1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

Working on small stuff while I finalize what all needs to be done.

Replaced both door strikers... huge difference! Next up is the drivers door top hinge.

My body shop buddy came over on Friday and said he will do the job at his home shop in one afternoon. Get it done and in primer. When the weather warms up, the 20 will get a base coat clear coat.

I think I have the wife's Exploder sold... Yeah, I know, but she bought it before we ever met.

If that deal goes down, the motor swap will take place post-haste and then most likely off to storage for the two Internationals. I say most likely, because a guy in Colorado contacted me about buying both Internationals and all the spare parts... I have ridden in that rodeo before.

I had to work out a deal with my daughter, that if I sold "her truck" I had to negotiate a "first right of refusal" if Mr. Colorado ever sold the truck... PLUS I have buy a '56 Bel Air before she reaches her senior year in high school, ... She then proceeded to light up my e-mail with potential candidates... What have I created?

[patrickth]

First of all Howdy. I just went through the decision to go C-10 (almost all overpriced locally compared to work needed) or buying a really nice c-20 for reasonable Money. Found a local unit with 40K miles that needs a new tailgate, same door problem and a bit of rust. $500. As soon as I could figure out best way to mount a good hitch, drove it to Lake Havasu with a very full trailer with only needing a thermostat and had to bypass heater core. Your build makes perfect sense to me. With gas prices so low at the moment, just might keep it a c-20 Subscribed.

[Super_Dave]

patrickth,

Yeah, "quality" C10's are getting real expensive and they need a lot more work than the 20 I got. I can put a set of ECE 2.5" drop spindles and up to a 2" drop spring and lower the front 4.5" for about $450. I have a $100 12B rear, coupled with a new brake job and flip kit and can drop the rear 6" or so for about $300.

Then it's all cosmetic work, which will not be bad at all because of the overall condition of the 20. I have a slight bow in the tailgate, but have access to several at the U-Pull It. All the sheet metal is the same between the 10 and 20 (as far as I have determined), so for all intents and purposes, I will have a 10 with a little 20 running gear up front.

[patrickth]

I am due for a road trip. Going to look for a gold front passenger fender to put on while I fix my original. I bought a welder, but don't know how to use it yet. Need to practice filling some rust break throughs.

Forum won't let me post pics.

[Super_Dave]

What happens when you try to post a photo?

[patrickth]

It says security cert error, contact admin. Going to look deeper into it in a bit. Got to drill a hole in trailer tongue to readjust a chain.

[Super_Dave]

I believe your computer is looking at the websites Security Certificate or the website might be looking for yours (which would be really odd), which may have expired, and so it's limiting access. Might just be some settings you need to adjust on your end, like lowering your Security Setting from High to Medium?... just a guess.

[slotard]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

patrickth,

Yeah, "quality" C10's are getting real expensive and they need a lot more work than the 20 I got. I can put a set of ECE 2.5" drop spindles and up to a 2" drop spring and lower the front 4.5" for about $450. I have a $100 12B rear, coupled with a new brake job and flip kit and can drop the rear 6" or so for about $300.

Then it's all cosmetic work, which will not be bad at all because of the overall condition of the 20. I have a slight bow in the tailgate, but have access to several at the U-Pull It. All the sheet metal is the same between the 10 and 20 (as far as I have determined), so for all intents and purposes, I will have a 10 with a little 20 running gear up front.

Yep, and the 20 has a slightly thicker frame so it's less likely to have cracking problems at the steering box (if treated the same).

[slotard]

Originally Posted by patrickth

It says security cert error, contact admin. Going to look deeper into it in a bit. Got to drill a hole in trailer tongue to readjust a chain.

I would suggest using imgur.com to host images, once you've uploaded them you can copy the BBCode link they have, paste it here, and have images show up.

[patrickth]

Trying again. Never had a problem before. Fender needed, and color of truck with option code.

[Super_Dave]

Yea for me... the 1998 Exploder has found a new home! An Oregon Duck fan bought it and my wife has all her Oregon State Beavers decals plastered on the back window.

I'm sure she will appreciate the irony... although her take will be that the Duck deserved all the problems he just bought. He is a mechanic for a Ford Dealer and had no issues with all the problems.

Now to focus on the engine swap... and getting the Internationals sold or into storage.

[rgunlock]

Nice truck, and congrats on unloading the exploder. If you haven't already dealt with the door hinge, I just rebuilt all 4 of my hinges with parts from LMC. Replacing the S-spring would only take a few minutes, and replacing the hinge pins and bushings is also pretty easy and for a couple dollars in parts you might want to do it while the door is off anyway. Of course getting the door off, hinge off, back on, and realign door will likely take just a bit longer

[Super_Dave]

Okay, time for a brief update. (Photos to follow)

Last weekend, I installed new door rubbers. It's about 90% quieter, and considerably more air-tight as we do have to close the doors harder. We used the nice press-fit rubber seals. If the window is cracked a bot, the doors do close easier.

