Shaving firewall/floor seam

[57taskforce]

I'm getting ready to tear into the rust on my k/20. I had thought about throwing a complete floor at it but upon further inspection it's really only rusted bad on the outer sections and the front pans. The supports are salvageable, the rear inner floor sections below the ends of the fuel tank are good, etc. I'm just gonna patch what I've got. My question is if I'm lookin at the pictures online right it appears that the front pans shave the seam between the firewall and the floor. Really want to hear from someone who has done this job before as to how it turned out. I've done a couple of complete floors before and I've got body experience. I really just am unsure that I want to shave the seam. That's what it boils down to. I've got to believe the bends add strength to the cab.
I'm considering these pans:http://www.autometaldirect.com/tripl...-lh-p-870.html

[Blown06]

The bends will add strength, think of it like a piece of angle iron under there versus a piece of flat bar.

I'm looking at welding my factory seams on my 71. The factory seam sealer has deteriorated and the spot welds have gaps on the joints. Curious to hear what others have to say about it so I had to post.

[57taskforce]

Ttt

[71blksuper4x4]

Tyler, I bent my pans with a hammer and dolly on the crew cab to keep the seam.

[57taskforce]

Trevor thanks for that I'm just now checking things, been on the road all week. Was the fire wall side of your seam ok? I notice you used the partial rear outer floor patch, is that as far as it goes back or did you modify it for the crew cab build?

[71blksuper4x4]

It wasn't the partial to begin with. I used the full piece and cut where I needed to. The suburban floor overlaps itself right there via a flange. I modified my patches to continue exactly like the floor was made at gm on my crew. The full piece goes back from flange to back of cab. Trevor