Seam sealer for gutter?

[rockyrivermark]

1970 c10
So I'm working on the cab and struggling with the gutters.
My buddy works for 3M and gave me some 2 part seam sealer to try.
It was a cartridge and pumped through a air powered gun with mixing tip.
Anyway. The problem is that it's bumpy and pretty bad looking. You couldn't really smooth it off with your finger much without making it worse.
I did sand it to try and get it better but it's just not coming out that great.
Being a cabinet maker and caulking countertops often I'm quiet confident with that unless the caulk is too thick
Any thoughts on what you've used and the results greatly appreciated.
I can get it out with wire wheel on hand grinder if needed to start over.
Thanks!

Mark
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[Stocker]

I can't help much, but I'll share my experience which was kinda similar to yours as far as end results.

I got one-part 3M Urethane Seam Sealer #08367 from my local NAPA store (the only stuff they had). It's black like tar, somewhat thick, and I made a great mess but couldn't get it to lay down nice & smooth. Finally said screw it, it's good enough for an old work truck, and at least the gutter is sealed. After drying for several days, I painted it white to more-or-less match the roof. I wouldn't accept these results on a really nice truck, but I don't even notice it anymore.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MMM08367

[70STOVEBOLT]

3M 08307 is what I used for the horizontal. It was very easy to apply with a cheap manual gun I bought off eBay. The 3M 08308 is a different story. I used it on the vertical parts. It was much thicker and did not want to lay down smoothly. I used my dremel with a flap wheel to attempt to smooth it out but it left a lot of low spots that I had to fill in with a 2 part epoxy in a couple spots. The 3M stuff can be sanded in 15 minutes so it sets up fast. I laid down a tape line on the roof as a "stopping point". It worked ok. I don't have it completely smoothed out yet.

[rmr_69c10]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

3M 08307 is what I used for the horizontal. It was very easy to apply with a cheap manual gun I bought off eBay. The 3M 08308 is a different story. I used it on the vertical parts. It was much thicker and did not want to lay down smoothly. I used my dremel with a flap wheel to attempt to smooth it out but it left a lot of low spots that I had to fill in with a 2 part epoxy in a couple spots. The 3M stuff can be sanded in 15 minutes so it sets up fast. I laid down a tape line on the roof as a "stopping point". It worked ok. I don't have it completely smoothed out yet.

I'll second this, I used the 3M 08307 for the horizontal section as well and it worked pretty well. Be ready to remove the tape before it fully sets so you get a nice edge. I used a brushable sealer on the vertical sections. Not as smooth as I would have hoped, but I'll clean it up some before I paint it for good.

[trucksntrains]

I always thought you could thin it slightly with some lacquer thinner and then use your fingers to smooth it over. Do not know if that works on the two part though.

[70STOVEBOLT]

You may be able to do that, but you better hurry if you are going to, because the stuff sets up VERY quickly. I did not remove the tape as soon as I was done and I had to use a utility knife to cut the sealer along the tape line and then sand the edge to give it a chamfer.

[cypressbog]

3M 08307 self levels and works great for the horizontal drip rails.

[71BUCKET]

I used a SEM high build self level two part in a gun and it worked awesome. I can give you part number but it would be the weekend before I am around it again.

[rockyrivermark]

I ordered the 3m self leveling. See how that goes.

QUOTE=71BUCKET;7950249]I used a SEM hi build two

part in a gun and it worked awesome. I can give you part number but it would be the weekend before I am around it again.[/QUOTE]
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[Steeveedee]

I bought Auveco seam sealer from the local paint shop when I bought the paint to repaint the cab roof. Worked great, and 1/3 the price of 3M (which I will readily acknowledge makes the best products, ever, but I was being cheap).

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by cypressbog

3M 08307 self levels and works great for the horizontal drip rails.

how much do you need to order ,I need some also...

[rmr_69c10]

I found a single 200ml cartridge was enough in my case. I didn't have enough extra to be worth keeping, but it was enough to do the job.

[special-K]

I've used a #M product in a squeeze tube off the shelf at NAPA. I believe it was urethane by the texture and sty pliable consistency. I believe it was milky clear like silicone. That stuff worked on there well, looked good, but it failed. A year later I noticed it was lifted at the lip on the drip rail at the corner. Started playing with it, and realized once I got a grip on it after rolling it off the edge enough I could pull the whole deal off the truck where I found water had been laying. I had stripped to bare metal and repaired as proper as proper can be. The product had flat out failed. Fortunately no rust had developed.