My brother, middle son and I spent the last two days swapping the nice built 350 into the C20 and setting the original motor aside for future rebuild and use in another vehicle for my daughter.

We have a minor carburetor issue to resolve as it runs out great bit has a rough idle (nearly wants to stall out) while idling under load... neutral, accelerating, or cruising is great. It's a new Edelbrock and we are only getting idle adjustment from one of the adjustment screws... so that's a contributor as well.

Another issue is the Temp gauge (L-H) wants to peg all the time. The motor runs cool, so it's not really overheating. I have to look into the sending unit that we initially had installed in the 305 when it was in the International. It worked flawlessly there. So something is different with the C20 with regards to what the gauge is expecting to receive and what it is actually getting.

We have a full set of KYB shocks and rubber cab/radiator core support mounts to install, as well as some miscellaneous rubber parts like hood stops, etc.

We have new hinge pins for all four hinges and the S-spring stops to install.

... wife is calling for dinner... gotta go!

[patrickth]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Okay, time for a brief update. (Photos to follow)

Last weekend, I installed new door rubbers. It's about 90% quieter, and considerably more air-tight as we do have to close the doors harder. We used the nice press-fit rubber seals. If the window is cracked a bot, the doors do close easier.


... wife is calling for dinner... gotta go!

I don't exactly need new rubber, can make do, but it is on my list after I get new driver window register installed. Was it difficult to install.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by patrickth

I don't exactly need new rubber, can make do, but it is on my list after I get new driver window register installed. Was it difficult to install.

Patrick,

No, it took longer to clean off some of the adhesive from the PO's repairs. I started in the middle of the rocker panel area, as that's where I wanted the seam to end up (under the sill trim). Then just "walk" it around the opening.

Make sure you really get it seated well in the upper corners, as the tendency is to just push it until it looks smooth, but, if you look on the inside of the cab corner, you will see if it's not evenly spaced, as the reveal will be wider around the inside corner because you didn't push it on far enough. I have to go back and correct the corner of the first door we did, as it's not as good as the second door and looks... well, bad! If you don't correct that, you will eventually have that part of the door seal pull away over time... we have all seen that in trucks, and it's not pretty. I will post some photos of what I am talking about.

When you install, you can sort of feel it snap or seat itself against the flange. If the hard part of the door seal, where the metal is embedded, looks "lumpy" then you have high spots that need to be pressed on until it's all flat.

The only other tight area on my '74, was where the door seal went down past the dash. A real tight fit. I had to use the rubber handle on my hammer to jab it in place so I wouldn't distort the seal.

Once you get back to the rocker panel where you started, just trim it to fit snug against the other end of the seal and you are good to go. My door seals had about 6" left over, so keep it in case you need to repair any sections at a later date.

[Super_Dave]

Patrick,

Here are some photos of the upper cab corners and the dash area I was talking about.

The first corner is relatively even...

It might not be easy to see, but the second corner doesn't flow around in an even curve... and needs to be repositioned and pushed up in the corner a bit more...

The last photo is where it gets tight around the dash...

[Super_Dave]

Well... here is the initial start on the build.

BABA YAGA GETS A NEW HEART!

I couldn't line up any help from local members over the past couple of months, but I was able to sell the 98 Exploder and two 74 Internationals to get enough cash to make the swap and do some minor mechanical repairs. The focus will be on mechanical first then body, paint and interior.

My brother has his one man shop in McMinnville and it keeps him really busy. I cajoled him into helping me as my L5 vertebra is dislocated and pinching nerves, and sometimes pressing my spinal cord, due to a condition called Spondylolisthesis and life is not too comfortable at the moment.

I will just toss up the photos for the time being, as I haven't figured out how to list them in the post and put specific comments on each one...

Two days worth of removing a built 350 from the defunct International build (live and learn...), removing the old OEM 350 from the '74 C20 and setting it aside for future use, then installing the new 350 in the C20.

My brother did the lion's share of the heavy lifting, You can see my brother Nate is three of the photos. He is a master of making things work, adapting on the fly and just constantly troubleshooting. It's amazing to watch him work. I am fortunate he had time to fit me into his schedule and was willing to work on his Saturday; a typical day off.

Looking forward to the 500 mile break-in period on the motor then getting some of the minor mechanical work done... New KYB shocks, full hinge repairs on both doors, cab/radiator support bushing replacements, etc.

[Super_Dave]

More eye candy...

