47-55.1 Long Time Coming......

[gsinon]

Todays project was to fix the filler panel between the running board and bed. I cut a slice in it and pushed the metal where I needed it. I then put a tack weld on to hold the shape. I then took it off and final welded the gap.




This shows it with welds ground. It is a tighter gap then appears, but also not pushed as far back against the fender as it could be.




While I had it off the truck I formed a piece of metal and extended the leading edge for a better flow.



And since I was in the area I finished what I started last week, that being the stake pocket. I'm not a fan of the way they just stop. So I extended it and rolled it in towards the filler panel. The question then became what to do about the two half round reveals (body lines). Do I continue them? If so how? Or do I just stop them?

I've seen where people have done this modification before, and every time other than once, people have extended the lines. So me being me and wanting to be mildly different I measured from the top to the bottom and made a cut line. When I formed the extension pieces and welded them in I then welded closed the two hald round reveals. I then ground the welds rounding the bottom off as well. At the end of the day I like it, it's different. And for me that works.




And with the filler panel installed...






4.37 hrs today
507.17 hrs subtotal



.

[gsinon]

Still working away on the running board. This time the fitment to the front fender. I have always wondered why the factory didn't connect the leading edge of the running board to the fender and instead thought this huge gap looked right. Most other year body styles and manufacturers connected the dots. So me being me decided I wanted to make them connect.

As it fit before I started...




I then cut a slice on the leading edge of the board and pulled it forward until it touched the fender. I also drilled a hole and bolted them together but used a washer in between to create a slight gap. I also welded on a piece to extend the area some.





I decided this would be much easier to do if I made the filler pieces in multiple steps.





At that point ai took the running board off the truck and put it on my welding table. I made the remailning filler pieces and welded everything solid. I wish now that i took some pics at this point, but I got so wrapped up in what I was doing i forgot.

This is now bolted back in place with all the welds ground. This is just roughed in and still needs some finesse work, but you get the idea.







Time for this job, 3.6hrs
New subtotal, 510.77 hrs
At $50 per hour, that would be $25,538.33



.

[6DoF]

damn dude, the attention to detail on the fit is amazing

[dsraven]

great job. you're right, those parts should have been connected at the factory for a more blended look.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

damn dude, the attention to detail on the fit is amazing

Originally Posted by dsraven

great job. you're right, those parts should have been connected at the factory for a more blended look.

Thanks guys. I love doing this stuff! I've been having so much fun out in the shop this summer. Play time is now over, I start back to school Monday. Now back to slower progress.

[gsinon]

Every once in a while I have those days where it feels like nothing got accomplished. Today was definitely not one of those days. I got so much done, some of which I didn;t take pics of though.

I started and finished the the front left stake pocket as I had previously done on the right side. I also took the filler panel off and extended the front leading edge as also done on the other side. While at it I made the filler piece and rod that goes from the top of the bed to that filler panel to match what was done on the other side. This was to fill that unsightly gap between the bed and cab.

You've seen pics of all that already from the right side, no sense on posting more pics covering the same mods.

Once all that was done I turned my attention to the two rear stake pocket bottom ends. I measured and figured out where I wanted to end and then start the roll inwards. I made a template out of posterboard and marked front and back of both stake pockets for the radius I wanted it to be trimmed to.









I then cut across at the line I had already determined and then trimmed the bottom edges to match the radius.







At this point I got so busy doing things I didn't take pics as I was working. Here however is the pieces with all the welds ground. This still needs some finessing.


You might also notice that I plug welded the holes where all the bed parts normally bolt together. I am welding this solid into one piece.








Time today, 5.57 hrs
Subtotal, 516.33hrs



.

[Rickysnickers]

Very nice! One question, will there ever be a possibility of moisture getting in there? Would it be worthwhile to add a small hole for drainage purposes?

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Very nice! One question, will there ever be a possibility of moisture getting in there? Would it be worthwhile to add a small hole for drainage purposes?

I definitely plan on drilling a coupole small drain holes on the bottom once I remove the bed.

[dsraven]

What about if you cut a small groove on the edge that fits against the box wall. That small divot would leave a gap that would look sorta natural and also be a drain that would pass water, tree needles, etc. I would recommend shooting some weld through primer into the void to prevent rust. High zinc.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

What about if you cut a small groove on the edge that fits against the box wall. That small divot would leave a gap that would look sorta natural and also be a drain that would pass water, tree needles, etc. I would recommend shooting some weld through primer into the void to prevent rust. High zinc.

Before welding all the pieces together I spray weld thru primer on everything. Once I'm done painting everything I will run a long wand down the hole and spray 3m cavity wax really thoroughly. That will coat everything and protect it all from any moisture. The OEM's do this at the factory inside frame rails and such.

[dsraven]

if you were to extend the lower flap of steel so it goes inside the edge of the lower valance, and provide enough of a hole for water to drain through into that area, the drainage would all happen behind the valance so the hole could be large enough to do the job but would be un noticed. just a thought, dunno what you have for room back there.

[Hey Dude]

I hope you don't regret solidly mounting the runningboard on both ends. Same goes for the tight gaps between the cab and filler. Unless your frame is EXTREMELY stiff and rigid you could get rubs, squeaks and cracks.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you were to extend the lower flap of steel so it goes inside the edge of the lower valance, and provide enough of a hole for water to drain through into that area, the drainage would all happen behind the valance so the hole could be large enough to do the job but would be un noticed. just a thought, dunno what you have for room back there.

