1 or 2 piece shafts ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Boog** · 10-11-2006, 11:21 PM

Are there any advantages to running a 2 piece driveshaft over a 1 pc in a 2 wd short wheelbase truck?

farside847 · 10-12-2006, 01:17 PM

Only if you like replaceing carrier bearings.... I just replaced mine with a 1 piece becuase my two piece would only last 6 months at a time between rebuilds...

smoknbarrels · 10-12-2006, 01:38 PM

when you went to a 1 pc drive shaft did one from another vehicle fit? or did u have it custom built?
I have a lwb, it would be nice if there was a direct fit from some other truck..

Longhorn Man · 10-12-2006, 04:15 PM

A one piece shaft is a great band aid to repairing the actual problem... like, if your bearing goes out ever 6 months, they should last more like 1 or 2 HUNDRED THOUSAND MILES

A one piece is nice to have when it is time to redo the U-joints and stuff, some ppl will tell you they are stronger (BS) but in all reality, there's more advantages to a multi piece shaft.
But no body wants them, so it's a moot point.

71SWBChevy · 10-12-2006, 04:50 PM

Hey andy what are the advantages to a multi piece? And why do so many carrier bearings go out so often on people? I know people with hundreds of thousands of miles on the old 2 piece without a problem. I was planning on putting the 2 piece back in unless someone gives me a great reason I should pay to have a 1 piece made.

RSRXION · 10-12-2006, 08:03 PM

Mine is a 3 piece shaft. But then again the bed is 19 feet long. The advantage to a multi piece shaft ( in my opinion ) is ride comfort and durability. The use of carrier bearings and slip joints allows better chassis and suspension movement without binding. When balanced properly there is no detectable vibration thereby yielding smooth ride quality. I suspect that the cause of the frequent carrier bearing failure is a direct result of a balance issue. Lastly , 2 short shafts splined together are much stronger when resisting twist forces . JMHO, Dean

Longhorn Man · 10-12-2006, 09:42 PM

You can have more extreem angles when you have more than one joint. Example, picture a monster truck in your mind... not the new mega dollar ones, but the ones of the early 80's where anyone with an old truck and huge farm tires was able to play. Now imagine the drive line angle. If you had a C-bearing in the middle, you could divide that angle in 1/2. From the tranny to the bearing, you have X degrees... then from the C-bearing to the diff, you could add more angle to it... another X degrees.
As mentioned, the splines with shorter shafts are stronger than a single shaft
Small advantage, when towing you unbolt the rear one, slide it off the front shaft, no tranny fluid leaking. Toss the rear shaft in the bed, and lets go. No tranny damage, tow it all day long with the rear tires on the ground.
The longer the sahft, the more precise it has to be, both on strength, and trueness, and once you get to a certian length (right at 6 feet) the shafts commonly start to sag ever so slightly, and then 'whip' as you spin it faster. This is why most drive shaft shops will send LWB truck owners away. If they do say they can build it, then they have to make it out of a larger diameter pipe, which causes other problems under the truck.

Common problems for carrier bearing failure...
Cheap parts. many of the new ones need a bead of weld added to make up for where the tiwaneese sweat shop only spot welded.
Shaft out of ballance, or not phased properly
Incorrect placement of the C-bearing... not installed far enough on the shaft
Not lubricating the slip joint
Bad motor mount causing bad driveline angles
improper instalation (IE, putting it on with a hammer)

Please, anyone feel free to add to my list.

69TowRig · 10-13-2006, 12:50 AM

One-piece shafts have less rotating mass than two-piece, due to the lack of extra yokes, joint, and bearings.

One-piece shafts take more effort to balance properly, and if damaged can whip pretty bad.

IvelDesigns · 10-13-2006, 01:30 AM

Ok, so what about for lowered trucks? I have a 69 lwb with a 2 piece shaft. I will be dropping a new engine in it 400hp and a 700R4, and had planned on having a single drive shaft made. Should i? or should i keep the 2 shaft and just get a shorter front shaft when i put the 700r4 in?

**1970 CST Short Wide** · 10-13-2006, 09:36 AM

I've had both LWB and SWB with 1 piece shafts. I like the 1 piece in the SWB but recommend the 2 piece in the LWB with that Hi performance center support that some one showed here a while back in a nice billet housing . The 1 piece we had in the LWB never did feel right to me. I have NO problems with the 1 piece in my Shorty

crazy longhorn · 10-13-2006, 10:45 AM

The long wb trucks, do need a 2 pc shaft for all reasons mentioned above. IMO, the swb trucks will NOT benefit by having a 2 pc shaft. The shaft is plenty short enough to balance out fine as a 1 pc, & you have done away with extra parts, & potential extra problems

I have played the headaches with the 2 pc shafts in several old trucks. They are heavy as already mentioned, expensive to build/repair, & a little more finnicky to set up (due to the extra U joint). That said, I still have to run a 2 pc in my longhorn due to the lenght. I have been told that a carbon fiber shaft can support the extra lenght without problems......other than an empty wallet

L

71SWBChevy · 10-13-2006, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

I have been told that a carbon fiber shaft can support the extra lenght without problems......other than an empty wallet

L

Just go to Subway and you will get a fat wallet which you can cure with a carbon fiber shaft!

