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Old 10-09-2014, 10:47 PM   #1
TBONE1964
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TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Hello all,

From time to time, I get request to instruct on how to wire a full gauge cluster into a truck that was a warning light cluster.

I will try and make this as easy to follow as possible. Please ask questions as needed.

The first thing you need to know is that the actual connector for the warning light and the gauge cluster are the same. The difference is the way the terminals are plugged in.

The first photos I show are diagram photos showing the difference between the way the two are wired. Credit goes to GMC Pauls web site for these diagrams. I use them often.

On the connector, there is 1 - 6 on one side and 7-12 on the other.

Here is what you need to move and what stays the same.

Move the following wires on the connector to change from a warning light to a full gauge cluster.

Move the wire in the number 6 position to the number 7 location.

Move the dark green wire in the number 5 position to 6 location

Number 4 location has no change and remains the same.

Move the number 7 pink wire to the number 3 position.

Number 2 position has no change and remains the same.

Number 1 postion is removed and taped off. You will need to add a wire from the alternator to the number 1 position. (See wiring schematics in service manual or equivalent)

Move the two grey wires in the number 12 location to the number 8 location. These are for dash lights.

Move the number 11 position to the number 9 position.

Number 10 has no change and remains the same.

Move the number 9 position to the number 11 position.

Add a black wire to #12 from the battery. (See wiring schematics in service manual or equivalent)
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Last edited by TBONE1964; 10-09-2014 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:04 PM   #2
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Now that you know which wires to move to which position on the connector, I will demonstrate how to remove the terminals from the connector and change there location.

It helps if you have a tool like the one in the photo or equivalent. You can even use a heavy duty paper clip. Anything that will fit in the slot with out force and will bend the tab on the terminal.

As seen in the photo, you need to push the tool into the slot on the connector as shown. This will release the terminal from the connector. Once the tab on the terminal is pushed in by the tool, you can remove the terminal from the connector. To install, you will have to bend the tab on the terminal to make sure it locks into the connector.

This may take a little practice but once you get the hang of it, very simple to do.

This will make sure that you have a clean professional looking wiring connector to plug into your new gauge cluster.

Please ask questions as they come up. I am attempting to help those who might other wise be reluctant to attempt this otherwise.

Thank you for your time
Take care,
Tom
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:39 PM   #3
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Thanks Tom for the "how to". Giving up the secrets that provide you with an income restoring clusters is a noble gesture!

Anyone thinking of having a cluster redone should talk with Tom. Stand up guy!
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Old 10-14-2014, 01:01 PM   #4
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWFISHER View Post
Thanks Tom for the "how to". Giving up the secrets that provide you with an income restoring clusters is a noble gesture!

Anyone thinking of having a cluster redone should talk with Tom. Stand up guy!

Hey Jon,

Thank you for the kind words. I realized after I did this that it has been covered in the past. It is more of a follow up for a customer who buys a cluster that has bought one to change from warning lights to gauges.

I will see you soon. Lunch is on me next time.

Take care,
Tom
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:21 AM   #5
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Hi TBONE. I know this post is old but found it super informative since I'm about to do a cluster conversion. I only have a few questions to complete what I need to know before starting the conversion.


1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?

2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?

3) some people say you can use the factory repop tach with HEI even though it says clearly you can't. Can I or not? If not is there a way around this? Tach filter or??

4) best way to run line through firewall for oil pressure?

5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.

If TBONE isn't available, anyone please feel free to chime in.


Thanks in advance!!!

-Brian
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:07 AM   #6
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20 View Post
Hi TBONE. I know this post is old but found it super informative since I'm about to do a cluster conversion. I only have a few questions to complete what I need to know before starting the conversion.


1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?


2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?

3) some people say you can use the factory repop tach with HEI even though it says clearly you can't. Can I or not? If not is there a way around this? Tach filter or??

4) best way to run line through firewall for oil pressure?

5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.

If TBONE isn't available, anyone please feel free to chime in.


Thanks in advance!!!

-Brian
Hi Brain,

I will answer what I know in RED below your questions. I hope the answers help.

1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?

