My 1991 Crew Cab project

[joe231]

[joe231]

[lowbrow454]

Man that's looking good under there!

[joe231]

Originally Posted by lowbrow454

Man that's looking good under there!

Thanks!!
I still need to clean the underside


So I needed to use my truck to go pick up some furniture, so I finished mounting the newer style seat last night (still need to modify it, the back of the seat sits too high) and bolted the rear seat back in. Then today we loaded up and went to leave, I had I power steering, the speedo wasn't working, and the transmission wouldn't shift. So I started troubleshooting the speedo. I put the rear on jack stands so I could run it. I wasn't getting any voltage from the VSS to the DRAC. I pulled the DRAC, cleaned it up and ohmed it out. It ohmed good so I plugged it back in, back probed it with my meter and fired it up. I was getting voltage from the VSS and the speedo was working. So it was a bad connection at the VSS. Oh and while I was under the truck I noticed my O2 sensor is broken, so I guess I'll be doing the 3 wire O2 sensor sooner than expected...

One problem-o-the-day down off to the next, no power steering. Fluid is good. Fired it up and watched the PS pulley stop, no belt squeal. I believe my cold pressure washing under the hood may have spread some grease onto the belts and pulleys. I cleaned everything up with some brake clean. The power steering was better but the belt still slipped now with squealing. Figured I needed to tighten the belts. Once I started to to tighten the PS belt I could that the pump was loose, last person to work on it didn't tighten the adjuster bolt now with belts tight and clean my power steering works great lol!

And I got my front bumper installed, finally!
I still need to clean it.

[joe231]

[MTCK]

Bumper looks good. My speedo is coming and going a bit too. Interestingly enough the VSS in the 205 has nothing to do with the trans shifting in my truck - just the speedometer. I think I have a loose crimp at the DRAC since I had to hack the harness all apart to keep the stock speedo.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Bumper looks good. My speedo is coming and going a bit too. Interestingly enough the VSS in the 205 has nothing to do with the trans shifting in my truck - just the speedometer. I think I have a loose crimp at the DRAC since I had to hack the harness all apart to keep the stock speedo.

Thanks!
Oh, so does the computer with your engine swap control the transmission? If so, where does it read the vehicle speed?

I have been happily surprised that I haven't found any hacked wiring so far, but I really haven't dug very deep yet...
I have had a couple trucks that were bad, one of the worst had a 3 wire orange extension cord hacked in for the tail lights lol

[joe231]

I decoded my SPID:

1. AS3 SEAT, RR, SUBURBAN (?)
2. AU3 Power Locks
3. A01 WINDOW, TINTED, ALL SHADED, W/S
4. A31 WINDOW, POWER OPERATED, SIDE
5. A52 SEAT, FRT BENCH
6. BB5 ORNAMENTATION, INTR, HEADLINER
7. BC3 ORNAMENTATION, INTR, I/P, DELUXE
8. BS4 INSULATION, BACK PNL
9. BY1 ORNAMENTATION, EXTR EMBLEM, BODY, VAR 3
10. B30 COVERING, FLOOR CARPET
11. B32 COVERING, FRT FLOOR MATS AUX
12. B85 ORNAMENTATION, EXTR MLDG BELT REVEAL
13. B93 ORNAMENTATION, EXTR MLDG, DR EDGE GUARD
14. B96 MOLDING WHL OPENING
15. CMD PLANT CODE, FLINT MI
16. C6W GVW RATING, 9200 LBS
17. C60 HVAC SYSTEM, AIR CONDITIONER FRT MAN CONTROLS
18. D34 MIRROR, VISOR VANITY
19. D45 MIRROR O/S, SST
20. E63 BODY EQUIPMENT, FLEETSIDE, PUBX
21. GQ1 AXLE, STD RATIO
22. GT4 AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
23. G60 SPRING REAR, AUXILIARY
24. G80 AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
25. JB8 BRAKE, POWER, DISC, DRUM 10000 LBS
26. KC4 COOLING SYSTEM, ENG OIL
27. K05 HEATER ENG, BLOCK
28. K34 CRUISE CONTROL, AUT0MATIC, ELECTRONIC
29. K60 GENERATOR, 100 AMP
30. L19 L19 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 7.4L, 1TBI, VB
31. MT1 TRANSMISSION, AUTO, 4 SPD, THM R
32. MX0 MERCHANDISED, TRANS, AUTO PROVISIONS, O/D
33. NA5 EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER O
34. NY7 SHIELD, TRANSFER CASE
35. N31 STEERING WHEEL, CUSTOM
36. N33 STEERING COLUMN, TILT TYPE
37. P11 CARRIER, GLIDE OUT SPARE TIRE
38. R04 WHEEL SINGLE RR
39. R8T CONTROL SALES ITEM 69
40. SLL SOLD ORDER
41. TR9 LAMP, GROUP
42. TT4 TT4 : HEADLAMPS, HALOGEN, 4
43. UN9 RADIO, SUPPRESSION EQUIPMENT
44. UP8 STEREO RADIO INSTALLMENT PROVISIONS
45. UX1 RADIO, AM/FM STEREO CASSETTE EQUALIZER
46. U73 ANTENNA, FIXED, RADIO
47. VXS BUMPER COMPONENT
48. V02 RADIATOR, HEAVY DUTY, WITH TRANS OIL COOLER
49. V10 PROVISION OPTIONS, COLD CLIMATE
50. V22 GRILLE, CHROME, RADIATOR
51. V42 BUMPER RR, STEP, CHROME
52. V73 ANTENNA, FIXED
53. XYT FRONT TIRE (LT235-85R16E)
54. X88 X88 : CONVERSION NAME PLT CHEVROLET
55. YD3 FRONT AXLE FOR SCHEDULING GVW PLATE
56. YE9 CONVENIENCE PKG, COMFORT & DECOR LEVEL #3
57. YG3 ORNAMENTATION, BODY SIDE 6 WHL OPENING BRIGHT
58. YYT REAR TIRE (LT235-85R16E)
59. ZN3 SPRING FRONT FOR SCHEDULING GVW PLATE
60. ZQ2 SALES PACKAGE, DRIVER CONVENIENCE
61. ZQ3 SALES PACKAGE, DRIVER CONVENIENCE II
62. ZYT SPARE TIRE (LT235-85R16E)
63. ZY4 COLOR COMBINATION,DELUXE(TWO-TONE) DELUXE TWO-TONE
65. 1SA OPTION PACKAGE 01
67. 24A STRIPE COLOR, ACCENT , TWO TONE , DK BLUE/SLATE (91)
68. 24D TRIM COMBINATION, CLOTH, DK BLUE (D) (91)
69. 24I INTERIOR TRIM, DK BLUE (I) (91)
70. 29L SECONDARY COLOR, EXTERIOR, DK BLUE (91)
71. 90U PRIMARY COLOR, EXTERIOR, GRAY MET (91)

[joe231]

Made some progress this weekend. I got my taillight clearance lights working (just lots of corrosion in the plug under the bed and cleaned the connections at the lights), Lowered my front seat where it's much more comfortable, formed up a patch for the passenger floor. I used some self drilling, self tapping screws to screw it to the floor to help in the shaping process. I still need to weld the wedge piece then remove it, cut out the bad, then weld the panel in. I would like to but weld it, but I think I'm going to lap weld it since I don't have any CO2 to run smaller solid wire. I'm using inner shield wire. I played around with some of the same gauge scrap and it's a bit of a pain to but weld it.


New seat position


Patch panel


Scrap welding


I also found more work to do
Guess one of the PO's hit something, the e-brake cable is kinked also.


Broken O2 sensor


Both front axle u-joints are toast


This is stamped on my front leaf springs, I googled it but didn't find anything. Anyone know if it's factory spring markings? I'm guessing it is...