72 Cheyenne402 · 10-13-2006, 11:49 AM

I had a one piece shaft in my 72 LWB for almost 2 hours before took it out and put the 2 piece with the carrier bearing and slipshaft back in. I prefer the two piece because for ride quality, duribility, and it felt like my 402 was going to twist the one piece shaft in two. Maybe on a SWB of a leaf spring rear end it would be OK but, a one piece is not for me.

albertarose · 03-14-2007, 03:45 PM

crazy longhorn I am concidering tying the one piece driveshaft on my 69 short box do I have to have one made up ? what else can you tell me about this swap ? thanks ..leon

Longhorn Man · 03-14-2007, 04:31 PM

some SWB trucks had them stock.
My old 69 SWB had a small block in the correct location, a short shaft TH350, and the drive shaft was 4 ft 10 inches. This was with a coil spring rear at stock height.

**LockDoc** · 03-14-2007, 05:09 PM

-
For a carrier bearing I would go straight to the Chevy dealer, if they are still available. No way I would put a cheap one in if I had a choice.....

Just my 2¢ worth.

LockDoc

Longhorn Man · 03-14-2007, 05:27 PM

For a drive shaft?

**LockDoc** · 03-14-2007, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

For a drive shaft?

Sorry, I should have stated for a "Carrier Bearing".....

Fixed in original post.

LockDoc

albertarose · 03-14-2007, 06:59 PM

Thanks Richard To be more specific its a stock heights suspension with coils 69 shorty it was an orig 396 truck but had a 350 when I got it I found a 396 and mounted it in what I believe is in the stock location ..again it has ths pulsing vibration that Im quite sure is in the drive train ..I had replaced the steady and U jounts trying to make it go away without success ..I will still try changing yoke vrs rear shaft position one half turn as you suggested to the other guy ..My friend thinks I should go to one piece shaft because of less moving parts = less troubles..how will the shaft line up without the steady bearing in use ? do I need to change the cross member to clear or anything else you can think of ? thanks again for your reply...Leon

10-11-2006, 11:21 PM	#1
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 12,987	1 or 2 piece shafts ? Are there any advantages to running a 2 piece driveshaft over a 1 pc in a 2 wd short wheelbase truck? __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

10-12-2006, 01:17 PM	#2
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 991	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? Only if you like replaceing carrier bearings.... I just replaced mine with a 1 piece becuase my two piece would only last 6 months at a time between rebuilds... __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

10-12-2006, 01:38 PM	#3
smoknbarrels Registered Mail Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 513	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? when you went to a 1 pc drive shaft did one from another vehicle fit? or did u have it custom built? I have a lwb, it would be nice if there was a direct fit from some other truck.. __________________ '67 chev 496, lwb to swb, bagged - pro street project

10-12-2006, 04:15 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? A one piece shaft is a great band aid to repairing the actual problem... like, if your bearing goes out ever 6 months, they should last more like 1 or 2 HUNDRED THOUSAND MILES A one piece is nice to have when it is time to redo the U-joints and stuff, some ppl will tell you they are stronger (BS) but in all reality, there's more advantages to a multi piece shaft. But no body wants them, so it's a moot point.

10-12-2006, 04:50 PM	#5
71SWBChevy Post Whore Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Owensboro KY Posts: 11,905	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? Hey andy what are the advantages to a multi piece? And why do so many carrier bearings go out so often on people? I know people with hundreds of thousands of miles on the old 2 piece without a problem. I was planning on putting the 2 piece back in unless someone gives me a great reason I should pay to have a 1 piece made. __________________ Drew '71 Chevy 350/TH350 Hugger Orange Currently just a rolling frame, body work soon to follow!!! Check out my Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=212927 Daily Driver: 1997 Chevrolet S-10 with more gears than pistons

10-12-2006, 08:03 PM	#6
RSRXION Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Arkansas Posts: 227	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? Mine is a 3 piece shaft. But then again the bed is 19 feet long. The advantage to a multi piece shaft ( in my opinion ) is ride comfort and durability. The use of carrier bearings and slip joints allows better chassis and suspension movement without binding. When balanced properly there is no detectable vibration thereby yielding smooth ride quality. I suspect that the cause of the frequent carrier bearing failure is a direct result of a balance issue. Lastly , 2 short shafts splined together are much stronger when resisting twist forces . JMHO, Dean __________________ "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Ben Franklin Last edited by RSRXION; 10-12-2006 at 08:04 PM.

