55.2-59 Torch specs mustang ii front end?

[Missyblue]

Hey there. Finished all my welding and hoping to put my front end together to get her rolling. My kit didnt come with specs but I have found some in a video. Just curious if anyone has torque specs to share ? Looking for the brakes sides of things.....but I also am just making it a roller for now would you put on the brake pads and everything or not till the engine is in? I dont think I will have to take it apart again all the welding and painting will be done.
Oh and steering column install......I am in a situation where my truck has to be moved a but so the column would be handy but I'm putting in the engine for a bit.....best to wait or could I maybe install and just shve to modify later ? Using a 350v8

Thank you

[_Ogre]

torch specs? just fire it up and hack away

seriously... metal to metal just make it f'ing tight.
ball joints, thread them in snug put it in a vise and use the arm to tighten them
with rubber just snug it up to meet or slightly compress the rubber. there's a reason for the nylock nuts on the big bolt

it looks like your using spray bomb paint on the A-arms and frame
imo that won't last long on the road, spray bomb paint is soo thin it takes 20 coats to make a mil, you need many mils
no one will see the frame once the body is on, this is a good spot for heavy duty brush on paint
i used por15 it has weathered well over 10 yrs and 36k miles, but there many coatings available for a frame
eastwood has rust encapsulator, even rustoleum will hold up decently over a spray bomb
i powder coated my steering knuckles, it was peeling in a year. i don't thing cast iron is good for powder cuz of the oil in it

i had everything together when i did mine, including the springs and shocks
instead of the shocks and springs, cut a pipe to length in place of the shock that holds the lower a-arm level

i'd rather have the engine in for steering shaft, but our trucks were designed for a v8 with a straight column. go for it
you can turn the wheels by hand with the rack on, we pushed my truk around the shop and on/off a trailer
coming off the trailer was exciting, but that was gravity and lack of brakes more than anything
unless your using a hydroboost, you won't have all those hydraulic hoses in your way
but you get the general idea of how much room for steering (that the earlier trucks don' have)

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

torch specs? just fire it up and hack away

seriously... metal to metal just make it f'ing tight.
ball joints, thread them in snug put it in a vise and use the arm to tighten them
with rubber just snug it up to meet or slightly compress the rubber. there's a reason for the nylock nuts on the big bolt


it looks like your using spray bomb paint on the A-arms and frame
imo that won't last long on the road, spray bomb paint is soo thin it takes 20 coats to make a mil, you need many mils
no one will see the frame once the body is on, this is a good spot for heavy duty brush on paint
i used por15 it has weathered well over 10 yrs and 36k miles, but there many coatings available for a frame
eastwood has rust encapsulator, even rustoleum will hold up decently over a spray bomb
i powder coated my steering knuckles, it was peeling in a year. i don't thing cast iron is good for powder cuz of the oil in it

i had everything together when i did mine, including the springs and shocks
instead of the shocks and springs, cut a pipe to length in place of the shock that holds the lower a-arm level

i'd rather have the engine in for steering shaft, but our trucks were designed for a v8 with a straight column. go for it
you can turn the wheels by hand with the rack on, we pushed my truk around the shop and on/off a trailer
coming off the trailer was exciting, but that was gravity and lack of brakes more than anything
unless your using a hydroboost, you won't have all those hydraulic hoses in your way
but you get the general idea of how much room for steering (that the earlier trucks don' have)

Hey thanks for the tips! I do plan to brush on a thicker paint on the frame I just had some leftover spray and wanted to see what it would look like haha. I hadn't planned to hand paint the arms so I better rethink that.
And yeah i meant torque specs it auto corrected me. Ok maybe I'll wait on the steering and try just using the rack like you say. But then he cant pull me around for my Sunday pretend dream drives haha 🤣

[mr48chev]

I'd have to go out in the garage and dig out my old Chiltons or Motor manual but I am not sure that there are exact specs on the torque on the bolts on an MII

Snagged from Hotrodders dot com from 2007

badA31
Registered
Joined May 21, 2002
70 Posts
#2 • Jan 9, 2007
Marv, I installed a factory M/II front under my A coupe years back. I still have the pages I copied from an old shop manual back then. There are some torque specs in it but they may not all apply to your setup. I'll give you what's here.
Lower arm to crossmember- 95-110
upper arm to frame- 95-110
stabilizer bar to lower arm-15-18
ball joint to spindle(upper&lower) 75-90 (tighten to minimum and then tighten to nearest cotter pin slot)
strut to lower arm 40-60
stabilizer bar to frame 6-12
shock upper attachment 22-30
shock to lower arm 70-80
brake backing plate and cylinder assy. to spindle 20-35
strut to frame 70-80
STEERING:

support yoke cover to housing 15-20
pinion cover to gear housing 15-20
steering gear to crossmember 80-100
connecting rod end to spindle arm 35-47(torque to 35 and go to nearest hole)

I hope you'll find what you need in that list! :thumbup:

You will have to sort though and see what you can use from that.

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd have to go out in the garage and dig out my old Chiltons or Motor manual but I am not sure that there are exact specs on the torque on the bolts on an MII

Snagged from Hotrodders dot com from 2007

badA31
Registered
Joined May 21, 2002
70 Posts
#2 • Jan 9, 2007
Marv, I installed a factory M/II front under my A coupe years back. I still have the pages I copied from an old shop manual back then. There are some torque specs in it but they may not all apply to your setup. I'll give you what's here.
Lower arm to crossmember- 95-110
upper arm to frame- 95-110
stabilizer bar to lower arm-15-18
ball joint to spindle(upper&lower) 75-90 (tighten to minimum and then tighten to nearest cotter pin slot)
strut to lower arm 40-60
stabilizer bar to frame 6-12
shock upper attachment 22-30
shock to lower arm 70-80
brake backing plate and cylinder assy. to spindle 20-35
strut to frame 70-80
STEERING:

support yoke cover to housing 15-20
pinion cover to gear housing 15-20
steering gear to crossmember 80-100
connecting rod end to spindle arm 35-47(torque to 35 and go to nearest hole)

I hope you'll find what you need in that list! :thumbup:

You will have to sort though and see what you can use from that.

Cool thanks for the info

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Missyblue

But then he cant pull me around for my Sunday pretend dream drives haha 🤣

we all want video when you do!
you can still sit on a milk crate in the cab and make motor and shifting noises