Also is it normal for the cat to be behind the muffler?

[joe231]

As you may notice, I'm back to using photobucket for pictures. One pic per post was killing me

It rained this weekend so I was able to see where the water is coming from. It's leaking in the lower corner of the windshield. I have a good windshield to swap in and I was reading online there is an old school trick to use red rubber grease between the seal and pinch weld, so I'm going to try to find some local and give it a shot

[zack231]

It's looking awesome!!!
A little bit of TLC goes a long way!

[joe231]

Thanks Zack!!
You can see it in person soon


So yay!! Guess what I found...


More work!


This is why you are suppose to use non-hardening sealer. Apparently some one used modern urethane window adhesive. It didn't stick to the rubber and had voids in it that held water and caused some rust issues. Not only that but it is a major PITA to remove it. I'm having to use a razor to scrape it off.


I got about half way done stripping the sealer off and it got dark on me so I threw a tarp on it until tomorrow. Plan is to strip what I can off and try a grinder with a wire wheel to finish it off then I'm going paint it with POR-15. I plan on using some synthetic (non petroleum based) grease as a sealer.

[NastyBuzzard]

subscribing!

[joe231]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

subscribing!

Welcome aboard!!

I used a razor knife to scrape off as much of the urethane as I could then I used a wire wheel on a grinder to clean off what was left. I put POR15 on all the rusted spots and completely across the bottom in hopes it will provide a smooth gutter for the water to drain the the drain holes in the corners. I let that dry overnight. Then today I scuffed the POR15 and sprayed some rusteoleum semigloss all the way around. I'm just waiting for it to dry so I can reinstall the glass...



No fun, but I hope it holds the rust at bay for years!

[cochino12]

I like the truck Joe! I wish I could find an affordable crew here, I'm jealous

[joe231]

Originally Posted by cochino12

I like the truck Joe! I wish I could find an affordable crew here, I'm jealous

Thanks Adam!
I was surprised this one was around long enough for me to grab it. People are asking rediculous money for decent squares up here. I've seen people asking $4000 plus for regular cabs that are nothing special. I hope people aren't paying that much, that would price me out of the game lol

[joe231]

So....
I got my windshield installed. Then the trans issues started again. My speedo quit completely. I replaced the rear VSS connector, didn't fix it so I looked online to see how to test the VSS. Everything I find shows a different style VSS and says to ohm it out and it should be @ 400 ohms. I'm guessing it's the 2wd ones. I ohmed mine and it's open so I ordered a new one on amazon for @$30. Local parts stores wanted @$90. Got the new one, ohmed it before installing and it's open also . I installed it anyway and my speedo started working again. So I test drive it and it shifted beautifully. 1,2,3,4, and converter lock. Parked it and went to drive it a half hour later and it won't shift out of first. I disconnected the batteries and let it sit for a couple days. Hooked the batteries up and drove it around. Once again it shifted beautifully until it lost 4th gear. Shut it off and restarted it and it would stay in first. Anyone who is familiar with these trans should be familiar with "limp mode". When in limp mode it typically stays in second gear. With out going too deep, there are 2 shift solenoid, 1-2 shift solenoid and the 3-4 shift solenoid. 1-2 solenoid is energized in first, neither is energized in second, 3-4 shift solenoid is energized in 3rd, then both solenoid are energized in 4th. I was thinking maybe the 1-2 solenoid was stuck, but when the trans is stuck in first I can unplug the trans and it reverts to 2nd. I tried scanning it at the local parts store. Their scanner couldn't establish communication. I used the paper clip in the ALDL, and only get 12 over and over with no stored codes. I'm also finding mixed information online. Some info says bad solenoids will cause this, other info says bad trans temp sensor will cause it. So I have to do some testing and hopefully get a scanner to communicate. If anyone reading this has any insight, please share...