10-12-2006, 09:42 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? You can have more extreem angles when you have more than one joint. Example, picture a monster truck in your mind... not the new mega dollar ones, but the ones of the early 80's where anyone with an old truck and huge farm tires was able to play. Now imagine the drive line angle. If you had a C-bearing in the middle, you could divide that angle in 1/2. From the tranny to the bearing, you have X degrees... then from the C-bearing to the diff, you could add more angle to it... another X degrees. As mentioned, the splines with shorter shafts are stronger than a single shaft Small advantage, when towing you unbolt the rear one, slide it off the front shaft, no tranny fluid leaking. Toss the rear shaft in the bed, and lets go. No tranny damage, tow it all day long with the rear tires on the ground. The longer the sahft, the more precise it has to be, both on strength, and trueness, and once you get to a certian length (right at 6 feet) the shafts commonly start to sag ever so slightly, and then 'whip' as you spin it faster. This is why most drive shaft shops will send LWB truck owners away. If they do say they can build it, then they have to make it out of a larger diameter pipe, which causes other problems under the truck. Common problems for carrier bearing failure... Cheap parts. many of the new ones need a bead of weld added to make up for where the tiwaneese sweat shop only spot welded. Shaft out of ballance, or not phased properly Incorrect placement of the C-bearing... not installed far enough on the shaft Not lubricating the slip joint Bad motor mount causing bad driveline angles improper instalation (IE, putting it on with a hammer) Please, anyone feel free to add to my list.

10-13-2006, 12:50 AM	#8
69TowRig Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 894	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? One-piece shafts have less rotating mass than two-piece, due to the lack of extra yokes, joint, and bearings. One-piece shafts take more effort to balance properly, and if damaged can whip pretty bad. __________________ -Chris Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid. Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals...

10-13-2006, 01:30 AM	#9
IvelDesigns Commander Taco Bello Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Des Moines, Iowa Posts: 2,232	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? Ok, so what about for lowered trucks? I have a 69 lwb with a 2 piece shaft. I will be dropping a new engine in it 400hp and a 700R4, and had planned on having a single drive shaft made. Should i? or should i keep the 2 shaft and just get a shorter front shaft when i put the 700r4 in? __________________ Bagged '50 3600 - Bumper punchin' road kill since 2009... Bagged '69 C10 Longbed - Bumper punchin' road kill since 2007...

10-13-2006, 09:36 AM	#10
1970 CST Short Wide Senior Moment Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Pittsburg Ca Posts: 4,059	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? I've had both LWB and SWB with 1 piece shafts. I like the 1 piece in the SWB but recommend the 2 piece in the LWB with that Hi performance center support that some one showed here a while back in a nice billet housing . The 1 piece we had in the LWB never did feel right to me. I have NO problems with the 1 piece in my Shorty __________________ 1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN 2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son 71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son 2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son 2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car 2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride Pittsburg Ca 94565

10-13-2006, 10:45 AM	#11
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? The long wb trucks, do need a 2 pc shaft for all reasons mentioned above. IMO, the swb trucks will NOT benefit by having a 2 pc shaft. The shaft is plenty short enough to balance out fine as a 1 pc, & you have done away with extra parts, & potential extra problems I have played the headaches with the 2 pc shafts in several old trucks. They are heavy as already mentioned, expensive to build/repair, & a little more finnicky to set up (due to the extra U joint). That said, I still have to run a 2 pc in my longhorn due to the lenght. I have been told that a carbon fiber shaft can support the extra lenght without problems......other than an empty wallet L __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

10-13-2006, 11:49 AM	#13
72 Cheyenne402 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 581	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? I had a one piece shaft in my 72 LWB for almost 2 hours before took it out and put the 2 piece with the carrier bearing and slipshaft back in. I prefer the two piece because for ride quality, duribility, and it felt like my 402 was going to twist the one piece shaft in two. Maybe on a SWB of a leaf spring rear end it would be OK but, a one piece is not for me. __________________ 1972 Cheyenne 402 LWB 2005 Silverado X-Cab 5.3L 2004 John Deere L120 20HP B&S

03-14-2007, 03:45 PM	#14
albertarose Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: alberta canada Posts: 162	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? crazy longhorn I am concidering tying the one piece driveshaft on my 69 short box do I have to have one made up ? what else can you tell me about this swap ? thanks ..leon

03-14-2007, 04:31 PM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? some SWB trucks had them stock. My old 69 SWB had a small block in the correct location, a short shaft TH350, and the drive shaft was 4 ft 10 inches. This was with a coil spring rear at stock height.

03-14-2007, 05:09 PM	#16
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,334	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? - For a carrier bearing I would go straight to the Chevy dealer, if they are still available. No way I would put a cheap one in if I had a choice..... Just my 2¢ worth. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - Last edited by LockDoc; 03-14-2007 at 06:12 PM.



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03-14-2007, 05:27 PM	#17
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? For a drive shaft?

03-14-2007, 06:59 PM	#19
albertarose Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: alberta canada Posts: 162	Re: 1 or 2 piece shafts ? Thanks Richard To be more specific its a stock heights suspension with coils 69 shorty it was an orig 396 truck but had a 350 when I got it I found a 396 and mounted it in what I believe is in the stock location ..again it has ths pulsing vibration that Im quite sure is in the drive train ..I had replaced the steady and U jounts trying to make it go away without success ..I will still try changing yoke vrs rear shaft position one half turn as you suggested to the other guy ..My friend thinks I should go to one piece shaft because of less moving parts = less troubles..how will the shaft line up without the steady bearing in use ? do I need to change the cross member to clear or anything else you can think of ? thanks again for your reply...Leon

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