Anybody with cpp 4° lowering blocks?

[carbon69]

Just wondering if anybody is using the lowering blocks that cpp sells. I picked up the 1.5" blocks that lower and supposedly correct the pinion angle for dropped trucks. The truck is already lowered in the back with 6" lowering springs. If anybody here is running a similar set up, which direction did you install them? I know I need to check angles, just figured there is a right and wrong direction.

-67c10 swb trailing arm rear.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Can't you drill out the trailing arm rivets, and flip the arms? Or was that already done.

I think this is supposed to keep better geometry.

My old friend was into early C10's, and I was into square bodies then.

[carbon69]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Can't you drill out the trailing arm rivets, and flip the arms? Or was that already done.

I think this is supposed to keep better geometry.

My old friend was into early C10's, and I was into square bodies then.

No, I went with a ece crossmember. From what I've gathered there are pros and cons to flipping the mounts. The stance the truck has now is where I want it. I think you loose around a inch of drop by flipping the mounts.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by carbon69

No, I went with a ece crossmember. From what I've gathered there are pros and cons to flipping the mounts. The stance the truck has now is where I want it. I think you loose around a inch of drop by flipping the mounts.

Flipping the front T/A mounts should only impact the pinion angle & I/C. It should not have an impact on height. I flip them when doing >4" rear drop to keep things consistent.

[PGSigns]

Best way to determine what degree shim or block you need is to measure. When I did the lowering on the 66 I put it on ramps all round and with the weight on the suspension went under and measured the angle at both ends of the drive shaft to see where I was at. I then machined the 1" blocks I was using to the angle I needed. Put 3 degrees on the top of the blocks.
Jimmy