Blowing "Tail Stop Park Dome" fuse w/ Brake On Then Left Turn Signal

[Rich72C10]

When the brake is applied and then I engage the left turn signal I blow the "Tail Stop Park Dome" fuse. This kills the brake, running, dash and the dome lights.

If the left turn signal is on already and then I apply the break - the fuse does not blow.

In my truck I got a shorty tilt column from a forum member (can't remember his name). Am I looking at some kind of issue with the *right* turn mechanism inside the column/steering wheel? Can something inside this area cause this?

Edit: got my left and right mixed up - its when I engage the right blinker - doh

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Pinched wire in the column for left signal or by drivers kick panel dome light circuit maybe...??

[Rich72C10]

I don't think it is the dome light - just having it on at any time does not blow the fuse. Unless you mean the dome light is leaking into the Right turn?

I did have the column down a few times in the last week or so, to fix the darn lens being painted backwards.

[Rich72C10]

the next bit I tried was getting in the truck, doors closed (so Dome is off) and car is in the off position, key out. So with the blinker not even working I was able to blow that fuse when brake is on and I turn on the right blinker.

Another thing I noticed, with car off/key out, is when brake is on and I go left/right I get a little blimp (blinkers flash once).

[pjmoreland]

It sounds like your turn signal switch might be shorting to ground the white wire that comes from the brake switch, but only when the turn signal switch is somewhere between off and on. You could confirm this by using a continuity tester between the white wire and ground while you move the turn signal switch back and forth slowly between off and on. The question then will be where is the ground connection? Maybe something in your turn signal switch is touching the steering column housing. Also, you could check for any connections to ground on all of the wires in the curved turn signal switch. If you unplug the two halves of the curved connector and check for continuity between the black/white wire on the switch side of the connector and ground while you move the switch connector. This will tell you if the problem is in the switch itself.

[Rich72C10]

Thank you pjmoreland - that is a great tip for me. You reply came in while I was writing the below.

What/where is the "curved turn signal switch"?


I can get quite a few *right* turns without blowing the fuse.

1. Can turn on right blinker with no issues (far as I can tell) with Brake, Dash, Dome, Running lights off.
2. Brake, Dash, Dome, Running lights do not blow fuse - no matter the order I turn them on - when blinkers are off.
3. Brake, Dash, Dome, Running lights do not blow fuse if the left/right blinker is already on.
4. Only when Brake is on will the fuse blow *as* I am turning on right blinker. Sometimes on the first but sometime I have to turn on/off/on right blinker a few times and it blows the fuse. It's kind of random when turning on the right blinker.

Man, I am going to run out of fused soon. I been using low level fuses so it blows faster than what the fuse box wants.

[Rich72C10]

I removed the plug from the brake switch and testing white to ground. As I am cycling the column turn signal lever, I get is quick closer reading and beep. It's very, very quick but that is all it takes. I see the other side of the plug is orange (12v hot). Gnd to 12v makes fuses unhappy.

Ugh. I really hate pulling off the steering wheel... which I assume is where I need to go next?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Thank you pjmoreland - that is a great tip for me. You reply came in while I was writing the below.

What/where is the "curved turn signal switch"?

The curved turn signal connector is up under the dash, and is on the ends of the wires that come from your turn signal switch. There is bendy metal hanger on the firewall that the wires should be hanging from. It's approximately directly behind your speedometer on the firewall.

[Rich72C10]

Ah ok, thanks for that. I think that call that the half-moon connector?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

I removed the plug from the brake switch and testing white to ground. As I am cycling the column turn signal lever, I get is quick closer reading and beep. It's very, very quick but that is all it takes. I see the other side of the plug is orange (12v hot). Gnd to 12v makes fuses unhappy.

Ugh. I really hate pulling off the steering wheel... which I assume is where I need to go next?

I would be inclined to unplug the turn signal switch curved connector and perform the same continuity test you did again, but this time check the black/white wire on the turn signal switch curved connector instead of the white brake switch wire. The white wire from your brake switch connects to this black/white wire. If you still get continuity to ground, then this says the problem is in the switch, or maybe in the wires coming out of the switch, but not in the truck harness.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Ah ok, thanks for that. I think that call that the half-moon connector?

Makes sense.

[Andy4639]

I'd be willing to bet you pinched a wire in the column. The connector should be right by the column under the dash. The horse shoe connector should be right there. The wires run up through the dash. I your not careful it's easy to pinch them in between the dash and column when pushing it up to bolt back in.

[Rich72C10]

I have that all loose - no evidence of the ribbon cable, to the adapter/half moon being pinched. From the column to the up past the speed meter it is all cleared. I had to take a break and I'll get to pjmoreland suggestion.

When I got my replacement "short/tilt" column from a forum member, there is a half-moon to flat long connector adapter. That area looks okay (to my eyes). But I next is a meter test.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

I have that all loose - no evidence of the ribbon cable, to the adapter/half moon being pinched. From the column to the up past the speed meter it is all cleared. I had to take a break and I'll get to pjmoreland suggestion.

When I got my replacement "short/tilt" column from a forum member, there is a half-moon to flat long connector adapter. That area looks okay (to my eyes). But I next is a meter test.

I have had trouble with the connectors in the past pushing the pin out and if I hit a hard bump in the road in my ramp truck I loose the rear lights. I have swapped out the signal switch twice before finding the pins in the connector where not staying put. I have yet to have any problems after fixing the pins. Even with them in the plastic holders they would look fine until I pulled on them from both directions.

[Rich72C10]

90% sure its in the ribbon cable that is going up into the column. There is a little blank cover on the underside that covers a bit of the ribbon, about where the rubber seal is at to the dash (photo that attached). I removed this cover and let the ribbon cable hang down and pushed a bit of slack. Fuse stopped blowing, with brake on and engaging right turn signal.