I am not 100% sure how this is routed to the alternator. I know it should come out at the bulk head and be part of the light harness. The fuse is near the voltage regulator on the firewall. Yes you will need the 4 amp fuse in line.




2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?

Yes, from the factory it is about 3 or 4 inches of pig tail with a short style glass 4 amp fuse. From my understanding, you will need 4 amp in line fuse on both the #1 and #12 wires. Anything different will cause the gauge not to work correctly

3) some people say you can use the factory repop tach with HEI even though it says clearly you can't. Can I or not? If not is there a way around this? Tach filter or??

I have installed at least 10 aftermarket tachs and have had no one contact me about a tach not working. I use counterpart aftermarket tachs from the truck and car shop in Orange, CA. Using a filter is something I would suggest on any tach, factory or aftermarket. It cleans up the signal.


4) best way to run line through firewall for oil pressure?

There should be a hole just above the washer hose grommet hole. That is the one that the factory line passes through. The factory had two lines that joined together with a coupling on the engine compartment side. You can you a one piece just make sure you coil the extra length on the engine compartment side. The coil(s) actually keep the line from "buzzing". I would use either copper or steel line.

5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.

They are called terminals but not sure the actual technical name for them for this applicatiopn. You can see in my photos on this thread how to remove them from the connector. Both non gauge (warning light) clusters and full gauge clusters share the same 12 pin connector but the terminals are located in different places. I have never been able to source new ones so if you need extras, you will have to get them from a junk harness.



Take care,
Tom
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:07 PM   #7
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Classic Industries sells the plug and the Terminals. Just put this in the search bar on their site: BW900216 - 1967-81 Pinted Circuit Board Connector
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:39 PM   #8
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBONE1964 View Post
1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?

I am not 100% sure how this is routed to the alternator. I know it should come out at the bulk head and be part of the light harness. The fuse is near the voltage regulator on the firewall. Yes you will need the 4 amp fuse in line.
Yes, that wire does run through the bulkhead connector and was originally part of the front light harness. There is a factory splice inside the harness where several large red wires join together. The 4A fuse for this leg of the battery gauge (ammeter) wiring should hook to that splice. The wires going to the alternator can stay the same.

Here is a diagram borrowed from another post on this site (the splice is circled).


Quote:
Originally Posted by TBONE1964 View Post
2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?

Yes, from the factory it is about 3 or 4 inches of pig tail with a short style glass 4 amp fuse. From my understanding, you will need 4 amp in line fuse on both the #1 and #12 wires. Anything different will cause the gauge not to work correctly
I agree. Using 4A fuses on the battery / alternator ends of the #1 & #12 wires will protect those wires in the event one of them is ever shorted to ground. The fuses will also protect the wires and the meter movement from trying to pass too much current should the "shunt" wire ever develop an open circuit due to a bad connection.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TBONE1964 View Post
5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.

They are called terminals but not sure the actual technical name for them for this applicatiopn. You can see in my photos on this thread how to remove them from the connector. Both non gauge (warning light) clusters and full gauge clusters share the same 12 pin connector but the terminals are located in different places. I have never been able to source new ones so if you need extras, you will have to get them from a junk harness.
I believe they are called "bow" type terminals. In this case, I think a person could salvage the terminals off the brown (gen light) and dark blue (oil light) wires since those wires are no longer used with the gauge cluster.

And like Ewr101 said, Classic Industries does sell a kit that includes new terminals along with the plastic connector shell --> http://www.classicindustries.com/pro.../bw900216.html
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:43 PM   #9
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy View Post
Yes, that wire does run through the bulkhead connector and was originally part of the front light harness. There is a factory splice inside the harness where several large red wires join together. The 4A fuse for this leg of the battery gauge (ammeter) wiring should hook to that splice. The wires going to the alternator can stay the same.

Here is a diagram borrowed from another post on this site (the splice is circled).




I agree. Using 4A fuses on the battery / alternator ends of the #1 & #12 wires will protect those wires in the event one of them is ever shorted to ground. The fuses will also protect the wires and the meter movement from trying to pass too much current should the "shunt" wire ever develop an open circuit due to a bad connection.




