Need to replace Cab Mount Supports...help

[airbrushguy]

Success, got support out with plate still in, but removed top flooring piece above plate. Now I still have reference for bolt position through floor plate but since there was only about a third of the support left when I started, it's hard to tell whether support goes at 90 degrees to subframe or any other angle??
Also should front of inner rocker be at 90 degrees when I put an angle degree gauge on it?
All looks good when clamped in position, but need to screw it together so I can hang door and check gaps and alignment.
Should I do cab corner before door? Corner seems to have moved out despite reinforcing rods....

[Molberg]

Good stuff! You'll likely have to adjust angle of inner rocker( bend in or out) when you fit outer rocker. Outer rockers usually take a bit of "curling" to get fastened. Curling them back inwards will give u more gap along the bottom of the door. Put your door back on and verify gaps/alignment now. (I recommend new pins and bushings in hinges first!) Set your rockers for alignment with door... Screw them, and then fit your cab support. You'll likely find the holes are out a bit where support meets inner rocker. No big deal. Drill new/ weld them home. Get your rockers aligned nicely with the door... And it will give you a point to align with when doing the cab corners. Good job. Someone else may have advise here as well... By no means a pro here. Lol.

[airbrushguy]

Molberg, you've been great! Thank you very much...beware though, I'm not out of the woods yet.

[Molberg]

Glad to hear you're gettin it beat! You'll get it.

[black_sheep454]

Originally Posted by DD1

I have been reading through this thread as I am in a similar position. I have been having trouble with the cab support replacement, especially as I am not that skilled at plug welding. I may want to just go the route of replacing the entire floor pan. Where did you get your floor pan from? Who would you recommend to get a quality part from?

Thanks for all of the tips on this thread. It has been very helpful.

I got mine trough a buddy who owns a restoration shop in town. If I remember correctly the part is from AMD metal. It's a very nice piece and well made. I haven't installed it yet but I like the fact that ill have nice clean metal to paint instead of cleaning all the gunk and undercoat off the current floor

[DD1]

Originally Posted by black_sheep454

I got mine trough a buddy who owns a restoration shop in town. If I remember correctly the part is from AMD metal. It's a very nice piece and well made. I haven't installed it yet but I like the fact that ill have nice clean metal to paint instead of cleaning all the gunk and undercoat off the current floor

Thanks, your response is very helpful.

First, I was looking at the floor panels on JEGS, which has the best pricing with shipping I can find. They have 3 brands; one we will eliminate right away because it's way too expensive, over $700.

The 2nd is AMD for $359.96 plus $119 shipping; the third is OER (Original Equipment Reproductions) for $461 shipping included. There is only a $18 difference between the shipped cost.

Since you had a good experience with the AMD, I think I will go that route and pay the extra $18. It's worth the extra few bucks for a recommendation. I have not seen anyone mention OER on this board, so it's probably better not to take a chance.

Also, it never even occurred to me that if I replace the floor, I don't need to worry about undercoating. Nice point.

Thanks for the help.

[DD1]

By the way, airbrushguy, looks like you are doing a great job. You are making progress on the stuff I am having trouble with, except I am going to chicken out and get a floor pan. Nice work!

[black_sheep454]

Originally Posted by DD1

Thanks, your response is very helpful.

First, I was looking at the floor panels on JEGS, which has the best pricing with shipping I can find. They have 3 brands; one we will eliminate right away because it's way too expensive, over $700.

The 2nd is AMD for $359.96 plus $119 shipping; the third is OER (Original Equipment Reproductions) for $461 shipping included. There is only a $18 difference between the shipped cost.

Since you had a good experience with the AMD, I think I will go that route and pay the extra $18. It's worth the extra few bucks for a recommendation. I have not seen anyone mention OER on this board, so it's probably better not to take a chance.

Also, it never even occurred to me that if I replace the floor, I don't need to worry about undercoating. Nice point.

Thanks for the help.

No problem. My buddy with the restoration shop only uses parts from amd so that's what I buy when I get parts too.

[airbrushguy]

Can you ever have enough vise-grips???