I then took the slack out and used my hand to push up on the ribbon cable to the column, fuse blew with brake on and engaging right turn signal.

Repeated this twice.... now I guess I am in a pickle. Don't think I can get to the ribbon cable with the column on the truck?

[pjmoreland]

On a non-tilt column you can remove the entire turn signal switch with the column in the truck. Not sure on a tilt column.

[Rich72C10]

I saw on YouTube a 70s GM car (not truck) that was tilt that needed that signal thing replaced. Watched him pull it out and fish the new one in (has the ribbon cable attached to the plastic bit that I assume is the signal mechanism...)

With that said this is what I did, thus far I cannot get the fuse to blow.

1. Took the wire that is for the gear indicator light (it is not part of the ribbon) and push a little but up into the column.
2. Took the loose-ish gear indicator light and used electrical tape to secure it down the middle of the column
3. Push a little bit of the ribbon cable up into the column.
4. Took the loose-ish ribbon cable so its over the gear indicator light wire and installed the little black cover (that is in my post #15).

So now none of the wires coming from inside the column are tight at all and the gear indicator light wire is keeping the ribbon cable off the column as far as I can see. Tested turning on right turn signal and off a zillion times. Moved Tilt in different positions and turn wheel in different directions, while turning on right turn signal and off a zillion times. All while having brake, running, dash, and dome lights on.

Clearly not a proper fix and if that holds I'd be surprised. I finally remembered who I bought this column from, Randy500. Which he has been banned, so zero help from the seller. Though he was not very helpful (as in not helpful) when I had issues straight off the bat with it not canceling a turn signal.

Perhaps I am having a problem like what was found for 1971Stepside

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Thank you. I think you are right. I had the shop pull the column open this morning as they were about to paint it. The wiring is bad on the turn signal switch (bare wires) so that will have to be replaced, but otherwise it looked good.

[Andy4639]

In my 64 SS Impala when I installed the tilt steering column I had no help at all in person. I did have the Chevy talk forum but it was not much help when it came to me asking questions about what I was doing.
With that being said I installed the column and had everything hooked up and working. But The signal switch when activated wouldn't cut off after a turn in one direction. I could adjust it one time it would work fine turning right but if I turned left it wouldn't.
I could adjust it again to cut off left it would but not right. I played with it for several hours trying to get it to work. I even pulled the turn signal switch out of it and ordered a new one! Guess what...yep it was the same way!

I finally figured it out on my own though, The tilt steering had to be straight out not up are down but straight out like driving it position to set the dang thing. It took me a little over 3 weeks before I figured it out. Now it's perfect and I have a spare turn signal switch to boot!
So just take the time to look and see what it's doing and it will be fixed.

[Rich72C10]

Yep, agreed. Interesting tip on the turn signal canceling. I wonder if our tilt columns require the same "straight" aliment to adjust left and right? When I finally got mine working (my bother and I installed the column in his shop months ago) I might have just adjusted the last time when the wheel was "straight"!

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Another thing I noticed, with car off/key out, is when brake is on and I go left/right I get a little blip (blinkers flash once).

Okay new Signaler installed (from GMCPaul's) that its black with a red hazard button and proper curved/half moon connector. I wished I could say that was easy, nope - that was a pain in the rear to switch out! Thank you Andy for the upper bowl removal tip!!

The good: This Signaler from GMCPaul's is not rackety like the one I took out. Just seems better made all around (solid and not loosey). Also the "little blinker blip" I got when the Truck was Off, Brake On, Cycling left/right signal is gone. No hint of the blinkers getting power when they shouldn't.

The bad: When I have my Right signal on, as soon as I turn a little bit to the right the signaling cancels. Very odd, since I assumed I'd have a problem either with left or right not canceling, not that it cancels to fast!

[Rich72C10]

Fixed, was the upper spring. I actually got tired of trying to adjust it and put in the springs from my other Signaler - image that they worked better.

Now perhaps I can stop driving with the dome light on and worrying I have blown that fuse that kills the break lights!

[MAC71Cheyenne]

With the tilt column it has to be set "straight" in order for cancelling cam to line up with everything properly. The three switch screws fully seated and tight but not impact tight. The cancelling cam should set flat under the switch and not binding up with the cam through the switch at about 320 degrees. If you screw the signal lever back in you can manually test it by moving the lever through its stops and see, feel the action as it moves. Also make sure the v shaped return spring on the right side of the switch is fully seated with the tabs on the notches. Using a tooth pick or simular...small dab of white lithium or bulb grease on the moving surfaces isn't a bad idea.

[Rich72C10]

I more or less did all of that (the 2nd time).

I most likely got the spring out of true went I was trying to get the Signaler in before I figured out I needed to take off the upper bowl. I thought I tested before I put it together but clearly I didn't test going to the right properly. As much as it is a pain to take off the wheel, I rather work on this than have to take that upper bowl off again LOL!

Thanks Mac for the tips, at least you confirmed that I was going about it the right way

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Learned the hard way of trial n error. Just sharing' the love...

[Rich72C10]

btw, my new harness did fix my fuse getting blown. though I'll need to replace it again since when I turn on my hazards my rear brake lights will not flash (they will turn on fully if I am actively pushing in the red switch). GMCPauls opinion they are fully tested, never leave non-operational and they are a electrical part, so no replacement offered. It is what it is - my biggest problem is taking it all a part again LOL (actually cry laughing).

I didn't figure this out until a wrench fell out from under my hood (opps) when driving the to corner store a few days after the install. I had to pull into the center lane and run back to get my darn wrench! When running back to my truck I said to myself, why the F are my back lights not flashing!!!