55.2-59 Bolt in c notch

[jeffs56]

Does anyone make a bolt in small C notch for the rear of a 55-59 Chevy truck? Thank you. Sorry I cant weld and the quotes I’m getting are out of my budget so hopefully someone makes a bolt in please let me know. Thank you

[mr48chev]

https://store.gaugemagazine.com/univ...1966bb4cf3d9ac

[jeffs56]

I seen that but it doesn’t look like it will fit the shape of the 55-59 frame rails. I know it says universal. Have you used that one on a 55-59. Thank you

[_Ogre]

lot of guys here also realized that farming out is not in the budget
buy a welder, time to learn to weld, just find a friend that can check out your welds
c-notch also means your going to lower the truck by adding ifs or a clip that will also need welding

[jeffs56]

I’m running the dropped axle and leaf springs in front. I just need more suspension travel. Do you know of a bolt on c notch?

[mongocanfly]

What would keep the one shown above from working..?..its gonna require cutting the frame, and it bolts to the side of the frame..do you have the ability to support the frame and do the frame cutting?..sometimes it's just better to pay someone to do it and be done with it..and it would be much better welded, although bolts will work..not sure what kinda prices you were quoted..

[jeffs56]

I’m not sure if it will work or not. It’s definitely not shaped like the frame rails of the 55-59. This one is more squared off and the 55-59 has wore of a slight curve to it. Does it look like it will work? I’ve got quoted anywhere from $500-1250 to do a small c notch

[mr48chev]

Brothers sells a C notch kit for 99.00 that you should be able to get someone to weld in for a reasonable price. https://www.brotherstrucks.com/1955-...tinfo/CNK5559/ A lot of the cost in something like this is prep. If you have the bed and fenders removed, have the frame all clean and wire brushed and maybe cleaned up with a flap wheel or other metal cleaning disk so all they have to do is cut, fit and weld it could save quite a bit of money the total cost should be lower. The less non actual cut, fit and weld work someone has to do the lower the cost.,


The other option is to call or email http://www.mcgaughysclassic.com/home.html and ask if they either have a bolt in or one of their bolt in units can be used with limited mods. They were just about the first ones making bolt in C notchs and turn out some pretty decent but not cheap work.

[T97]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

I’m not sure if it will work or not. It’s definitely not shaped like the frame rails of the 55-59. This one is more squared off and the 55-59 has wore of a slight curve to it. Does it look like it will work? I’ve got quoted anywhere from $500-1250 to do a small c notch

That's an insane amount imo. If it were me I would buy a cheap flux core machine, some practice metal and a weld in notch. It's not very complicated to put a notch in at all. I understand if you feel like its out of your skill level but with a bolt in notch you are limiting yourself how far you want to go. Lowering is like a sickness its hard to settle when you know you can get that extra inch out of your truck.

[mongocanfly]

Wow...that's unreal...I know zip codes dictate prices, but around here that would be a $2-300 job...
And ok..I'm not real familiar with the tf frame shapes...but looking at how the C is made, and picturing it in my mind,, I think it would work fine..I assume the squareness you refer to is the side plate, but it should work ok...

[mongocanfly]

Heres a video of a similar c notch..its more square than the radius of the frame..that's kinda what you'll end up with..
Skip ahead to about 2min... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wH_ET_BO2As

[jeffs56]

Thank you. Yea I thought that was kind of high as well to weld it in. With me not knowing how to weld I’m at there mercy lol. That’s why I was hoping the bolt in will work. That video looks pretty simple

[dsraven]

