Need Help Having Problems

[C.20]

Hows everyone doing i have a problem i have long tube headers on my truck and im going through starters left and right and i dont no what to do i dont no if i should wrap my headers or get one of those high torque starters if someone had the same problem let me no what u did

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by C.20

Hows everyone doing i have a problem i have long tube headers on my truck and im going through starters left and right and i dont no what to do i dont no if i should wrap my headers or get one of those high torque starters if someone had the same problem let me no what u did

A little more info would be good. Exactly what problem are you having with the starters. Also what engine do you have and is it stock? If you are having problems with the starter turning the engine over when it its hot that doesn't necessarily mean that the starter is bad....

LockDoc

[tommy3horse]

Hello C.20. I had the same problem, I was buying Auto-Zone crap and couldnt get a good starter to save my life. I bought a new unit at O'rielly's and have not had an issue since.
I also have a 350 and long tube headers...

Tom

[C.20]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

A little more info would be good. Exactly what problem are you having with the starters. Also what engine do you have and is it stock? If you are having problems with the starter turning the engine over when it its hot that doesn't necessarily mean that the starter is bad....

LockDoc

Its a 350 with a cam with longtubes and a exhaust but this is the 5th starter i went through i dont know if its heat or if its just ****ty advance starters keep burning out

[C.20]

Originally Posted by tommy3horse

Hello C.20. I had the same problem, I was buying Auto-Zone crap and couldnt get a good starter to save my life. I bought a new unit at O'rielly's and have not had an issue since.
I also have a 350 and long tube headers...

Tom

yeh idk what to do i always buy brand new ones never used and they last 2 weeks and then they poop out on me and its bad it makes terrible noises trying to start it

[davepl]

How do you "go through them"? If they just no-crank when hot, that's not the starter's fault.

But yeah, I'd start putting some heat shielding in there. Wrap the tubes and get a starter shield. Use a smaller gear reduction starter if you can afford it, they sit a lot further away from the headers and they're better anyway.

There's not a lot of difference between a new and an old starter - just brushes and a couple of bearings. Maybe they use low melting point solder in the rebuilds!

[C.20]

Originally Posted by davepl

How do you "go through them"? If they just no-crank when hot, that's not the starter's fault.

But yeah, I'd start putting some heat shielding in there. Wrap the tubes and get a starter shield. Use a smaller gear reduction starter if you can afford it, they sit a lot further away from the headers and they're better anyway.

There's not a lot of difference between a new and an old starter - just brushes and a couple of bearings. Maybe they use low melting point solder in the rebuilds!

when i turn the truck on it bangs really loud against the fly wheel likes it no coming out all the way but whenever i put a new one on it never does it after 2 weeks it will start doing it again

[geezer#99]

Are you using the correct knurled shoulder starter bolts?
You might also need a starter brace.
Pic here.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=492532

[C.20]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Are you using the correct knurled shoulder starter bolts?
You might also need a starter brace.
Pic here.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=492532

yeh im using the right bolts not sure about that bracket though

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by C.20

yeh im using the right bolts not sure about that bracket though

Summit has them.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...4353/overview/

I've made my own with angle iron.
It'll keep the starter in place.

[snipescastle2]

you may have to shim the starter also. Make sure the teeth on your flex plate/flywheel aren't chewed up also, that will damage the bendix on the starter.
Ben

[C.20]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

you may have to shim the starter also. Make sure the teeth on your flex plate/flywheel aren't chewed up also, that will damage the bendix on the starter.
Ben

yeh im going to do that just got a new starter for the time being

[NoNeck]

I agree with the other guys. The one thing that I have learned is that if you are running the long tube headers on a truck you need a QUALITY starter and solenoid. The rebuilt aftermarket starters just don't have quality internals to last in high temperature environments. More importantly, off brand starter solenoids sold today are much more sensitive to heat. They work OK with factory exhaust manifolds, but not with headers.

I have learned that you get what you pay for. There is no such thing as high quality and cheap.

After the 3rd Auto Zone starter left me stranded years ago, I purchased a new AC Delco "High Torque" starter from a local distributor. FYI, you can tell a High Torque starter by the extra long rod at the solenoid attachment. The starter included a new solenoid.

I also made a homemade heat shield for the solenoid from an old aluminum car show plaque. Of course you can buy one from Summit or Jegs, but I didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.

Just my 2¢...

POP

[C.20]

Originally Posted by davepl

How do you "go through them"? If they just no-crank when hot, that's not the starter's fault.

But yeah, I'd start putting some heat shielding in there. Wrap the tubes and get a starter shield. Use a smaller gear reduction starter if you can afford it, they sit a lot further away from the headers and they're better anyway.

