What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10

Cable retainers are removed and the cable is free. Just need to pull the studs on the assembly through the firewall. The unit is essentially wedged between the firewall and dashboard. I removed three bolts on the LH side of the dash panel, which helps, but it's not easy. I can pull the dash panel more, but I'd sure hate to bend or break something.

If the rod for the release handle could be removed then great. But it's riveted on, I don't want to cut it, and I'd have to monkey rig it on to re-assemble.

In other terms, preference is to do it right without damaging stuff like the dash panel and a great dash pad (gulp!).

Edit: If the best way is to remove the dash pad or something else I'm in. It's all coming apart anyway, though hadn't figured to remove the dash panel at all. I was planning to remove the pad last, because I hear it's a beatch.

I may be better off pulling the e-brake near last. Though all that's left are the fuse box, ignition switch, wiper assembly, dash pad, gas tank, front/rear windows and some minor details...........Then I'm ready to build a cab cart - finally.

Thanks for any input.

[70STOVEBOLT]

No trick, just remove the fasteners and slide the assembly toward the passenger side until you gain enough clearance for the studs to come through the firewall.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

No trick, just remove the fasteners and slide the assembly toward the passenger side until you gain enough clearance for the studs to come through the firewall.

That was the side I was leaning to. Just popped a Heineken, maybe that will help. Any indication I'm damaging the threads...........Maybe one more beer.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That was the side I was leaning to. Just popped a Heineken, maybe that will help. Any indication I'm damaging the threads...........Maybe one more beer.

Beer didn't work. Too worried about stripping studs at the moment. Think I'll pull the cable through from the cab side first. At least I think it's pull from the cab side, the cable retainers at the assembly appear to be a permanent part of the cable, and they aren't going through that hole in the F/W.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Speak of dash pad it's pulled. No mystery, but those speed nuts for the studs. Discovered unless you're lucky, constant pressure between the nut and dash pad is the ticket. Otherwise you're just stripping the parts. That and GM forgot one. I thought the pad looked a little off.

[FirstOwner69]

You're losing me here and, I'm, therefore, a bit confused. Is removing the cable from the assembly inside the cab one of the things you are trying to do? If so, are you saying it appears riveted to the assembly? That is not the case. If I understand, what you are seeing is a round headed pin. The other end of the pin toward the kick panel has a clip on it to retain the cable. Once the pin is removed the cable is easily removed from the cab by pulling it through the firewall from the engine side. There is a rectangular grommet in the firewall you will also need to remove. Chances are it will have a slit in it allowing it to be separated from the cable. Below are the only pictures I have that may help. The first shows the pin in place (top of pic, circled). The second shows the firewall grommet (partially hidden by harness, circled). The third shows the end of the cable with the pin removed. It's a bit of a pain to get the clip off.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

You're losing me here and, I'm, therefore, a bit confused. Is removing the cable from the assembly inside the cab one of the things you are trying to do? If so, are you saying it appears riveted to the assembly? That is not the case. If I understand, what you are seeing is a round headed pin. The other end of the pin toward the kick panel has a clip on it to retain the cable. Once the pin is removed the cable is easily removed from the cab by pulling it through the firewall from the engine side. There is a rectangular grommet in the firewall you will also need to remove. Chances are it will have a slit in it allowing it to be separated from the cable. Below are the only pictures I have that may help. The first shows the pin in place (top of pic, circled). The second shows the firewall grommet (partially hidden by harness, circled). The third shows the end of the cable with the pin removed. It's a bit of a pain to get the clip off.

I'm pulling the entire E-brake Jim. I started with the e-brake assembly, it's a bit jammed so I thought to remove the cable first, which may provide more clearance.

As for the cable, I've pulled the grommet no problem. I'm not seeing the clip you're referring to. Do you mean the cotter and clevis pin? Those are removed, but I doubt I can get "retainer two" through the firewall. There's a "ball clamp" on the end of the cable to what I'm calling retainer one. Behind that is "retainer two". Here's some more pics, for what it's worth.


Edit: Never mind the remove ball clamp business. Probably incorrect.

[GR8-68]

You do not want to remove the ball or you will have to buy a new cable, it is tricky sometimes but it will go through the firewall. Do you have the other end underneath the truck disconnected ? If not it will make it much easier to worm it out from under the hood.

[B. W.]

Remove retainer #2 by spreading slightly with a screw driver. Slide it to the inner cable portion & slip off, then cable can be removed through the firewall.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

You do not want to remove the ball or you will have to buy a new cable, it is tricky sometimes but it will go through the firewall. Do you have the other end underneath the truck disconnected ? If not it will make it much easier to worm it out from under the hood.

The rectangular hole in the firewall is 1.3" at it's widest point diagonally. The cable retainer ("Retainer #2") is 1" x 2". However, you can't flip it over because it's clamped onto the cable. So unless I'm missing something, I'm left trying to get a 2" part through a 1.3" hole...........On a side note, I found the hole in the F/W is bent toward the engine compartment along the LH (truck side) edge. I doubt that's intended, but I hadn't noticed it with the grommet in place.

But yep, it connects at the protrusion in the frame approx. 5" in front of the front cab mount. Looks to be just a nut, I'll see in a little bit.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Remove retainer #2 by spreading slightly with a screw driver. Slide it to the inner cable portion & slip off, then cable can be removed through the firewall.

