Replacing oil pan gasket

[68gmcdude]

I'm going to pull my oil pan and replace the gaskets as it is leaking at the rear. Are there any tips for doing this? Is there a specific torque recommendation for the bolts? I don't see anything in my shop manual. Thanks!

REVISION:
My truck has the 250 inline 6 motor, which I forgot to mention.

[franken]

I'm not sure on a truck but for the Camaro I had to rotate the crank to #4 (if I recall) was at TDC and jack up the engine a bit. You also need to pull the water pump, etc. to get the timing cover off.
I think the way to go now is to use a one piece gasket from maybe FelPro as well.
I don't have a torque spec but those are 1/4" bolts so go easy.

[RustyPile]

If you're changing only the pan gasket and possibly the rear main seal, no need to remove water pump and timing chain cover. The front pan gasket piece fits in a groove along the bottom of the timing chain cover.

The reason you don't see torque specs for the pan bolts is because the various gasket compositions crush at varying torque applications.. When tightening the bolts, I watch the edge of the gasket.. When the gasket just starts to spread, that's tight enough.. Over tightening will cut the gasket, causing a leak and under tightening will also result in a leak.

[PbFut]

I just went through this a few months ago. Leaking in the rear is likely the rear main seal and is additional effort but not difficult. You will need to lift the engine slightly for a stock pan and likely more for an after market. I agree the newer Felpro single piece gasket is the way to go. You are doing 85% of the job to swap the rear main seal. I would do it even if not leaking. If your luck is like mine, it will begin 2 weeks after to do the gasket job. Do the valve covers gaskets first. Not difficult and often leak down the back and mimic an oil pan or rear main leak. if you do not have access to an engine hoist, you can lift the motor using the harmonic balancer as a jack point if you are very careful. You will need to unbolt the motor mounts to get things high enough for the front of the pan to clear and drop out.
If you do not have access to a car hoist and are doing this on your back, I hope you are a young man as this will be a job where you end up sore and dirty. If you are an older guy like me, find a car hoist or you will be sorry.

[tinman_local2]

Use the Felpro one piece gasket. The torque specs are included with the gasket. I think it is 18ft lbs for the corners and 8 ft lbs for the middle bolts.

[67C10Step]

Did this exact job over the winter. The one piece gasket is the way to go and while you are in there might consider replacing the oil pump.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

.... The one piece gasket is the way to go and while you are in there might consider replacing the oil pump.

Yep. If I am looking at it, I will replace the oil pump. Likely the timing chain too. Both of those are cheap for a small block.

[tdangle]

I had changed my pan gasket with the engine in the truck. unbolt the motor mounts and place a 2x4 between the frame mount and the engine mount, this will get the engine high enough to get the pan out. be careful with clearance for the dist and fan, otherwise no real problems. As others have said use the Felpro 1 piece gasket. To be honest if you are also replacing the rear main seal, timing chain etc, you may want to consider pulling the engine. It only takes a couple of hours tops and you can inspect/replace soft plugs, clean the engine and bay at the same time. I've pulled and swapped long blocks and had it back on the road that afternoon before.

[68gmcdude]

Sorry... I forgot to mention that my truck has the 250 inline 6 motor. Sounds like some of the previous comments and suggestions might be for other motors.

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Sorry... I forgot to mention that my truck has the 250 inline 6 motor. Sounds like some of the previous comments and suggestions might be for other motors.

You are correct, I was thinking small block V8

[Grumpy old man]

I'd pull it out and clean and paint everything and change the clutch , But after reading some of your old threads you just did that a while back . But as the old saying goes If you have it apart always change the clutch /pressure plate and throwout bearing . If it's been leaking a while , I'd still pull it out .

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Sorry... I forgot to mention that my truck has the 250 inline 6 motor. Sounds like some of the previous comments and suggestions might be for other motors.

Not really any different. Jack the engine up high enough to put a piece of 2x4 between the engine mount & stand and then drop the pan. I don't believe there are any one piece gasket for the 6 though. Good luck

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Not really any different. Jack the engine up high enough to put a piece of 2x4 between the engine mount & stand and then drop the pan. I don't believe there are any one piece gasket for the 6 though. Good luck

I believe you are correct. I'm not finding any one piece gaskets for the inline 6 motor.

[72SB]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=510&jsn=510

Use Permatex Black Ultra RTV on the end rubber pieces and a light skim coat on the rail pieces. Let RTV cure overnight before starting motor

never jack a motor up by harmonic balancer

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by 72SB

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=510&jsn=510

Use Permatex Black Ultra RTV on the end rubber pieces and a light skim coat on the rail pieces. Let RTV cure overnight before starting motor

never jack a motor up by harmonic balancer

Does the motor really need to be jacked up just to get the oil pan off? That seems kind of crazy. But then again, I've never done this before.

[72SB]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

Does the motor really need to be jacked up just to get the oil pan off? That seems kind of crazy. But then again, I've never done this before.

I have not done my truck pan gasket but every small block chevy I have done, the motor needs to be raised as typically the X member won't allow the pan to drop far enough to get it out

I assume you have confirmed it is your pan gasket leaking.....and not RMS or even the VC gasket??

oil migrates to the lowest point which can make it "appear" to be pan gasket

[Grumpy old man]

You need the space between the engine and the cross member to get the pan out , let alone replacing the oil pump while you have it apart , I'd still pull the engine rather than laying on the floor ,

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by 72SB

I have not done my truck pan gasket but every small block chevy I have done, the motor needs to be raised as typically the X member won't allow the pan to drop far enough to get it out

I assume you have confirmed it is your pan gasket leaking.....and not RMS or even the VC gasket??

oil migrates to the lowest point which can make it "appear" to be pan gasket

It appears it is the rear of the oil pan. It's the only place the engine is wet with oil.

[68gmcdude]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

You need the space between the engine and the cross member to get the pan out , let alone replacing the oil pump while you have it apart , I'd still pull the engine rather than laying on the floor ,

I have no way to pull the engine so I'll be on my back. Just spent a day on my back 2 weeks ago putting a new exhaust system on... 😆

[72SB]

Originally Posted by 68gmcdude

It appears it is the rear of the oil pan. It's the only place the engine is wet with oil.

Well it could be the pan gasket....or RMS. IMHO if its just leaking a drop or wo on ground, just put a pan under truck

If you clean the area REALLY well (brake cleaner or some degreaser) and add engine dye, you use a black light and the leak shows up like green neon

would really suck to replace a pan gasket to then discover it was RMS...

If pulling pan, IMHO, no need to also change oil pump. They rarely (read I have never known anyone it happened to) fail but with that said its staring right at you with pan off

[68gmcdude]

[QUOTE=72SB;9114638]Well it could be the pan gasket....or RMS. IMHO if its just leaking a drop or wo on ground, just put a pan under truck

This is the leak...

[72SB]

Yeah thats more than I would put up with

['68OrangeSunshine]

I've R&R-ed the oil pan and gasket on a 292. Same L6 gasket -- deeper oilpan.
That was about 25 years ago. It was a PIA, IIRC.
Good advice given about loosening motor mounts and jacking up pan with 2x4 blocks. You'll have more headroom clearance with a 250.

[68gmcdude]

Can the rear main seal be replaced without removing the transmission?

[geezer#99]

Yes it can.