ol' girl
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did you use all three brushes or just stick with the plastic bristle brush?
I used the plastic to spread the CLR around and the brass to scrub the rust off. I did not use the steel bristled at all. They're from a $1 kit from Harbor Freight. Not pictured, but also used was steel wool and Barkeeper's Friend, though the majority of the rust was off by the time I got to the BKF, so the results were negligible from it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:52 PM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Almost there, just a few "business" related things that make me the real money.

Just trying to get rid of a few other projects like the Jimmy, then the crew cab, then all I have is 2..

Darren
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:30 PM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Laid some 'insulation' today. It will be better for sound dampening than anything else, but this truck is getting a rubber mat, so every little bit helps. It also sealed about ten little holes that POs had drilled in the floorpan I'm lining the inside of the doors and panels as well to try to get rid of some of the 'tinny' sound and rattles... Should start to see some real progress again tomorrow
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:31 PM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Almost there, just a few "business" related things that make me the real money.

Just trying to get rid of a few other projects like the Jimmy, then the crew cab, then all I have is 2..

Darren
Haha- yeah I can relate. Sometimes other things take priority...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:30 PM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Finished wiring the stereo today- this thing has BUMP! Actually sounds pretty good considering the small amount of money invested. Will definitely do for when I get tired of listening to the Maganaflows--that have yet to be installed...

Also managed to get the floormat installed, and covered the seat with the serapes. The boot on the Lokar is a stock manual trans piece. Not sure if I really like the overall look of the interior, but it will do for now. I'm basically done with it except for a few knick-knacks and will be moving on to the bed soon
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'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:37 PM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

seats look great. did you have to use two blankets or did one cover everything?
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:16 AM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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seats look great. did you have to use two blankets or did one cover everything?
I ended up using two. These are truck-stop blankets, which are a little small compared to the others I had. The x-large blankets off eBay would prolly work with just one, but would end up costing more as they are around $50 plus ship. These were $13 each...
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‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:39 AM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

where did you get your rubber floor mat? Quality?
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:53 AM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

those sill plates came out awesome
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:13 PM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

If you don't mind my asking, what Lokar shifter did you use?
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:24 PM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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where did you get your rubber floor mat? Quality?
I ordered it from the Truck and Car Shop. I'd say it fits ok. The rubber is nice and heavy and smells good I'm hoping as it sits in place for a while that it will lose all of the creases from being rolled during shipping- a hot Louisiana summer should do it. I was told by a board vendor that they are all from the same manufacturer, so I'd get it wherever is cheapest...
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those sill plates came out awesome
Thanks! Look better in pics than in person, but still not bad...
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If you don't mind my asking, what Lokar shifter did you use?
Certainly! Lokar FMS6700BB. It is a floor mount, 16" lever, black anodized knob for a 700R4. Different options will have different part numbers and they have PLENTY of options on their website. Shop around some before you buy- I got a smokin' deal on mine off Amazon...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:34 PM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Feels like a small amount of progress today, but progress nonetheless. I managed to wrap up the behind the dash shenanigans, which involved removing a bunch of stuff I already installed to make room for the A/C ducts. It gets very tight in the center section with speakers, stereo, center vent, ash tray, control unit, and all of their associated wiring/brackets- then trying to stuff three different ducts through there. My hands took a beating, but I am happy to say that the interior is 'complete'.

Also got the seat belts back in (which is 'fun' with the bench installed) and removed the old Grant steering wheel (that has bugged me since I got this truck) to install a new Grant steering wheel. I will have to get used to the increased diameter, but it is definitely better than what was in there
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

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Old 04-13-2011, 12:18 AM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Certainly! Lokar FMS6700BB. It is a floor mount, 16" lever, black anodized knob for a 700R4. Different options will have different part numbers and they have PLENTY of options on their website. Shop around some before you buy- I got a smokin' deal on mine off Amazon...
Thanks! I've been looking at them trying to find one that looks like a factory manual shifter but was unsure what length etc. I would need. This part number gets me a whole lot closer than I was
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:52 PM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks! I've been looking at them trying to find one that looks like a factory manual shifter but was unsure what length etc. I would need. This part number gets me a whole lot closer than I was
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Glad I could be of assistance

Managed to make some more headway today by tearing the bed to pieces so I can get to work on the underside and complete some body work before paint. I started by giving her a much needed bath. Yes, that is mud splattered on the undercarriage. Never. Again. Don't get me wrong, this truck will get driven, and used, but never abused in the mud again. What a pain to clean up. I *think* I finally got it all- or at least most of it...

Oh yeah, played with the bed a little after I removed the 'body lift'. 3" body drop anyone?
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:11 AM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Next I got busy fixing and modifying my Blazer tank. Two things have been bugging me about it for a while: an inaccurate fuel gauge and a sloooooow fill at the pump. For the gauge issue, I ended up using a stinkin' F*rd part 'cause it was available locally and has to be better than the split barrel float that was NOT floating in there before.

To help remedy the slow fill, I lopped off the tiny filler neck that comes on the poly tank and bolted on a 2" angled unit I got from Tanks, Inc. This also solves the filler neck being hidden behind the bed mount issue Also added a 1/2" vent nipple replacing the 3/8 that came on it. Hopefully this thing will fill on full blast at the pump now. Heck, I'd be happy with the first 'click'...
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:13 AM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looking good! You have been making good progress, looks like the only major project left is to finish up the bed.
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:54 PM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

looks pretty good.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:51 AM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

looks great
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:23 AM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Awesome build thread! I love it. I got a lot of inspiration from your project. I am subscribed now.

Hey, sorry to hear you had to sell the Blazer. Man, I would have jumped on that thing. I never knew it was for sale. I noticed your avatar had changed but never guessed you had to part ways with it. If you decide to dump this project let me know
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:35 PM   #24
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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looks pretty good.
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looks great
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Originally Posted by mcbassin View Post
Awesome build thread! I love it. I got a lot of inspiration from your project. I am subscribed now.

Hey, sorry to hear you had to sell the Blazer. Man, I would have jumped on that thing. I never knew it was for sale. I noticed your avatar had changed but never guessed you had to part ways with it. If you decide to dump this project let me know
Thanks guys! I try to include info I think may be helpful in others' builds, so I'm glad you got something from it. As for the Blazer- I'm just now getting to the point where seeing pictures of it doesn't make my stomach turn- but, it was for the better. I am in a much better place in life now and can always get more stuff. No surprise you didn't see it for sale- it was sold within a few hours of posting it on this site... This one will hopefully be around for a while- my soon-to-be wife may have some attachment to it since she'll be the one driving it to the wedding...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

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Old 04-20-2011, 09:56 PM   #25
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Finished up the exhaust today. Had to use two more bends to get the pipes from over the axle back to the bumper. I ended up using factory holes in the shock crossmember and rear framerails to bolt the 'snapper' isolated mounts to- still need to get some longer bolts for them, as they are temp-installed with what I had on hand. All in all, it turned out decent once I got my welder settings down- I wish I could go back and re-do the forward H-pipe section and get rid of the booger welds, but, oh well, it will work

The rear pieces that run parallel with the 'rails will get either turned down or kicked out towards the ends of the bumper, since I have a couple of 90* bends left, but I will decide on that when the bed goes back on and after the next big projects- bed/body work and paint
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
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'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
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