Frozen brake cables - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chucks70 · 07-26-2003, 08:13 AM

Anybody have any luck un freezing brake cables? Would that electrolysis method work on them?

bobs409 · 07-26-2003, 08:29 AM

I found that they never quite work right once they are frozen up. I got one unstuck once but it wasn't easy. There was rust build up inside and it never worked too good after that. I bought new ones and never looked back.

PanelDeland · 07-26-2003, 08:03 PM

I've never done a brake cable but I did free up a set of heater control cables.I removed them from the car and coiled them loosely enough to keep from kinking them.I then dropped them into the oil drain pan still full of used oil.After about 3 days I took them out and started trying to get them to work.They loosened up enough to move but weren't very smooth.So I put them in the solvent tank for a few days then in the oil drain pan with fresh oil for an overnight soak.They worked much better than befor but still weren't perfect.This was in about 74 on a set of cables from a 53 chevy(I think).
I would suggest that on something as crucial as brake cables you should probably buy new ones.Make sure you lube them well so you don't have this problem again.

FrankHoy · 07-26-2003, 08:51 PM

I have tried without much luck. If they are for a 67-72 2WD, you can get them fairly cheaply from most auto parts places. I had a heck of time finding them for a 4x4. They are $65 and only found them at http://www.inlinetube.com/

bluec10 · 07-28-2003, 09:55 PM

Try soaking them in diesel fuel for a few days.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-29-2003, 08:37 AM

After removing them from the truck , I fasten them in a vise with the rear part facing up. I spray "Aero Kroil" penetrant along side of the core, repeating until the fluid works its way through the cable. This takes time. Once the fluid is soaked through, the cable will usually move and I work it spraying it to keep it soaked. Once the cable is free, I apply oil into the cable, allowing it to soak through.

This works for cables that look good. If the cables are really bad, we just replace them.

Jim

07-26-2003, 08:13 AM	#1
chucks70 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Cadiz, OH Posts: 628	Frozen brake cables Anybody have any luck un freezing brake cables? Would that electrolysis method work on them? __________________ 68 1 ton dually 292, 2001 Sebring, 2004 Trailblazer, 11 Camaro Convertible.

07-26-2003, 08:29 AM	#2
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I found that they never quite work right once they are frozen up. I got one unstuck once but it wasn't easy. There was rust build up inside and it never worked too good after that. I bought new ones and never looked back. __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

07-26-2003, 08:03 PM	#3
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	I've never done a brake cable but I did free up a set of heater control cables.I removed them from the car and coiled them loosely enough to keep from kinking them.I then dropped them into the oil drain pan still full of used oil.After about 3 days I took them out and started trying to get them to work.They loosened up enough to move but weren't very smooth.So I put them in the solvent tank for a few days then in the oil drain pan with fresh oil for an overnight soak.They worked much better than befor but still weren't perfect.This was in about 74 on a set of cables from a 53 chevy(I think). I would suggest that on something as crucial as brake cables you should probably buy new ones.Make sure you lube them well so you don't have this problem again. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

07-26-2003, 08:51 PM	#4
FrankHoy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 154	I have tried without much luck. If they are for a 67-72 2WD, you can get them fairly cheaply from most auto parts places. I had a heck of time finding them for a 4x4. They are $65 and only found them at http://www.inlinetube.com/ __________________ 72 Cheyenne 2wd LWB 402/350 CC/PS/PB/AC Tilt/Tach (upgrading to 4X4 402/700R4 CC/PS/PB/AC Tilt/Tach PW/PL) 71 Custom Deluxe 350/350 Tilt/PS/PB 00 Blazer

07-28-2003, 09:55 PM	#5
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Try soaking them in diesel fuel for a few days. __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

07-29-2003, 08:37 AM	#6
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	After removing them from the truck , I fasten them in a vise with the rear part facing up. I spray "Aero Kroil" penetrant along side of the core, repeating until the fluid works its way through the cable. This takes time. Once the fluid is soaked through, the cable will usually move and I work it spraying it to keep it soaked. Once the cable is free, I apply oil into the cable, allowing it to soak through. This works for cables that look good. If the cables are really bad, we just replace them. Jim



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