Engine Components Upgrade List (newbie)

[Jahloha]

Team:

1970 C20, SB, stock everything

I am about to pull my engine and trans. I will be delivering the engine to the machine shop over the winter, but am curious (engine newbie), what are some of the components on an engine that I should look at upgrading or swapping out?

This is going to be a dd, so I am not super concerned with huge HP, just a low maintenance solid engine that can cruise at 75, but also be ready to two a trailer if needed.

I know this is a broad question, but I am excited to learn and hear from you guys. Again, thank you for your input.

Mahalo!

[71K20chevy]

I'd definitely put a cam in it, not much bigger than stock, but maybe like a 204* duration or something? Headers wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's all about how much you're willing to spend.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 71K20chevy

I'd definitely put a cam in it, not much bigger than stock, but maybe like a 204* duration or something? Headers wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's all about how much you're willing to spend.

Let me insert the word "roller" in front of your word cam above.
With the motor oil they sell us these days I will never rebuild an engine and stick another flat tappet cam in it.

I hate headers. That is a personal preference.

Figure out your rear end gears now. If you're running 3.08s stick with a stock transmission. If you're running 3.73s or 4.11s, put a 700r4 on you list of things to do right the first time.

[71K20chevy]

flat tappet cams are fine as long as correct oil is used, but since we don't know his budget it's hard to decide if he should spend $600 vs $200 for a cam. FWIW, my flat tappet has had 4000 hard miles on it with regular oil and has not gone flat yet.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by mrein3

Let me insert the word "roller" in front of your word cam above.
With the motor oil they sell us these days I will never rebuild an engine and stick another flat tappet cam in it.

I hate headers. That is a personal preference.

Figure out your rear end gears now. If you're running 3.08s stick with a stock transmission. If you're running 3.73s or 4.11s, put a 700r4 on you list of things to do right the first time.

Originally Posted by 71K20chevy

flat tappet cams are fine as long as correct oil is used, but since we don't know his budget it's hard to decide if he should spend $600 vs $200 for a cam. FWIW, my flat tappet has had 4000 hard miles on it with regular oil and has not gone flat yet.

My budget is tight, but willing to loosen if a part or service is necessary. So I am familiar with roller cams, but unfamiliar with any other mods that need to be made on top of switching to a roller...

[71K20chevy]

Honestly, a roller cam WILL make it more reliable, but flat tappet cams have been proven for a long time, so to me the difference is too minimal to spend $400 for a little bit of reliability and MAYBE 30 hp. Summit cams are about $100 with lifters, but they're old designs that won't let you get the most out of what you have. Brands like Lunati, Crane, and so on usually have more modern ramp designs that will get more power, but will go through valve springs a little quicker.

If I were in your situation, I'd throw a cam, headers (long tubes--shorties are only for looks), a dual plane intake, and maybe some heads on it and call it good. That would wake the motor up big time.

[hugger6933]

The problem they are talking of the oil now a days does not have a additive in it [some form of zinc something] that the older oils did thus leaving the flat tappet type camshafts more at risk of going flat. Now being that you are newer to the inside of engines you must know that other than a camshaft you would have to have roller type lifters and keepers of some form weather the newer stock type spider or a lock bar type set up. Also since the roller lifters are a lot taller you will need new pushrods. Then the tops of the rocker will need some type of roller stuff as well. Depending on type or brand you may also need a rev kit that locks all of the rocker arm together by the use of tall lock nuts that bolt on top of the rocker arms it is called a stud girdle.All of that is not needed for a good ol 350 chevy, run a 260H comp camdon't go over the 268H like I said before and by the oil additive every oil change, just ask the guys at comp witch one to buy[you can call 1-800-cam-help] and ask them, that is the CompCams help line.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

The problem they are talking of the oil now a days does not have a additive in it [some form of zinc something] that the older oils did thus leaving the flat tappet type camshafts more at risk of going flat. Now being that you are newer to the inside of engines you must know that other than a camshaft you would have to have roller type lifters and keepers of some form weather the newer stock type spider or a lock bar type set up. Also since the roller lifters are a lot taller you will need new pushrods. Then the tops of the rocker will need some type of roller stuff as well. Depending on type or brand you may also need a rev kit that locks all of the rocker arm together by the use of tall lock nuts that bolt on top of the rocker arms it is called a stud girdle.All of that is not needed for a good ol 350 chevy, run a 260H comp camdon't go over the 268H like I said before and by the oil additive every oil change, just ask the guys at comp witch one to buy[you can call 1-800-cam-help] and ask them, that is the CompCams help line.

Hugger:

Thanks for chiming in. Would I need to decide if I wanted to go with a roller cam prior to getting it machined? Or do I have some time to decide?

I have read your comments a lot, all over our board, so I appreciate your advice.

