1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[T bone]

Looking good. Thanks for you efforts to share your build with the rest of us.
Cheers

[FarmerSid]

A few pics of yesterday's progress.

The cross member cleaned up with a few finishing touches and ready for final install.










A close up of the rack cut outs

[FarmerSid]

And everything tacked in place

[FarmerSid]

A few of the shock simulators I made using a worn out 3 1/2" hole saw to mimic the coil of a coil over to check for clearance.











I plan on running QA1 DS401 or DS501 coil overs and have set the top shock mounts according to QA1 specs.

Anybody have and better choice of coil overs to run?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

I plan on running QA1 DS401 or DS501 coil overs and have set the top shock mounts according to QA1 specs.

Anybody have and better choice of coil overs to run?

I ran a similar set of QA1 shocks on the Typhoon I used to have, a few years back. I really liked them, but make sure you get them lined up! Mine were a little bit out of alignment and it ate the O-rings so they started leaking pretty quickly - once I got that ironed out, they were good.

Different note, since I'm about to get into doing a stub myself, what method did you use to reference your cross-member and make sure everything was square?

[99 to Life]

looking mighty nice.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks master builder 99!

JJorgensen52 - Thanks for the tip. I think I'm going to go with the spherical bearings on the ends just for that reason.

It's going to be tuff to explain how I got the axle center marked on the frame. I have a cross brace across the frame just to the back of the IFS cross member. I laid a 4' ruler parallel to the frame rails across it and the core support member in the middle and clamped it down. I did this cause the frame rails are not parallel. I put a wheel in the fender opening and centered it. Then squared up the wheel to that ruler. Equal distance from the back and front of the tire to the ruler. I then laid a round rod in the center hole of the wheel till it touched the frame and rested and leveled it on a jack stand about a foot away from the outside the wheel. The rod was about 3' long.

I squared the rod to the rim and placed a mark on the frame. I then transferred the center mark to the other rail by using a framing square against the 4' ruler still clamped parallel to the frame rails. I also measured many times from factory frame holes and the front of the frame to ensure the axle center mark was correct.

Hope you understand how I did it.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Hope you understand how I did it.

That makes good sense. Did you check the front to rear alignment? That's my biggest concern, I think, that I'll end up with the two out of line and then the truck will want to "crab" down the road

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

That makes good sense. Did you check the front to rear alignment? That's my biggest concern, I think, that I'll end up with the two out of line and then the truck will want to "crab" down the road

I hear ya and I thought of the same thing. My rear is not in yet but the rear will be installed in reference to the IFS. The only way that that will work is if the frame is square which mine is. I left a few factory frame holes to use as reference just for this instance. I always use the same tape measure when measuring things. It pays to always double check and verify things as you go. Things seem to change even though you changed nothing. Always measure and remeasure as you go.

Thanks for quizzing me. Makes me rethink if what I did is correct.

[T bone]

Thanks Sid.
I'm learning a lot watching your build. I wish I had more to offer back but I'm just getting into this type of work. The pace of your progress is amazing.

[Advanced Design]

Sid, that looks really really good! Shame on me for not remembering you made the crossmember. It is a work of art!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Thanks for quizzing me. Makes me rethink if what I did is correct.

Oh no trouble ... I'm learning and getting ideas so it's a win for everybody! Your fab work looks great, by the way.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks all! Just finishing the upper shock mounts. The shocks will be at about a 22-23 degree angle.

Gotta hit up Youngrodder for some advice on the LT1.

[solidaxel]

Do you already have the LT 1?
There is some nice new technology out there and it looks like it is going to be around a long time .........LS!

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Do you already have the LT 1?
There is some nice new technology out there and it looks like it is going to be around a long time .........LS!

I agree when I started my project the LS1 was double the costs of an LT1 and the LS conversions were not as common. The LT1 to do it right is not cheap. No to discourage you Sid but when the time comes for a power plant for my Suburban, I will strongly consider an LS engine.

Marc

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Thanks all! Just finishing the upper shock mounts. The shocks will be at about a 22-23 degree angle.

Gotta hit up Youngrodder for some advice on the LT1.

I hit you back. If there is any other info or pictures that you need let me know.

Thanks
Marc

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

I agree when I started my project the LS1 was double the costs of an LT1 and the LS conversions were not as common. The LT1 to do it right is not cheap. No to discourage you Sid but when the time comes for a power plant for my Suburban, I will strongly consider an LS engine.