I asked my body shop supply what was best and they sold me this stuff from Canada that manufacturers supposedly use. With all the confidence in the world I redid they whole deal. That stuff self leveled and set up hard hard, like seam seal should. Now I see it is all cracked up. Time to grind all that out and use what I learn is best out of this thread. Prolly SEM because everything else of theirs has been good that I have used. This product was Dominion Sure Seal. Says on the tube,"Worldwide Supplier To Automotive Manufacturers". I don't know what went wrong. It could have been the lacquer thinner I used to smooth it out? Naturally they say use their solvent, but don't they all? It also says use their prep and they probably sell their own rags, too! It says on the tube it stays flexible and mine is hard as a rock

[Fatherflash]

I used Dynatron 550 Auto Seam Sealer (Amazon) and am happy with it. I used it because the sealer does not run on vertical surfaces, can be painted, and is permanently elastic. No complaints. Would use it again.

[HO455]

I have copied a post from my Suburban's WMB thread about doing this. Using the wax and grease remover with a rag helps to get a smooth finish. You may also want to check to see if your sealant is past it's shelf life.

"Things have progressed to the point that it was time to apply the new seam sealer. The first photo shows it prepared and taped off. We initially were going to use the self leveling (photo 2) variety for the front and sides and the heavy body for the rear, but decided that the gaps above the windshield may be to large and the sealant would most likely run inside and not fill the gaps. So we used the heavy bodied on all of it. With this much seam to fill we worked in pairs to apply the sealant. Even so it was hard to stay ahead of the cure time. It came out OK, but like caulking I get more on me and things that I don't want it on. We used wax and grease remover to clean up my mess and to help feather edge it. The front was a pain to try and get smooth due to all of the misalignment of the rail and the roof panel. There is almost no channel on one corner (photo 4). There have been 2 pickups through the shop and neither one of them had the issues that mine has. And the last picture shows the final result."

There are more photos in the thread here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=698377&page=3

[special-K]

Ok, now all I need to know is what wax & grease remover did you use? Thanks for sharing.

[HO455]

I'm pretty sure it was SEM Solve.
And you are welcome sir.

[ghalperin]

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm pretty sure it was SEM Solve.
And you are welcome sir.

Was one tube of SEM 40477 enough?

[HO455]

Yes it was enough for the drip rail, but we needed a little more to do the seams on the door frames and a couple of spots under the drip rail in the door frames.

[DT1]

I just used 3M 08307 on my drip rail not two hours ago. I shot a 3/8 in bead (Against the outer lip)all around the horizontal part. No masking was required. One 200ML tube pack is all I needed. This was the first time I've ever done a drip rail seal and I can tell you it's impressive. It leveled out as smooth as glass and dried hard in minutes.

[HO455]

Just to clarify my information was from when I did my Burban. Which has about 50 yards more drip rail than a pickup. Plus the seams at the D pillars. The self leveling sealers really leave a nice finish. I was planning to use self leveling, but decided against it due to concerns that it would flow through the gaps between the panels above the windshield. (Gaps were caused by poor assembly at the factory) So I taped everything off to make clean up easier. The heavy bodied sealer is much thicker and won't flow so it has to be smoothed in to shape as you would have to do with home caulking.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by DT1

I just used 3M 08307 on my drip rail not two hours ago. I shot a 3/8 in bead (Against the outer lip)all around the horizontal part. No masking was required. One 200ML tube pack is all I needed. This was the first time I've ever done a drip rail seal and I can tell you it's impressive. It leveled out as smooth as glass and dried hard in minutes.

Hey DT1, would you mind posting a couple pics of your results? I need to redo mine and have been holding out for the right product.

[rockyrivermark]

Well I just laid down the self leveling 3m Seam sealer and I can tell you that is absolutely the product you want to use. I laid a bead then smoothed it off with a 1" disposable brush right away and it leveled out very nicely.
I'm priming the cab tomorrow and paint the following day. I'll post pics.
So far the restoration is coming along nicely. It will be on the road in about 2-3 weeks.
Pics of fender and doors just sprayed yesterday.

Originally Posted by cericd

Hey DT1, would you mind posting a couple pics of your results? I need to redo mine and have been holding out for the right product.

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