New Project 57 Chevy panel on 78 chevy frame

[dsraven]

have you checked out the video on a shrinking disc? here is a video link. kinda cool idea. I have one and use it for the final metal working. you just need to remember it is for the final finishing and small high spots. otherwise you can overshrink the larger section of a panel if trying to use for a bump that is too big. some guys have also used an old clothes iron to achieve the effect of heating only the high spots and then cooling that hot spot quickly so it shrinks faster than surrounding metal.
the trick with the huge felt marker is another trick I have used for years to find high spots. I personally use a long piece of plywood with no foam between the board and the sandpaper strip. this allows for a straighter panel because the sander doesn't conform to bends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgS_zWdZz5g

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

Once I get to the black fender(P51) I will clean both side to clean metal-learned something;
I'm useing a flux core wire feed- had not cleaned both side on the other fender.
Will use a lot more gap clamps(P51) when I do weld the fender in - hope the new setting will give me a better weld.
Will look into getting a copper pipe for backing on the fender welding.
Pick up a 3' grinder from HF for grinding on the weld - had been use a 4.5 grinder. Have been use a hammer n dolly on the weld area.
Still have to do the 4-link on the rear end to frame - just not there yet.
I'm going to cut the old(yellow) cab off all the way back to the ridge in the floor. (pic) this is the panel cab.
I found that I have a floor mount right under the area I'm going to cut out - will have to do some triming around the cab mount. (pic)
Will brace the top.door openings the side to side with 1' sq tube on the panel truck then do the same on the red cab.
The red cab (new) will become the cab area for the panel truck. (pic)
I have to replace the whole front cab area to save money n time.
I will take a couple of pic of the door opening - windshield opening - then fill in with measurements to go by when replacing the cab area. (no pic)
I have ordered NEW door hinge pins,strikers n latchs for both doors- with a NEW set of door keys for both doors.
Will work out the fire wall once I get the cab removed n reinstalled.
I'm using the front frame from a 78 chevy 1/2 ton po with the rear frame from a 50 chevy 1/2 ton truck- flatter frame then the 78 pu. The rear end will be out of a 95 chevy pu. Will put 4-link with coil overs on the rear. The wheel base will be 117" from center to center of the wheels.
So here are the pic to help show what I have to do.

[T-P Auto]

More pic to go by.

[T-P Auto]

The 4-link is not on my rear end - just shows what I have to do to my frame n rear end yet.

T-P Auto
Tim

[_Ogre]

nothing wrong with using a fluxcore welder, you just do 10x more grinding than the mig guys do
don't know if you've read thru my build, but i used a lincoln weldpac 100 fluxcore welder
on all of the frame and most of the body modifications on my 58 truk
it's definitely the hard way to do it, but it keeps cost down and you'll never run out of gas

i do think your jumping around, working on unimportant stuff like front fenders
when you have a firewall, floor and pillars to fit and weld in
that said, i built/customized my bed first
you do have a 58-9 radiator support and inner fenders, not sure they'll play nice with 57 fenders
firewall is 58-9 just keep that in mind when you mount the hood hinges, holes are different

[_Ogre]

more fluxcore welding

[_Ogre]

with a little grinding and paint

[T-P Auto]

Ogre;
HELP

Do you have a pic of the right rad support for the 57.
All so do you have a pic of the lower grille bar of a 57.
I have the right inter fender for a 57.
I have the right hood for a 57.
I have been thinking about replace the firewall to a smooth reset one.

T-P Auto
Tim

[_Ogre]

nope, i just know what the 58-9 core support looks like
58-9 core support is narrower to accommodate 4 sexy as hell headlights, same width as hood
on the inner fender the 58-9 has the bracket for the hood hinge spring and 1 hole for the hinge
55-7 the spring hooks on the hinge, no bracket

[_Ogre]

55-7 chevy/gmc inner fender, no spring bracket or hinge attachment holes
58 inner fender bolts to core support, then the fender bolts to the inner fender
57 inner fender bolts to fender, can be removed or run without




55-7 chevy/gmc hinge, attaches only to the firewall, spring is self contained

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

I have a right n left inter fender for 57 - have 57 hood hinges with springs.
Is the black inter fender a 57 or 58-9?
The yellow one is 58-9-right ! !
I have had a problem with by heaters in the shop- wont stay lite or work right? Found out that I did not have enough vol/press from the gas company.
So going with 2 vent less propane heaters for this year.
Just have to work thur this problem for now. The vent less heater are both propane/nat gas. Will work on this during the summer months.
Will post some pics of the inter fenders I have on hand. Had the front mocked up while back( I think I took a couple of pics) will try to find them and post them.

Ogre - thanks for the information;

T-P Auto
Tim

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i do think your jumping around, working on unimportant stuff like front fenders
when you have a firewall, floor and pillars to fit and weld in
that said, i built/customized my bed first
you do have a 58-9 radiator support and inner fenders, not sure they'll play nice with 57 fenders
firewall is 58-9 just keep that in mind when you mount the hood hinges, holes are different

The art to focusing on these projects for such a long time is keeping yourself motivated to the end. I wonder if something could be said about working on the exciting parts sometimes just to feed that fire to get through all the boring stuff like patch panel replacement. Although I actually enjoy making a perfect replacement where you can't even see anything was repaired.

Work on what makes you happy as long as you're working on something

[T-P Auto]

Hello;
It has been some time since I posted on here.
I have been busy with the house n yard work-trying to get the heavy work out of the way while I still can.
At my age now I find that it takes me longer to get things done.
I'm getting ready to start back on my 57 panel project this next month(march)
I had the C10 frame all ready to set the body down on it - just to find out that the rear end with std wheel was not going to let the body set down like I needed it to.
The wheels were only 1/2" clearence on the body- not enough for side to side movement of body.
So now I"m back to redoing the complete frame under the panel. This time I'm going with a S10 frame front end with a New 3x4 std frame for under the panel.
So for now I just want to let everyone know that the C10 frame will NOT work on a panel?

Thank You
T-P Auto
Tim

[oldman3]

Tim, good to hear from you again. Good luck with the change...Jim