[bigmac73]

I am all about buying a top end combo, you can find a good one in the 350 to 375 HP range from summit, or higher from edlebrock or trick flow(heads, intake, cam) and sometimes with a carb included, just make sure the machine shop builds the lower end to match the set up for a decent price

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

I am all about buying a top end combo, you can find a good one in the 350 to 375 HP range from summit, or higher from edlebrock or trick flow(heads, intake, cam) and sometimes with a carb included, just make sure the machine shop builds the lower end to match the set up for a decent price

BigMac:

Help clarify what a top end combo consist of for me. Thanks!

[PanelDeland]

I agree with Big Mac.A complete matched topend can be a powerhouse since it is matched components.You usually get a carb and intake,cam and timing set with exhaust.You can step up a notch and get heads.They're usually cheaper than buying separate.Summit, and the other performance catalogs(you can probably look online) will give you a better description and over view. If you do new heads,get your machine shop to work with you on compression ratio and valve clearance to be sure you don't have any problems.
From looking thru your build thread,it looks like you are doing a complete rebuild.When the machine shop gets your engine,they should do an evaluation and tell you what you need.If the crank needs much work or replacement,check the catalogs for engine kits.You may find that for a couple hundred dollars ,a 383 is a build option.Don't forget to ask about the added machine costs before deciding.The added torque from the 383 is nice and should make a nice addition.Finally if you're not determined to keep it "numbers matching" you might consider a crate engine.It may be cheaper then a full rebuild with upgrades and comes with a warranty.They can be found at the same sources as the top end kits and at any GM dealer.

[bigmac73]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sm...-390/overview/


to give you a idea i think this one is rated at 400 HP/ 390 TQ, dig around jegs or summit there are several different options

[bbcmudtruck]

Need to know a budget first! Are you looking to spend 500 or 2500? Is your transmission up to snuff, or will it need a rebuild as well? How about your ball joints, bushings, shocks, brakes, body mounts etc? I know you only asked for motor advice, just trying to get an idea of what your starting with. If you just need a stock reliable rebuild, you can get that done for less than $1000 with a few upgrades along the way. If you want to wake it up a little, you could get a very responsive motor for around $2500. How much of the work can you do yourself? Basically need more info.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

I agree with Big Mac.A complete matched topend can be a powerhouse since it is matched components.You usually get a carb and intake,cam and timing set with exhaust.You can step up a notch and get heads.They're usually cheaper than buying separate.Summit, and the other performance catalogs(you can probably look online) will give you a better description and over view. If you do new heads,get your machine shop to work with you on compression ratio and valve clearance to be sure you don't have any problems.
From looking thru your build thread,it looks like you are doing a complete rebuild.When the machine shop gets your engine,they should do an evaluation and tell you what you need.If the crank needs much work or replacement,check the catalogs for engine kits.You may find that for a couple hundred dollars ,a 383 is a build option.Don't forget to ask about the added machine costs before deciding.The added torque from the 383 is nice and should make a nice addition.Finally if you're not determined to keep it "numbers matching" you might consider a crate engine.It may be cheaper then a full rebuild with upgrades and comes with a warranty.They can be found at the same sources as the top end kits and at any GM dealer.

I have considered a crate engine, just didn't know if I was acting foolishly to just get a crate, when possibly machining it could save me some money.

Originally Posted by bigmac73

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sm...-390/overview/


to give you a idea i think this one is rated at 400 HP/ 390 TQ, dig around jegs or summit there are several different options

So this would be something I bought and installed after the machine shop does their work, correct? Also, what about the bottom end. Is there a kit for those components?

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

Need to know a budget first! Are you looking to spend 500 or 2500? Is your transmission up to snuff, or will it need a rebuild as well? How about your ball joints, bushings, shocks, brakes, body mounts etc? I know you only asked for motor advice, just trying to get an idea of what your starting with. If you just need a stock reliable rebuild, you can get that done for less than $1000 with a few upgrades along the way. If you want to wake it up a little, you could get a very responsive motor for around $2500. How much of the work can you do yourself? Basically need more info.

I am wanting to do a 700r4 swap. My budget for the entire truck is about 8-10K. I would rather drive with patina and have the mechanical issues all ironed out, then look nice, but have major issues under the body.

[bigmac73]

show them the top end combo you are thinking about, ask them if they recommend a certain one, have them put it all together in the shop when they build the lower half,
i put a crate engine in mine, but the only issue is with that , if you have a problem and it is under warranty then it will be a hassle to get it fixed, i had to deal with them for a month or so and pull the engine twice and send it back twice to finally get it right,

i should have just used a local machine shop the whole warranty issue would have been easier that way , since the local engine /machine shop is down the street,
i talked to them and it would have cost the same either way

and yes summit sale rotating kits as well, but you need to let the machine shop get what they need for the build, just don't let them talk to some outrageous parts you don't need. Do your homework, another good website for info is www.hotrodders.com