Took a screw driver to it last night, but rather gently. I think I'll see about pulling it through the cab first. Otherwise I'll do that thank you. Plan B so to speak, by now probably plan C.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Remove retainer #2 by spreading slightly with a screw driver. Slide it to the inner cable portion & slip off, then cable can be removed through the firewall.

Do this! You only need to spread it enough (the diameter of the cable) so the cable itself will fit through the slot you have created. As stated before do not try to remove the ball. Everything remaining will easily fit through the hole.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Do this! You only need to spread it enough (the diameter of the cable) so the cable itself will fit through the slot you have created. As stated before do not try to remove the ball. Everything remaining will easily fit through the hole.

BINGO, you guys were right. I tried to remove it from the frame as stated above, to pull it from inside the cab. I have no idea what's going on there, and I'll save it for when the body is off. It's not as simple as one nut (of course not), and I managed to mutilate the "grommet" that holds it in place in the process. I should have payed more attention to what you guys were saying. Removing the cable retainer on the frame near the top front shock seemed to help, gave me some play. Thanks for everyone's help.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

And I taped off the studs on the assembly, pulled the unit toward the passenger side and down under the dash. Done. That gives me plenty to do for clean-up and notes. Thanks for everything.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

For anyone reading this thread and to avoid my confusion (ha!), remove that clamp retainer off the cable and pull the cable through from the engine compartment, just as stated above (many times). Pulling the cable may provide additional clearance to remove the E-brake assembly, but I doubt it's necessary. To pull the assembly, remove the three bolts for the dash panel, driver's side. Pull the panel back, and do as stated above and you're done. I removed the dash pad to avoid damaging it while pulling the panel. That probably wasn't necessary either, but at some point I figure to remove it anyway. Amazing how easy this stuff is.........considering how hard this stuff is

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

BINGO, you guys were right. I tried to remove it from the frame as stated above, to pull it from inside the cab. I have no idea what's going on there, and I'll save it for when the body is off. It's not as simple as one nut (of course not), and I managed to mutilate the "grommet" that holds it in place in the process. I should have payed more attention to what you guys were saying. Removing the cable retainer on the frame near the top front shock seemed to help, gave me some play. Thanks for everyone's help.

Glad to hear you got it out. For future reference, here's the grommet you'll need. Just make a slit from the side to the hole with a razor blade or Exacto knife and slip it over the cable.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/j1140.html

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

For anyone reading this thread and to avoid my confusion (ha!), remove that clamp retainer off the cable and pull the cable through from the engine compartment, just as stated above (many times). Pulling the cable may provide additional clearance to remove the E-brake assembly, but I doubt it's necessary. To pull the assembly, remove the three bolts for the dash panel, driver's side. Pull the panel back, and do as stated above and you're done. I removed the dash pad to avoid damaging it while pulling the panel. That probably wasn't necessary either, but at some point I figure to remove it anyway. Amazing how easy this stuff is.........considering how hard this stuff is

While you have it out do the E brake mod to the pedal.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7608946

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Glad to hear you got it out. For future reference, here's the grommet you'll need. Just make a slit from the side to the hole with a razor blade or Exacto knife and slip it over the cable.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/j1140.html

Noted. Thank you Jim. It may have come with the kit I got from Wes. Holy cow parts are everywhere, and I still need to dive into the undercarriage. Trade you "garages".

I believe the factory grommet took a sealing compound. Page 630 of the assembly manual. Venture a guess what that is?

For the life of me, I can't figure out why the LH (truck side) edge of the hole in the firewall is bent forward the engine. It's not that pretty either, so I figure it's not factory intended. I didn't notice till I pulled the grommet. I suppose the most likely scenario is the cut. It's not that clean either, but works.

Looking forward to revisiting the e-brake cable at the frame (not really). Can't speak for the RH side yet, but the LH side had me stumped today.

[forcd02]

Good timing on this post-I tried yesterday pulling my emg brake, same deal didn't want to come out-I rem the 3 bolts also, but didn't want to pull to hard, i'll mess with it today, obs it will come out now.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by forcd02

Good timing on this post-I tried yesterday pulling my emg brake, same deal didn't want to come out-I rem the 3 bolts also, but didn't want to pull to hard, i'll mess with it today, obs it will come out now.

Mask tape the studs. It protects them and it pulls smooth.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Cleaned up the e-brake assm. Appears these are rust prone, though mine was surface rust. Any water and rust again. I figure these were due a top coat. I'll paint it. Perhaps these had a finish from factory less the black arm & pedal? I soaked it in WD-40, packed it away, and will save it for a day.

The pedal pad is super. One minor flaw in the bottom RH corner. It's the only pad I havn't been able to locate new, but no shame reusing this one. On topic, this pad is part # 3948727. The book shows that for a 69-70 truck. It was the only checkered pad of the three. Perhaps I replaced it at some point, or GM was using up their inventory.

And lastly here's a pic. of a Peruvian Inca Orchid. Like a wolf or coyote these are not hybrid. Other than the head, end of the tale and sometimes their feet they're hairless. Supposedly there's 1000 on Earth and we're fostering two. We did have three. As you can see they're VERY cute. She knows where the dog food is stored. However, when they play they're more like Tasmanian Devils than domestic dogs.