88-98 SWB's & Towing

[SCOTI]

Any of you tug a car trailer around w/your 88-98 swb? Any issues? Upgrades suggested?

[Palf70Step]

I have towed vehicles, with trailers and just with towbar with no issues. I recommend trailers brakes. You can tow without issues with a 1/2 ton model, but you are much better off having a 3/4 or 1 ton. If I was doing a lot of hauling/towing of heavy stufff like cars, I would have the bigger models. (in any year span not just 88-98)

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I have towed vehicles, with trailers and just with towbar with no issues. I recommend trailers brakes. You can tow without issues with a 1/2 ton model, but you are much better off having a 3/4 or 1 ton. If I was doing a lot of hauling/towing of heavy stufff like cars, I would have the bigger models. (in any year span not just 88-98)

I tugged my 18' car hauler around w/my 68 & 74 but they were set-up for the job (air ride to compensate). I figured the 90 would require similar effort but thought I would ask to see if those that have been there had any diff input.

I'm looking to scale down my stable since it's difficult to find a home I can afford w/enough room to put all my current vehicles. I've got people interested in my 90 & my dually but finding a replacement (that does both jobs) has proven a challenge. I started thinking maybe I'll just tweak the 90 to tow vs paying a wad of cash for something else (1/2 ton, 3/4 ton etc...).

[abig84]

my daily driver is a 1990 c1500 with a 305 engine and 3.43 gears. whats funny is before i owned this i bought a 2007 f150 band new with the 4.6 and they pull pretty much about the same, though the ford stopped a little bit better without the trailer brakes on

but yeah trailer brakes are your friend, and i ended up getting the little air bag helpers for the rear, really helps especially if you hit like a dip on the highway it used to slam my bumper to the ground almost when pulling my s10.



might be a little bit slow getting up to 60 but it does the job. thought about using the 1ton to tow with (Which would probably make more sense) but i just find the 90 to be way more reliable

[Keith Seymore]

No problem.

My 1/2 ton 2wd shortboxes were adequate until I tried pulling my 24' Haulmark enclosed. At that point I stepped up to a bigger truck.

K

[abig84]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

No problem.

My 1/2 ton 2wd shortboxes were adequate until I tried pulling my 24' Haulmark enclosed. At that point I stepped up to a bigger truck.

K

yeah i been doing a lot of towing with the truck above and i really wouldnt tow anything bigger then just your starndard car/truck on a car trailer.

heaviest thing i ever attempted was my 52 1ton or a 80s 4x4 suburban, both were very short distances and never over 35. gets kinda sketchy

all my stuff is maintained but old, even the car trailer i bought used back in 2001, one of these days that thing is going to split in half

[mountie]

My '88 is a 5.7, 3/4 ton, "plus".. It is the SLE Sierra "Camper Package"...

It hauls just fine.... It's all about the transmission!!! If you tow, GET A GOOD TRANNY COOLER!!

Going up hill, let the transmission and an "easy" rpm pull the trailer.. Do not force it uphill.

Fresh brakes. Get trailer brakes if it is a tad heavy.

I had to haul a 24' Haulmark enclosed trailer.... no problem.

Get a transmission cooler ( a Searab is a good cooler )

[Marv D]

I built my 94 4x4 standard cab SWB 1500 to tow a 9800 pound enclosed race trailer. It is where the saying came from " the tail wagging the dog" 9800 pounds (loaded) being pulled by a 6100 pound short wheel base is total STUPIDITY on my part. I have the power, built a Vortec head 383 hydraulic roller motor for it, and , NV4500 trans with the right gear, 4wheel electric trailer brakes, Air Ride overloads in the rear to carry the tongue weight,,

STILL the dumbest thing I ever done. Total white knuckle towing everywhere I went. Now I borrow my sons 1ton crew long bed 454 4l80E dually,,, and it's not totally EXHAUSTING to tow a couple hundred miles.

So my opinion of towing a trailer over 5000 lbs with a 1500SWB, can it be done,, SURE, is it fun (or smart) ,, HELL NO!!!

[rickpilgrim]

If I was in your situation from a towing perspective I would keep the dually and sell all the others as the dually can tow both small and over 5000lb trailers.
We used our 90 K1500 ex cab long box for towing our 16' mowing trailer and it was less than ideal to say the least. We had overload leaf springs on the back and a class 5 receiver for a 1 ton and a prodigy brake controller but-
2 Toro Groundsmaster 345 mowers plus a 21" were around 4600lb plus 1650ish lbs for the trailer. First was the right rear axle shaft broke. After the tow bill and a junkyard venture it was going up an on ramp and BANG there goes the T-case. Adapted a 3/4 ton case and then it was $2236.21 for a stout rebuild of the 4L60.
We had started to run the WD hitch before this and after a really scary almost accident had unhooked the rear axle trailer brakes to help prevent trailer slide under heavy braking which helped but then we ripped the frame where the receiver bolts on.
At that point we just got the dually so I'm glad no one got hurt or killed doing that as we drove very conservative and carefull but you could always tell by driving that setup that you were at the edge of trouble.
Your truck is smaller than our ex cab was so I'd be very, very, very cautious.

