Smaller Diameter Balancer?

[theastronaut]

I'm swapping a LS into my '66 C10 and also have No Limit's rack and pinion kit. I'm wanting to section the crossmember 1.5" but the pulley will hit the rack. Are there any smaller diameter balancers, factory or aftermarket? I google searched but didn't find anything. I currently have a 5.3 for mock up but will be swapping to a LS2 eventually. Do LS2's have the same 7 5/8" diameter balancer?


I know the rack is in crooked, I just threw it together quick to check the rough clearances and forgot the passenger side mount bushing.

[truckdude239]

Is there no way to move that hose?

[Andy4639]

I don't see a problem with how it sits now other than the plastic hose and u should be able to move it. All u need is for the pulley to clear the rack by just enough to get the belt off when need be.

[theastronaut]

The hose can be relocated to the bottom side; my problem is that I want to raise the crossmember 1.5" and there is only 1 1/4" clearance now.
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[BR3W CITY]

You would need to section UP, then notch DOWN.

So pancake the crossmember, then come back and clearance notch the top.

As for your rack and pinion...can't really notch that....not sure what to say.

[theastronaut]

Yeah that's the plan, I'm going to notch the frame rails to raise the crossmember, then make a notch for the oil pan. I found 25% under drive pulleys at Summit Racing that are smaller, and I also found that Vette pulley only stock out from the front cover 2 1/8". I'll try that.
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[mooseknuckles]

why not do a "z" instead of the section crossmember?.....could save alot of problems with balancer/pulley and r&p steering geometry?....... most LS pulley set ups run a normal balancer like a ATI or fluidamper, and then a billet crank pulley....not sure how much smaller in diameter the pulley's are....

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

why not do a "z" instead of the section crossmember?.....could save alot of problems with balancer/pulley and r&p steering geometry?....... most LS pulley set ups run a normal balancer like a ATI or fluidamper, and then a billet crank pulley....not sure how much smaller in diameter the pulley's are....

A Z would still raise the engine and trans, I have a low hump floor that I want to keep. I also don't want to raise the center of gravity (by raising the engine) since I want to autocross it. I've found an underdrive balancer that is 6.2" diameter that should work.

[BR3W CITY]

careful with the aftermarket stuff and vette stuff, as the cars and vette's have a different snout length so the offset on all the front accessories needs to match.

[mooseknuckles]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

A Z would still raise the engine and trans.....

actually the motor and trans stay at the same height in relation to the ground with a "z"....the front end gets lower....but whatever, if you don't want to cut it up fine, it's your truck....I am also thinking of buying the no-limt r&p kit...I'm guessing you haven't tried it out yet?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

actually the motor and trans stay at the same height in relation to the ground with a "z"....the front end gets lower....but whatever, if you don't want to cut it up fine, it's your truck....I am also thinking of buying the no-limt r&p kit...I'm guessing you haven't tried it out yet?

That usually works to leave the engine in place, but it's already as low as possible; I couldn't do a z and leave the engine where it is. The pan is pretty much sitting on the crossmember now, before raising the crossmember in the frame rails. I'll have to make a notch for the pan like it is. I wouln't have any clearance for headers if the rails moved up in relation to the engine either.

I just got it in this past Monday and mocked it up Friday after work. It'll be a long time before I get any miles on it. So far the mounting bracket fits like a glove, and everything looks to be of good quality.