Marc

The last sentence says it all !!!!
Youngrodder has a lot to say !!

Besides as I remember the LS is made right down the road from you in the K-W area!!

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Do you already have the LT 1?
There is some nice new technology out there and it looks like it is going to be around a long time .........LS!

Yes I do have the LT1. It's still in a complete, running and driving 95 Buick Roadmaster. I only paid $400 for it.

I hear ya on the LS but around here, 5.3's go for around $1500 - $2000 with computer etc but with no trans. I found a L33 aluminum 5.3 from an 06 truck with computer etc but with no trans for $2500. It has 230000 km (143000 miles) on it to.

You don't see the LT1 too often but see tons of LS swaps. Wanna be a bit different. Still not 100% decided but leaning more the LT1 route right now.

Would an LS 5.3 have better mileage?

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

I agree when I started my project the LS1 was double the costs of an LT1 and the LS conversions were not as common. The LT1 to do it right is not cheap. No to discourage you Sid but when the time comes for a power plant for my Suburban, I will strongly consider an LS engine.

Marc

Thanks Marc. An LS would be nice but I have a complete, running and driving LT1 car sitting here with only 140000 km (87000 miles) on it that I only paid $400 for. I've noticed too that there is tons more goodies for LS engines as compared to LT1's. I'd jump on a L33 5.3 if I could find one at a decent price.

My head is just'a spinn'in

[solidaxel]

Not to worry, the engine mounts and trans mounts are in the same location as the LT !!!

[FarmerSid]

Thanks solidaxel...Are the LT1 engine mounts the same as a regular SBC? I have access to a 5.7 vortec block to use as a template.

Anymore pictures of your mounts?

[FarmerSid]

I got my final upper shock mounts figured out tonight. Cut out, tacked and test fitted. I called QA1 today and they gave me all kinds of measurements which lead to the selection of the DD401 coil over. It's a double adjustable with spherical bearings. Another option is the DS401 which is single adjustable with spherical bearings. I could also get the DD402 or DS402 which is double or single adjustable respectively but both with bushings. Either way, I think going with bearings will help if the mounts are not 110% perfectly aligned. The mounts need to be 1 1/4" inside.

All the above shock choices have the same 14" extended, 10 1/8" compressed and 11 1/4" - 12 1/2" recommended ride height measurements.

So with all this info I set my shock simulators to 11 7/8" eye to eye and made the upper mounts so I have plenty of clearance for upper control arm alignment and that I had lots of clearance between the mount and the coil. All said and done I have about 3/8" clearance between the coil and mount and the shock angle is about 20 degrees. The coil is 3 1/2" diameter and I used a worn out 3 1/2" hole saw to simulate the coils. The distance between the center of the top mounting hole and the top of the spring is 1 5/8" according to QA1. QA1 suggested that I keep the shock angle under 30 degrees but 15-20 would be best. I came out to 20 so that's where she will be at.

I will make a pattern of the upper mount for anyone that wants to copy my work. I have pdf's of all the parts to make the same cross member as I did. My plans use a C4 steering rack. All that you need to do is print the pattern out to scale, trace and cut it out. I measured my stock cross member and made my own from it. A good buddy Stockish shared his info with me but I ended up modifying things according to the cross member my parts came off of. My IFS is the later version which is a bit wider than the earlier version.

Anyway's, here's a few pictures of my shock simulators. The lower mount shock mounting hole is offset a bit which gives me about 3 degrees of angle adjustment by just rotating the mount 180 degrees.

[FarmerSid]

a few more...

















Tomorrow I will finish the other upper mount and finally have the front be able to support its own weight. Everything so far is coming out dimensionally correct side to side which is awesome considering my abilities.

Next up is the rear. Man what a lot of work...........better pay off in the end

[Advanced Design]

Looks really good Sid! Generous to share the patterns. I remember Stockish build...didn't he sell his truck?
I vote LS and it is surprising they are so expensive there. And an LT1 is a good running engine. They were pretty cool in the 95 Roadmasters. Recall the opti-spark in a Buick differs from the F body.
Dumb question...is any additional support needed for the base of the coil over where it bolts to the LCA?

[FarmerSid]

Yes he sold the truck. The roadmaster roasts the the tires with the LT1. Lots of torque. Optispark has been an issue but mine has the vented newer version. Still original and I understand the past issues with it.

No additional support needed for the LCA mounts as that's where the factory composite spring mounted. It's about 3/8" thick.