There's not a lot of difference between a new and an old starter - just brushes and a couple of bearings. Maybe they use low melting point solder in the rebuilds!

they last 2 weeks and then it doesn't engage anymore my headers are wrapped and it still going out

[C.20]

Originally Posted by NoNeck

I agree with the other guys. The one thing that I have learned is that if you are running the long tube headers on a truck you need a QUALITY starter and solenoid. The rebuilt aftermarket starters just don't have quality internals to last in high temperature environments. More importantly, off brand starter solenoids sold today are much more sensitive to heat. They work OK with factory exhaust manifolds, but not with headers.

I have learned that you get what you pay for. There is no such thing as high quality and cheap.

After the 3rd Auto Zone starter left me stranded years ago, I purchased a new AC Delco "High Torque" starter from a local distributor. FYI, you can tell a High Torque starter by the extra long rod at the solenoid attachment. The starter included a new solenoid.

I also made a homemade heat shield for the solenoid from an old aluminum car show plaque. Of course you can buy one from Summit or Jegs, but I didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.

Just my 2¢...

POP

thats the next thing i might do i keep buying advance starters brand new they last awhile then they die and are chewing my flex plate apart i wrapped my headers and everything im goona try that ac delco starter i think and make a shield like you did

[GASoline71]

I don't think the headers have anything to do with your problem. If header heat was your problem you would get a no-start "heat soak" issue. Meaning, there would be no juice getting through the hot solenoid.

If the starter is not engaging the flexplate/flywheel teeth, it's either not shimmed correctly, installed incorrectly, or you might have a bad flexplate/flywheel.

Gary

[C.20]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I don't think the headers have anything to do with your problem. If header heat was your problem you would get a no-start "heat soak" issue. Meaning, there would be no juice getting through the hot solenoid.

If the starter is not engaging the flexplate/flywheel teeth, it's either not shimmed correctly, installed incorrectly, or you might have a bad flexplate/flywheel.

Gary

the flex plate is getting destroyed because the starters are failing and not coming out i got to put a new flex plate in anyway but for the time being i put a new starter in and it works for a week or 2 and then all of a sudden it stops working i dont know if the starters are being shorted out and becoming weaker idk i cant figure it out

[sloth454]

Hey this problem really sounds like clearance issues. possible not shimmed out at all or not enough shims. After the truck starts does it sound like the starter is dragging? When it goes bad your saying its hitting the flex plate. To me that's not a starter problem its clearances. But heat wrapping the headers with a heat shield on the starter will always make them last longer. One thing you can try is when it fails. Try just pulling the starter out and reinstalling it. Its could be moving around and not lining up after driving.

[twich3136]

so it still cranks but its loud and noisy? I had a 74 with what sounds like a similar issue. went through a few starters before I decided to change the flexplate, which I discovered was warped, and all my problems went away. the new starters would work great for a week or two then get loud and progressively worse until just just made grinding noises.

[C.20]

Originally Posted by sloth454

Hey this problem really sounds like clearance issues. possible not shimmed out at all or not enough shims. After the truck starts does it sound like the starter is dragging? When it goes bad your saying its hitting the flex plate. To me that's not a starter problem its clearances. But heat wrapping the headers with a heat shield on the starter will always make them last longer. One thing you can try is when it fails. Try just pulling the starter out and reinstalling it. Its could be moving around and not lining up after driving.

i shim it a couple of times now i had 5 in at one point and it just weakens and dies and bangs but what i think i need to do is run the motor i might be putting in wrong starters but i dont no how that would kill a starter in 2 weeks if i put it in and have no problems all of a sudden this started happeing

[C.20]

Originally Posted by twich3136

so it still cranks but its loud and noisy? I had a 74 with what sounds like a similar issue. went through a few starters before I decided to change the flexplate, which I discovered was warped, and all my problems went away. the new starters would work great for a week or two then get loud and progressively worse until just just made grinding noises.

yeh i heard it is very easy to change the flex plate just gotta move the torque converter back and use a wrench and unloose the bolts holding the flex plate but its not cracker or anything i just need it to last a little while longer and im thinking im puting the wrong starters in i need to find the the numbers on the block and run them and see what starter i need to run

[twich3136]

just put your back into it

[C.20]

Originally Posted by twich3136

just put your back into it

LOL its irritating me that i cant figure out whats wrong with it

[snipescastle2]

I doubt very much you can change the flex plate without dropping the transmission. There just isn't enough room to get past the crank flange and the hub of the converter. One thing, is your current flex plate worn in four evenly spaced areas of the ring gear? 90 degree V8's will wear like that if you have a starter that isn't engaging correctly....also, are you using the small brace that supports the end of the starter motor?
this will add to your problems as well.
Ben

[C.20]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I doubt very much you can change the flex plate without dropping the transmission. There just isn't enough room to get past the crank flange and the hub of the converter. One thing, is your current flex plate worn in four evenly spaced areas of the ring gear? 90 degree V8's will wear like that if you have a starter that isn't engaging correctly....also, are you using the small brace that supports the end of the starter motor?
this will add to your problems as well.
Ben

when i bought the truck it didnt have a brace on it and i think the starter is falling and hitting thats what i think and i need this brace to hold it up