I believe they are called "bow" type terminals. In this case, I think a person could salvage the terminals off the brown (gen light) and dark blue (oil light) wires since those wires are no longer used with the gauge cluster.

And like Ewr101 said, Classic Industries does sell a kit that includes new terminals along with the plastic connector shell --> http://www.classicindustries.com/pro.../bw900216.html
Good stuff Ray, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I stated the voltage regulator at the firewall. What I meant was where it is mounted on the core support, not the firewall.

Take care,
Tom
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:52 PM   #10
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

You guys are amazing. I'm still a little confused just because wiring scares me, but you've made it just about as clear as possible. I guess I'll have to just dig in a try to figure it out.

My other new concern is the temp sending unit. I have vortec heads on my crate engine, so I guess I have 2 choices. Get the 1/2 sensor turned down to 3/8 or install it in the intake and plug the head hole. Also since I have idiot lights now, my current temp sensor has a different plug end than the gauges sending unit type plug end would originally have. What can I do about this ??
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:03 PM   #11
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20 View Post
My other new concern is the temp sending unit. I have vortec heads on my crate engine, so I guess I have 2 choices. Get the 1/2 sensor turned down to 3/8 or install it in the intake and plug the head hole.
Yes, either one of those options should work. I think I've seen a thread or two on this site where folks have turned down the sending units to fit newer heads. And some where they have drilled & tapped the newer heads to accept the 1/2" sending units.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20 View Post
Also since I have idiot lights now, my current temp sensor has a different plug end than the gauges sending unit type plug end would originally have. What can I do about this ??
Take a close look at your existing connector. Some of them have a little slot in the plastic on the side. If yours has the slot, you can simply turn it sideways and slide it onto the "nail head" type end that's typically found on the gauge type sending units.

If not, it is possible to extract the electrical terminal from the plastic connector housing (similar to what is done for re-pinning the cluster connector) and re-insert it into a housing that is slotted to fit the sending unit.

Here's a pic of the gauge style sending unit and connector (note the slot in the plastic connector housing). The metal terminal is a Packard/Delphi 56-series and will work with either a flat 1/4" blade or the "nail head" type sending units.



Oh, and I forgot to mention earlier that splice (where you need to connect the alternator side of the ammeter) is physically located on the driver side of the radiator support. It should be near the voltage regulator (or where the voltage regulator used to be if yours has been converted to internally regulated).
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:13 PM   #12
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

You're the best man!!!


Wish me luck!!!
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:27 AM   #13
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

hey guys or TBONE,

I have a few more questions before I pull the trigger on this purchase!

1) does the new full cluster have the same amount of LED lights as the idiot dash? just making sure I won't have to add any lights ect to illuminate all the spots on the new cluster

2) how does the tach wire up? and how to incorporate the tach filter?


Thanks,
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:36 PM   #14
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Guys I need help!

Did the cluster conversion now having starting issues. Read my post here :

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=705286

Also my truck died after I turned on the heater. Seemed like it was pulling too much power and died out. Maybe I'm wrong but that's what it seemed like.

My temp gauge pegs and is jumpy when I engage the starter. I'm stumped
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:32 PM   #15
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

I just completed this conversion, so I thought I'd add some comments about how I handled the two wires for the ammeter. Basically, I used the existing brown and dark blue wires from the gauge cluster to the firewall bulkhead connector, and then I added a white wire from there to the red wire junction inside the headlight harness, and a black wire to the 12V junction block by the battery, with inline fuseholders installed in each wire.

1) I moved the dark blue wire originally in the gauge cluster pin 1 (previously for the oil pressure switch) to gauge cluster pin 12. Don't confuse this with the dark blue wire for RH Signal Lamp. Then I removed this wire from its original location on the smaller half of the bulkhead connector to two slots above the fat red wire on the larger half of the bulkhead connector. If this were a factory original gauge harness, then this dark blue wire would be 20awg black, according to schematics in the service manual.