[patrickth]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Patrick,

No, it took longer to clean off some of the adhesive from the PO's repairs. I started in the middle of the rocker panel area, as that's where I wanted the seam to end up (under the sill trim). Then just "walk" it around the opening.

.

Do you recall which kit and supplier? Thanks for pics and response.

[Super_Dave]

I got them from Summit Racing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mmp-is-lm121

[Super_Dave]

BABA YAGA IS NOT HAPPY!

A ranting comment on buying the Hedman Headers from Summit Racing.

I ordered Hedman Headders - # 68396 - their "Block Hugger" Street Rod, Ceramic Coated package, and installed them on the motor last Summer. They have less that 100 miles on them.

When I pulled the motor from the International and dropped it in the C20, I noticed that every single one of the header bolts were completely rusted and corroded like I had gotten the bolts from cast iron manifolds in the pick-n-pull!

I contacted Summit to see what the deal is with their $430 ceramic coated COMPLETE header package and was told that Hedman doesn't include the bolts in their lifetime warranty, and that I should have upgraded to ARP Stainless Header Bolts for another $45 friggin bucks PLUS SHIPPING! And get this: The washers that Hedman sold in the package didn't rust/corrode.

Not happy with Hedman for their cheap approach to a package deal and not pleased with Summit for not standing behind the products they sell either; instead choosing to hard-sell me a set of $45 bolts and not even comping the shipping!

You would think after thousands spent over 18 months, Summit would do a better job of satisfying a customer. Now that business is slow and money is tight, $60 for header hardware is a tough pill to swallow.

Time for a trip to ACE and some stainless bolts that don't say ARP and cost $30+ less. At least I don't need the washers. Wooo Hooo!

Dave has left the room...

[patrickth]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

I got them from Summit Racing...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mmp-is-lm121

Thanks, will order today. Waiting got a truck to bring my new toy.

[Super_Dave]

Well, we went to the pick-n-pull to acquire some additional parts for the build project.

Mt C20 had a good working tailgate with no cancer, but the inner panel was seriously bowed and the top rail had a few small but deep dents, making the bodywork effort more than what the tailgate was worth.

So, we cruised around some yards an scored a super nice tailgate complete with hinges. Not the same year, but I am not trying to restore it, just make it a really nice DD. I will most likely cut the small letter CHEVROLET portion out and center it in the tailgate when I do the body work, then fill on the void with some sheet metal.

Then we scrounged up a really nice set of BLUE shoulder harness seat belts. Zero wear but some grunge from being in the yard. Depending on the final color of the truck, I will most likely be dying them another color.

I also grabbed a full set of rubber door seals. They need some scrubbing but are in amazing shape. Jury is out if I will keep them for when my new ones wear out or if I will just clean them and sell them.

My mirror was starting to get that crazed look from the coating on the back wearing off, so I sent my 12 year old daughter, who had more fun than what is legally allowed, on a mirror search. It wasn't long before I had an armful to choose from. I took two home so I would have a spare.

My window washer canister had a leak at the seam, which could be repaired, but I found a nice one and grabbed it. I left another one behind for my next run of parts.

The last thing I snagged was a ZT-101 Wiper Delay module that was installed on one of the trucks. I cut the wires as far back into the harness as I could, in hopes of determining how the PO had it installed. Thought it might be worth a stab at trying to see if I can get it to work for basically no money. However, I am having a dickens of a time finding any literature online about it.

My next trip in a couple days, will be to retrieve a pristine chrome front bumper from another '74, since mine has a little wow on the top that will cost more to fix and re-chrome than buying this one. There is also a nice radiator core support I will grab as well.

There was a lot of excellent trim pieces, which are time consuming to remove... might just take the entire fender and save if for future use... never know if you will get hit one day and settling for import body parts when you can save some nice OEM parts just doesn't seem like the right thing to do.

Anyway... here is my $129 haul not counting a couple of rediculous fees that ran the total to $140.03. That includes a $4.99 CORE charge on the tailgate! Who charges a CORE charge for a tailgate!!? Then they tacked on a $10.13 ENVIRONMENTAL FEE... what's that for!!? It's not like I was taking a leak out there or dumping my old parts!

Anyway, all in all, Not bad for 90 minutes work. Things are starting to come together... living the dream!

[rusty76]

Good looking truck. Sorry late to the party. But man I love the color combo. Looks like the cousin to my 76.

[Super_Dave]

Well, the tailgate is on (had to go back to the bone yard and get the mating fender brackets and trunnions) The swap was uneventful. I now have a super straight tailgate for $55!

Next up are the new KYB shocks, Cab Mounts and (4) hinge pins and (2) S springs. Need my sons strong back for help on the doors.