[SCOTI]

While the dually does the job just fine, it doesn't work for the daily grind....

It's a PITA to navigate in tight areas.
It loves gas.
It needs OD to keep up w/traffic because 3k rpm get's annoying quickly.

My main reasoning though is to cash in on it's market value. I'm selling 2 trucks to minimize my parking footprint (one truck that can handle both jobs).

The point is moot now. I picked up the new DD Saturday. The sale of my 90swb basically paid for the 99 so if the dually hits the block it's all toward a house...

99 3/4 ton short bed
Fresh 5.7 w/a 4l80e

[rickpilgrim]

Nice truck for what your goals are! I hope it meets both your DD and pulling needs

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rickpilgrim

Nice truck for what your goals are! I hope it meets both your DD and pulling needs

I feel it should. The motor only has a few hundred miles on it (the 4.3 in my 90 has ~250k). It's better optioned vs my 90 since it has power windows/locks, carpet, & headliner so that's a plus. Relatively dent free. Typical peeling paint which I prefer over a cheap/quick re-sale type re-paint. Interior is a mess but w/some elbow grease & time I'll have it as nice as my duallys interior. Plus the sale of the 90 almost paid for it so minimal investment for increased abilities.

It will definitely get the Scot-Rod treatment.....

[lolife99]

I'm assuming the '99 crew cab is going to get some type of lowering treatment?

Edit: just saw the Scot-Rod statement,...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I'm assuming the '99 crew cab is going to get some type of lowering treatment?

Edit: just saw the Scot-Rod statement,...

You know you got it bad when the 1st statement from everyone in your circle is "How much are you going to drop this one?"

[lolife99]

Ha.
2 choices.
4/6 or 5/7 (with helper bags).
And maybe some factory GM 20's to keep it "oem looking"

[Palf70Step]

Very good choice for DD & tow vehicle.

Yep, waiting to see how low you can go.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by lolife99

ha.
1 choice.
5/7 (with helper bags)

fify

[rickpilgrim]

Looks a lot like my 1998 K3500 CCLB which also had/has the paint peel problem.
Mine was 5.7 vortec,4l80E 4.10 geared 105 mph top speed and 14mpg on mine.
I added the SummitRacing drilled/slotted front rotors and ceramic pads to both the 93 and 98 trucks and they are great. No more warped rotors or spongy brakes that I'd get from daily towing.
The progressive rate overload springs are a nice addition on these trucks. They have no affect using it for DD but load the bed or put the trailer on and they get progressively stiffer. No change in ride height either.
I run the LP35 series, and no air bags or lines to rupture or remember to air up or down and less than $300 for a set and about 3hrs install in our shop.
I should think this will all work out for you and best of luck to you on the house thing

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rickpilgrim

Looks a lot like my 1998 K3500 CCLB which also had/has the paint peel problem.
Mine was 5.7 vortec,4l80E 4.10 geared 105 mph top speed and 14mpg on mine.
I added the SummitRacing drilled/slotted front rotors and ceramic pads to both the 93 and 98 trucks and they are great. No more warped rotors or spongy brakes that I'd get from daily towing.
The progressive rate overload springs are a nice addition on these trucks. They have no affect using it for DD but load the bed or put the trailer on and they get progressively stiffer. No change in ride height either.
I run the LP35 series, and no air bags or lines to rupture or remember to air up or down and less than $300 for a set and about 3hrs install in our shop.
I should think this will all work out for you and best of luck to you on the house thing

Appreciate the comments.

I took it for a brief drive tonight on the highway (when I did the test drive, I just went around the guys neighborhood area). It ran decent enough. Nice to scoot along w/70mph traffic & see just a tick over 2k rpm on the tach. We're going to sort through a few mechanical items immediately (timing; ignition circuit; leaking exhaust donut gasket) then:

• charge the a/c
• repair the drivers door hinge pins
• investigate electrical gremlins w/the door lock button
• new windshield
  

I'll start making a list of items tomorrow for all the replacement parts needed to bring this thing closer to my standards.

[SCOTI]

Started looking @ wheel/tire options & it seems my choices are minimal (I don't care for blingy/PC blk/machined wheels). Seems the lower cost 8-lug wheels have back spacing that's not 'lowered truck' friendly.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Started looking @ wheel/tire options & it seems my choices are minimal (I don't care for blingy/PC blk/machined wheels). Seems the lower cost 8-lug wheels have back spacing that's not 'lowered truck' friendly.

I always liked these oem 20's.
But they're the wrong bolt pattern.
(2011-2017)
Wonder if there's room behind them for an adapter?

[SCOTI]

Doubt an adapter could work. Track width is already a possible issue. Adapters would add to that (unless there's material that can be removed from the hub flange).