I'm not 100% sure what you are talking about. What valance? I'm confused.

Originally Posted by Hey Dude

I hope you don't regret solidly mounting the runningboard on both ends. Same goes for the tight gaps between the cab and filler. Unless your frame is EXTREMELY stiff and rigid you could get rubs, squeaks and cracks.

Ford and Dodge had both ends of the running boards connected for decades without issues. Also, my frame is boxed on both sides and has an X member that runs from right behind the engiine all the way to from rear suspension points. If this thing twists at all I would be shocked.

Either way, I am 100% content in my decisions.

[Hey Dude]

Please don't take my comments as negative. I am a retired Autobody Instructor. It's sometimes hard to take that hat off...

Frame flex is easy enough to test. Once you have your runningboards where you want them, leave the bolts out and put a floor jack under the front right and rear left wheel. Jack each opposing corner 4" off the ground and check for movement at the gaps.

[dsraven]

Aha, now you opened that door of "who knows what to do with this " auto body questionnaire. Haha.
I was thinking about the interference during frame flex as well but thought, looking at the other builds, it is already thought out. Prolly not cruising the hay field anymore but some roads and speed bumps are sorta like that. Lol.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Hey Dude

Please don't take my comments as negative. I am a retired Autobody Instructor. It's sometimes hard to take that hat off...

Frame flex is easy enough to test. Once you have your runningboards where you want them, leave the bolts out and put a floor jack under the front right and rear left wheel. Jack each opposing corner 4" off the ground and check for movement at the gaps.

I take no offense at the suggestion or concerns. I've been in the trade as well my entire career and this definitely isn't my first rodeo. I'm not one to throw around my resume, but suffice it to say I'm confident I've got this covered. I'm not a hobbyist even though this is being done at home.

Originally Posted by dsraven

Aha, now you opened that door of "who knows what to do with this " auto body questionnaire. Haha.
I was thinking about the interference during frame flex as well but thought, looking at the other builds, it is already thought out. Prolly not cruising the hay field anymore but some roads and speed bumps are sorta like that. Lol.

Like I've said before. If this were just a stock frame I would certainly be concerned with the tight gaps. But this chassis is now as stout as can be. But I do appreciate everyones concerns and take them under advisement.

[daveshilling]

Yall, Glenn is the real deal... Some people get a finished truck in a magazine if they're lucky, but how many of us have had our build THREADS published in a magazine??


Congrats btw, Glenn! Add it to the list (=

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Yall, Glenn is the real deal... Some people get a finished truck in a magazine if they're lucky, but how many of us have had our build THREADS published in a magazine??


Congrats btw, Glenn! Add it to the list (=

Thanks for the kind words. I never really thought of it that way. At the end of the day I just feel like I'm some dude building a truck in my back yard shop to pay tribute to my dad, more than likely not much differntly then some of you.

However on that topic of the magazine, I did just last week have a conversation with the editor and there will be at least two more technical articles like the one you posted coming in the near future on the progress of my truck.


.

[Jason 56]

Wow, great build! I just read through your whole thread. You do amazing work. I really like how you’re modifying everything to how GM should have built it! I’ve built mine with the same mentality. Keep up the progress. I’ll be following.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Wow, great build! I just read through your whole thread. You do amazing work. I really like how you’re modifying everything to how GM should have built it! I’ve built mine with the same mentality. Keep up the progress. I’ll be following.

I really appreciate your kind words. Thank you, and keep on following as I plug away!

[gsinon]

So it's been a couple weeks. The new Golden Star fender showed up the other day. This morning I went out and unboxed it, and I must say it looked promising right off the bat.

I then removed the grill and the old front fender. Then it was time to cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best. In the end I have to say I am pretty damn impressed with it over all. Is it perfect? NO. Is it far better then the OEM fender I had? ABSOLUTELY!


I can definitely make due with this. I'm so impressed, that instead of spending far too many hours fixing the 72 years of wear and tear on the passenger side fender I am now going to just order a new one for that side too. I look at this as a time vs money thing. Could I make my existing passenger fender work? Yes, but at how many hours? Where if I just buy the new fender I can be spending that time on other things and moving on.










shop time, 3.5hrs
new total, 519.83



.

[Getter-Done]

Looks good

I have not heard of Golden star.

I looked it up.

Did you order Direct?
or from Jegs or another vendor?

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looks good

I have not heard of Golden star.

I looked it up.

Did you order Direct?
or from Jegs or another vendor?

I researched the crap out of who made fenders, and who made them with the least amount of complaints on fit. Golden Star was the clear answer. They are however a couple hundred bucks more. But seeing how they fit, I would do it all over again.


I shopped on both their own web site and Jegs. Same price, however buying direct they wanted $300 for shipping, where as Jegs was only $156. Funny thing about that, is that Jegs does not stock them, they are drop shipped right from Golden Star. Go figure.

.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by gsinon

I researched the crap out of who made fenders, and who made them with the least amount of complaints on fit. Golden Star was the clear answer. They are however a couple hundred bucks more. But seeing how they fit, I would do it all over again.


I shopped on both their own web site and Jegs. Same price, however buying direct they wanted $300 for shipping, where as Jegs was only $156. Funny thing about that, is that Jegs does not stock them, they are drop shipped right from Golden Star. Go figure.

.

That is good to know / And Funny

[vintovka]

Got one from Classic. Still sorry