if you are installing a c notch because you need to drop the rear that much, you may need to do some dimensional checks to ensure you also don't need to raise the bed floor.
if you really want to do it on the cheap without a welder it will take some work. make some cardboard patterns you can lay flat on the outside of the frame. lay it out so you get the axle clearance you need and the height you need, whether you go up into the box floor or not is your decision depending on your wants and needs. you can make a pattern that allows a bolt on part, made out of sheet material, that you can bolt onto the frame before any cutting is done. this ensures the frame stays the same dimensional length and stays true to it's straightness/levelness. you need to X brace the frame before any cutting is done to ensure the frame stays square. use a pilot drill and then a reamer drill to get the tight fit in the drilled holes for some grade 8 bolts that have a non threaded shank where the frame and the new sheet will bolt together. bolt the new sides on, then cut away the parts that need to be cut. use some zip discs to cut the patterns out of sheet and also to cut the frame. once the frame part is cut away you can build the parts you need to connect the dots. this part may require you to build it in parts and have a welder finish the build by welding them together. then bring those parts home and mock them up so you can drill the frame and bolt the whole thing together. when done you can remove the bracing and decide if you want to have the new parts welded to your frame.
the other method requires frame bracing, fab a c notch from rectangular tubing with wings to bolt on to fit your needs and have it welded and ready, then cut the frame, slip the new part in, drill and bolt it on. decide if you want it welded in when done. you should also box the area after.
see, it aint cheap either way.lol.

[jeffs56]

Wow that’s a lot. I don’t want to raise the bed floor so I’m just wanting to do a small notch to get me some suspension travel

[dsraven]

check OGRES build closely then. cut the bottom out, brace the top part.

[_Ogre]

and that ogre guy used a cheap fluxcore welder to build his truk

[jeffs56]

That Ogre guys has forgot more then I know lol. Your way more qualified then me lol

[dsraven]

or dump in a corvette or jag driveline...…….

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

Thank you. Yea I thought that was kind of high as well to weld it in. With me not knowing how to weld I’m at there mercy lol. That’s why I was hoping the bolt in will work. That video looks pretty simple

Was that quote for doing all the work including removing the bed, cleaning up the frame and then welding or just fitting and welding the notch to your cleaned up frame only having to remove the rear wheels and tires for access?

If you are just going to put a small notch = 1/2 of a 4 inch pipe with a boxing plate on the inside any decent job shop welding shop can do the work and you don't need a hot rod shop.

Bolt in universal notch kit that you could trim to fit https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolt-In-C-N...4383.l4275.c10


Weld in notch kit that probably reduces fab time by an hour or two. All the installer has to do is cut and weld and done.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-59-Che...4383.l4275.c10

That should take less than two hours of actual work for any decent welder/fabricator to install on a clean bare frame where all they had to do was fit, cut and weld and done.

[jeffs56]

I was looking at that weld in kit with the boxing plate. Just to weld it in I was quoted $400. No other work

[_Ogre]

time to learn how to weld, we all had to learn at some period of our lives
$400 here, $400 there, it adds up fast

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

time to learn how to weld, we all had to learn at some period of our lives
$400 here, $400 there, it adds up fast

agree with you my friend. I have a small flux core HOBART welder that has done all the welding on my truck by myself, and oh yeah, a decent grinder, lol

[_Ogre]

90% of truk was welded with a $300, 120v, lincoln, fluxcore, welder
36,000 miles later, nothing has fallen off truk

[dsraven]

not sure about your area but some welder supply places will give you a crash course on welding if you buy the welder there.
-welder, helmet and safety equipment
-a selection of mini grinders, even just cheap ones, so you can have a zip disc on one, a wire wheel on one, a grinding wheel, a flap disc etc. saves time on swapping discs plus they stay centered so they don't have to relearn where center is when you swap a used disc onto the grinder again. if you have a compressor that will keep up a selection of die grinders is also invaluable. a couple of right angles ones as well. with small wire wheels, roloc style arbor so you you can have sandpaper or surface conditioning discs etc, a rounded end burr on one, a small zip disc on one, etc all time savers.
grab a welder, grab some scrap metal, practice. watch a few you tubes. practice and watch how the heat distorts etc. pretty soon you will be welding small patches and then progress to bigger stuff. start with thicker metals and work down to get the feel and watch how the welding puddle moves as you work. watch the stick out and see how it affects the weld.

this guy has a few different videos that explain a bunch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KrwmK7df-s

[mr48chev]

I'm not even going to suggest that he try to weld it himself. What a welding supply might have though is that they know someone who does portable welding for a reasonable rate or what welding shop or person who takes on small welding jobs is reasonable in the area and does a top rate job to boot. That is a job that a buddy of mine can do in a little over an hour in his shop and he is the guy who still gets called out when welding jobs are so critical no one else is qualified.

I truly believe we need to stop beating up on Jeff because he doesn't weld and really isn't interested. Lets help him figure out a way to get this done without breaking the bank.