[MTCK]

Yikes that sounds like a headache. Only insight I have is on my trans there are two vss on the trans itself and a third on the transfer case. The one on the transfer case only runs my speedo and is not tied to the Howell harness at all. I was surprised by this as people are always tripping over themselves to get the '91 np205 but seems totally unnecessary in my application.

[joe231]

Marcus,
That's interesting. I know on the factory stuff, the VSS on the t-case is used by the computer and speedo. I'm not sure how many sensors there are on the trans (at least one), the computer uses info from the tran VSS and the t case VSS to detect trans mission slippage.


So my whole trans debacle has derailed my progress on the truck. My interior is gutted and taking up space in my garage waiting on me to patch the floor. So I decided to ignore the other issues right now and focus on that.its been pretty cold lately, single digits and some slightly sub-zero temps with wind! So last weekend I pulled the truck in my garage. It lacks a couple feet from fitting so I hung tarps up to hold the heat. I had to either climb over the bed, or go outside and around, anytime I needed to go to the other side of the truck. That was kind of a pain as I kept forgetting tools and suck on the opposite side from where I needed them, lol. But I was able to get my floor patched and painted with POR15. It was a bit of a pain to weld, and I really didn't want to throw grinding dust all over my cab, so I just left the welds the way they were... UGLY! Still need to pull out my seats so I can put all the interior back in, maybe I can find some time over the 3 day Christmas weekend.

[MTCK]

That's resourceful! I bet one of your trans vss 'a is the culprit. The one in my tcase only runs the speedo.

[joe231]

Thanks!
I've already had to replace the VSS in the t-case. It goes to the DRAC, then the drac sends signals to the speedo and ECM/PCM. When the T-case VSS doesn't work, nothing works. No shifting, no speedo, and the check engine light comes on and there are several codes stored. The current problem appears to be temperature related. I'm gonna finish up my interior first, after that I'll delve back into the trans. I'll figure it out eventually lol

[deejaaa1]

Originally Posted by joe231

There is some heavy surface rust on the driver side.
Attachment 1562981

i had rust like that on my 81. cowl had rust and leaked like a sieve when it rained. ended up going out the rear of the cab and undersides of the rockers. would of had to do some serious cutting/welding because it ran from the top of the cowl, around the bend of the firewall and then out of sight. i was too young and poor to do a proper repair.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by deejaaa1

i had rust like that on my 81. cowl had rust and leaked like a sieve when it rained. ended up going out the rear of the cab and undersides of the rockers. would of had to do some serious cutting/welding because it ran from the top of the cowl, around the bend of the firewall and then out of sight. i was too young and poor to do a proper repair.

Lol
I know how that goes, luckily this one isn't that bad...

[daddyjeep]

Your ugly welds will be just fine after you hide them under the carpet. I ground the welds a little on my floor patches, but knew they would not be visible, so why waste the time making them perfect. I buried mine under seam sealer just to be sure there were no pin holes to cause future rust.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Your ugly welds will be just fine after you hide them under the carpet. I ground the welds a little on my floor patches, but knew they would not be visible, so why waste the time making them perfect. I buried mine under seam sealer just to be sure there were no pin holes to cause future rust.

Yeah,
I know they will be hidden, but it still bugs me lol
I'll get over it though...


On the transmission issues, I found some information that the piston on the Actuator Feed Limit valve wears the bore it rides in, inside of the valve body. When this happens it will cause loss of 4th gear and lock up after the fluid is warm. There is a couple different fix it kits. Sonnax seems to make the best one, but the tool kit to drill and ream the bore is over $300, and the upgraded valve is $42. It comes with a steel sleeve that should stop the problem from happening again. TransGo makes an over sized piston that comes with the proper springs, a reamer, and a reamer guide. It's much cheaper at just under $100, but it isnt as permanent of a fix.

I may just pull the valve body and find a trans shop that has the Sonnex stuff and have them install it in my valve body...