Disc Brake Conversion 101?

[67Slider]

I have a 67 C10, drums all the way around. I found a deal on CL for a booster and a master cylinder from a 71. No prop valve. The local wrecking yard has a 71 with manual master cylinder and a prop valve. Not sure if they would work. My question; can I pick up the booster and master cylinder and use the prop valve from a manual 71 with the disc/drum package? Or do I need to get a prop valve for a power brake 71-72?

Any help would be great.

Thanks,
67Slider

[67Slider]

Oh yeah, Can I buy the MC and Prop valve from the wrecking yard and use a booster form a different year? If so what combos work?

Thanx

[oldblue1968chevy]

A 71 1/2 ton booster will work on your 67 c10.

Will you be converting to disc brakes? If not all you need from the junkyard is the booster the rod and the brackets, some hoose to the manifold and some worm clamps/time. Have fun re adjusting the brakelight switch!!! I did it a year ago when I was 16 so im SURE you can do it, not tricky but you'll be upside down swearing for awhile.

[67Slider]

Update: got a line on a MC and booster from an 80 chevy. Will it work? What prop valve would I need?

[oldblue1968chevy]

now that is beyond me. If you stay drum/drum YOU DONT NEED TO CHANGE PROP. VALVE. that is only for if you swap to disc frontend! (highly suggest).

good luck any ? keep asking

[67Slider]

I was ready to buy the disc brake kit today and the rep was telling me I needed a new MC and prop valve. Talk about a punch in the gut. I've saved for a while to buy the kit and now I have to wait a few more months to save up enough dough for a new unit. Thats why I'm looking for some alternatives to paying the 300 bucks for a new MC/booster and prop valve.

Any help from the forum would be great.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Do you plan on lowering the truck,EVER?

If no just get the whole front crossmember from the 80's truck clean it rebuild it paint it install on your truck, walah 5 lug (not what I did but what Id do again if I had to.)

If ya wanna lower it and disc brakes, get conversoin drop spindles and id get junkyard rotors (if good) new bearings seals junkyard calipers new hoses new or junkyard MC booster etc and disc brake swap

[67Slider]

Yeah, gonna drop the front end with spindles. Was getting the 2.5 drop kit with disc brakes when I found out I need more STUFF to get the brakes working. Looking at a power booser, drop spindle kit from TruckandCarShop.com. Will be around 935 with shipping for the whole setup: MC with booster, propvalve, drop spindles, discs and rotors Etc.... But trying to save a buck where I can.

[flashed]

If you want a really good booster and master cylinder with the prop. valve and lines already to install have Frank (PICKMUP) of Olympia Washington build you one. He built one for me , its a 3/4 to 1 ton unit but I put it on my 1/2 ton. You can stop very easy with it and its no more expensive than the others out there. My 72 truck now stops better than any of my newer cars ,best upgrade I have ever done. The hardest part of the project was adjusting the brakelight switch because the po crossthreaded the nut on it.

[Deaol]

I just did the swap using all over the counter parts EXCEPT for prop valve, tie rod sleeves,, drop spindles and 6lug rotors. Booster and master I used was out of a 73-87 style (dunno if they changed drastically over those years) Prop valve was a simple disc/drum low ender I got from a cpp reseller same with the 2 1/2 drop spindles and 6lug rotors 1 1/4".. the tie rod sleeves are from cpp aswell.

Used 73-87 upper/lower ball joints
Used 73-87 outter tie rod ends
dust shields/caps/bearings/lines etc

Other parts I used were for a 70 (71/72 changed)

Pitman arm (moog)
Idler arm (moog)
Tie rod end inner (moog)
Control arm shaft (moog)

the cpp sleeves adapted the inner/outter tie rod ends

center link etc was untouched

just finished this over the weekend, still have mass work to do so it is untested at this point, so in a few weeks I can let you know how it works.. should be fine...

all in all I saved a few bucks doing it this way vs buying a kit.

[gkesseru]

73-87 trucks are the cheapest out there. I bought a dead one for 500 just for the disk parts. Sold the cab and front clip for 150, sold the wheels for 100, sold the bed (in good shape) for 400. Kept the complete front suspension. Traded the bad engine and unkonwn TH350 for the labor to help me strip the truck. Cost: just labor and 150 profit. Also have the starter, alternator, carb and PS.
hardest part was to get my wife to accept another dead truck in the yard, even if only for one week.

[67Slider]

If I picked up the 80 MC and booster would I need an 80 prop valve to make it work?

[Classic Heartbeat]

The problem with using 73 and lator booster/Mastercylinders is the brackets don't fit. All you need to do is go out to the wrecking yard and find one out of a 71 or 72 and be sure to take the master cylinder, booster, brake rod, proportioning valve, and lines to it. There are 71/72s that did not have power brakes also. You will have to make up a new set of upright lines going to the proportioning valve, but that would be it. I, however do not recomend using the master cylinder, booster, or proportioning valve. My thoughts for these parts are they are used parts that you know nothing about, and you will be entrusting your life with them. WES

[67Slider]

Kinda leaning that way. Probably worth the money (and my life) to buy new and not have to worry about it. Great advice just a bummer on the old pocket book. Seems like every project I start on this old monster costs me $1000 bucks. But I sure love the time I spend on her.

Thanks for the responses from everyone.

Matt

[VetteVet]

Lots of good info from the FAQS.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=35042