[Dean'smeanmachine]

Originally Posted by airbrushguy

Can you ever have enough vise-grips???

great job

[airbrushguy]

Ok, hung door today so I could check all alignment before final welding and got a surprise. Front of door aligns well, as does bottom, but it seems that despite the reinforcing rods still being in place, the back edge of door alignment is off. I have not welded anything back there yet because I haven't put the cab corners and rear cab support together yet so I can move the rear of the truck cab forward and then the claw of the lock will align and door can shut.
I would feel better tacking the outer rocker to the bottom of the door jam if I knew exactly where or how far from the front jam was from the rear jam. Is that something somebody could measure like the yellow "distance line" indicates in my pic? You can see in the other pics that the jam lock receiver is too far back from the door lock and only aligns if I push the back of the cab forward.
I need to weld the bottom of the cab jam to the inner rocker and then the outer rocker over that, so I think I need to get this resolved now.
Thanks

[Molberg]

Can you position it where you need and clamp with vise grips or screw it? Mine moved a bit as well. This is what I did. Aligned it with the door. Back corner has a lot of spring to it. lol I got 38" from forward jam(flat spot where courtesy light switch would go) across to just below door claw plate. Make sure your gaps around perimeter of door are as equal as you can get.

[Molberg]

Your lower forward edge of door skin should line up with forward edge of outer rocker

[Molberg]

This way your fender will have a nice flush edge to align with. Sorry for all the posts.

[Molberg]

Once that's aligned... Curl your cab corner in/ahead to make a nice gap along the door edge. K. I'm done. Lol

[swamp rat]

This is some great information, glad you asked the question as i have wondered if my truck was once repaired although i cant find any direct evidence of it, but the doors have never shut perfectly. This will be helpfull.

[DD1]

Hey, Airbrushguy, I just realized that it says you live in Hawthorne NJ. I don't meet too many people on this board that live by me. I give you a lot of credit for working so much in this weather. I have not been able to bring myself to venture out into the garage just yet, although I plan to move forward with replacing the floor pan in February.

I live in Suffern NY, about 20 minutes from you. I would love to come check your truck one day. Send me a PM if interested and we can exchange contact info!

[Molberg]

Just another note airbrushguy... That door claw plate is adjustable up/down, and in and out. If you remove it ... You'll see a stack of thin plate shims behind it. This gives you proper alignment of the claw with the latch by adding or removing these thin shim plates as necessary. Mine were all stuck together with sealer.. But there should be shims there. May have been some added or removed if repairs were done previously. Outline the claw with marker etc before you remove it to give ourself a starting point on reassembly.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Another addition to molbergs input, color with a washable marker the striker for door.try and shut door a few times(not to hard) see where the marker comes off, or leaves mark on catch. Gives you an idea of where your striking... just a thought.

[jimmq]

Ive been following this thread and I want to say thank you. I havent done this job in 20 years and need to do mine together with my son in a few years when he gets older.It is a great refresher and I picked some good tricks. Nice work

[airbrushguy]

Haha, it's great to see that my lack of knowledge and Molberg's wealth of knowledge are helping some of you guys.
I cut the 1/2" restraining rod from the back edge of the door jam and found that I could move that jam in easily. The 38" measurement helps alot. I'm going to have a friend push against the back while I weld the new bottom of the jam to the new inner rocker so I can proceed to align and spot-weld the new outer rocker and then finally proceed to cab corners and rear support.
Thanks for the encouragement, every time I post, I expect to see someone write "get it over with, will you!"
Thanks

[swamp rat]

This thread is awesome!

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by airbrushguy

Haha, it's great to see that my lack of knowledge and Molberg's wealth of knowledge are helping some of you guys.
I cut the 1/2" restraining rod from the back edge of the door jam and found that I could move that jam in easily. The 38" measurement helps alot. I'm going to have a friend push against the back while I weld the new bottom of the jam to the new inner rocker so I can proceed to align and spot-weld the new outer rocker and then finally proceed to cab corners and rear support.
Thanks for the encouragement, every time I post, I expect to see someone write "get it over with, will you!"
Thanks

Lol!! Good stuff!(not much wealth on this end though...)

[KMC3420]

Here is one other source to get the full inner rocker that has a bit more metal to attach to the floor. $59.00
http://hhclassic.com/i-13714794-oem-...rocker-lh.html

[airbrushguy]

Doors went on, everything aligned well. Took door back off, fitted outer rocker, took outer rocker back off, painted weld-thru primer (should have done this before fitting outer rocker).
Will grind down most of welding, afraid to grind flat because metal might get thinner. Need to screw outer rocker on one more time, hang door once more, and if all is good, do final welding.
Then on to rear support and cab corner. Hopefully the driver's side has helped me to do passenger side faster when I get there. Things fitting well does give encouragement even if it does seem like you're fitting and removing way too much.
Ultimately I will Por-15(top and bottom), DynaMat, insulate and cover with rubber floor matting....and no one will know any of this went on, ha.
But it will have to be quieter and less drafty!