2) Instead of taping off the brown wire originally from pin 8 of the gauge cluster (Generator Lamp), I connected it to gauge cluster pin 1. I then cut it from the bulkhead connector where it was attached, but I left the brown/white wire that was also attached to the same terminal still attached. This brown/white wire goes to to the ignition switch and then continues to the fuse panel. To be clear, I left the brown/white wire intact in its original place in the bulkhead connector. I installed a new Packard 56 female terminal onto the end of the brown wire and inserted it into the empty slot just above the fat red wire in the bulkhead connector (I had to extend the wire a little). If this were a factory original gauge harness, then this brown wire would be 20awg black/white, according to a schematics in the service manual.

3) I installed a male Packard 56 terminal on the end of some white 18awg wire (should be black/white per the schematic) and inserted it into the outer bulkhead connector to mate with the brown wire from step 1 (just above the fat red wire). The bulkhead slots had sealant in them that I had to scrape out with a knife. I will seal in the new wires with RTV.

4) I installed a male Packard 56 terminal on the end of some black 18awg wire and inserted it into the outer bulkhead connector to mate with the dark blue wire from step 2 (two slots above the fat red wire).

5) I removed the headlight harness from the truck and unwrapped the black plastic from the harness. This exposed the junction crimp of several fat red wires down near the voltage regulator. I installed an inline fuseholder (Bussmann BK/HFA-R) to the white wire down near the junction, and then connected the other end of the fuseholder to the junction. I used a soldering iron to pre-solder one of the red wires near where it enters the junction. I then wrapped the white wire around this solder and added more solder to the white wire. It took a lot of heat and patience to get the solder to wick.

6) I ran the black wire all the way through the channel that runs above the radiator. I installed a second fuseholder on the end of the black wire over by the positive junction block near the battery. I installed a short length of black wire on the other side of the fuseholder and installed a ring terminal on the end of that. I reinstalled the harness wrap.

7) I placed 4A AGC fuses in the fuseholders.

I haven't started my truck yet, but I did turn on the headlights, and the ammeter needle moved over to the left, which tells me it's working.

It probably would have made more sense to swap the brown and blue wires in their positions on the gauge cluster and bulkhead connectors since I could have just left the dark blue wire in its original location in pin 1. A wire is a wire though, and the colors don't match the factory schematic anyway.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:33 PM   #16
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Here are a few more photos.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:35 PM   #17
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Here are two photos that show the needle moving to the left when the headlights are turned on.
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Old 08-27-2020, 11:32 PM   #18
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Nice job PJ. This will help a ton of people with this! About as clean as you can get and using the gen wire and Oil Pressure wire are super resourceful.
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Old 08-27-2020, 11:35 PM   #19
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Quote:
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Nice job PJ. This will help a ton of people with this! About as clean as you can get and using the gen wire and Oil Pressure wire are super resourceful.
Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2020, 04:00 PM   #20
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

One other difference between gauge & idiot light under-dash harnesses is that the dark green wire for the temperature sensor (gauge pin 6/idiot pin 5 of the gauge cluster connector) is routed through the ignition switch on the idiot light harness, but on a gauge harness the green wire goes straight to the firewall bulkhead. The connection to the ignition switch is for idiot light bulb functionality verification when starting the engine. If the ignition switch connection is left intact when converting to gauges, then the temperature needle will peg to the right when starting the engine. I'm not sure this is a problem, but it doesn't appear to be the stock behavior. Removing the terminal with the two dark green wires from the ignition switch followed by covering the terminal with electrical tape should eliminate pegging of the needle. The two dark green wires would need to be left connected to each other.
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Old 06-28-2021, 08:08 PM   #21
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

Great info! May have to attempt this.
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Old 02-19-2024, 10:33 AM   #22
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

So helpful Tbone, couldn't have done it without your help! My schematic is slightly different than yours but I put it in my logbook so I (or my grandkids) can refer to it in the future.
Mike
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Old 02-19-2024, 04:50 PM   #23
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Re: TIP converting non gauge (warning light clusters to gauge clusters.

This is a very good post on the subject so I have added it to my FAQS page .

Please check out my FAQS thread at the top of the electrical forums stickies threads.
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