Trim / Mounting Holes....What should I do?

[Chaparralman1974]

Hey everyone.

I am trying to figure out what I should do with the trim mounting holes in the fenders, doors, cab, and bed. I want to replace the trim on my '67 K20 with factory trim, but should I leave the holes in place and try to work with new factory clips, or should I weld all the holes up and try to use adhesive tape to attach the trim? I was thinking that the holes would be a natural point to let water in. I believe that nowadays cars all use adhesive to attach the trim and molding. Any advice or ideas? My reasoning for welding up the holes in the first place is because when the holes were originally punched in, it made the sheet metal wavy. I was thinking that if I just welded them up, I could skim coat the panel with filler to make it dead level and then just "glue" on the trim pieces.



Thanks, Clay

[howzzzit]

I will be replacing mine on my 72 C10 after paint. I purchased the wood grain lower and upper molding from Mar K. When I removed the old molding none of the adhesive spots were still adhered to the metal. Understandable with 50 year old adhesive. I think the 3M adhesives are pretty good stuff. What I'm going to do is use both the push ins and adhesive like original. I saved the old adhesive clips and wire wheeled off the old dried adhesive. Came off like powder. I'll do the same to the Mar K stuff as it's been in the carton for 10 plus years. (I'm slow) I'll then apply the 3M emblem adhesive to the plastic clips. I'll probably use extra adhesive clips down the bed sides in case of an adhesive failure. Don't know about yours, but the short bed uses adhesive strips on the upper molding except for the two end connections. I'm sure someone on the forum has some ideas. Keep everyone posted.

OOPS! Sorry, after looking at your truck we're talking two different animals. Oh well someone will help you.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Hey everyone.

I am trying to figure out what I should do with the trim mounting holes in the fenders, doors, cab, and bed. I want to replace the trim on my '67 K20 with factory trim, but should I leave the holes in place and try to work with new factory clips, or should I weld all the holes up and try to use adhesive tape to attach the trim? I was thinking that the holes would be a natural point to let water in. I believe that nowadays cars all use adhesive to attach the trim and molding. Any advice or ideas? My reasoning for welding up the holes in the first place is because when the holes were originally punched in, it made the sheet metal wavy. I was thinking that if I just welded them up, I could skim coat the panel with filler to make it dead level and then just "glue" on the trim pieces.



Thanks, Clay

No. Make sure the holes are right for correct alignment. IMO never use more than 1/3 adhesive clips per piece, if any at all. Short pieces, upper fender and rear use none, though I can't speak for a tailgate band.

Shame the holes messed up the sheet metal. Perhaps you can use the holes to straighten it.

[Chaparralman1974]

The metal is not super bad on my truck. There is a slight dimple / waviness that would be hidden by the trim. I was only able to see it when I blocked down the epoxy and it showed up as low spots around each of the holes in the door.

You can kind of see it here with this hole:

[kwmech]

In my past painting projects I have always welded up the holes.. Reason being is when you take all the molding off there is always a ton of dirt behind them. As far as badging, I have the painter paint in the same spot the designation of the truck

[Jason Banks]

I leave the holes and use the clips. The trim is designed to work well with the clips. If you were to tape the 67/68 trim on, it would be a PITA and you would need to build the tape up on the back of the trim to make it work and look factory. If you didn't build it up and just taped along the (really)thin edge of the trim, you wouldn't have much taping surface and the trim would be spaced off the truck the thickness of the tape.(which they sell in different thicknesses)

As far as water getting in, make sure the drains in the bottom of your doors are clear and functional and put some rope caulk on the holes in the cab corner and you should be good to go.

All of the 67/68's that I have seen are dimpled like that when they have the factory trim holes. I have historically made sure the dimpling won't show, or if I think it might, I'll body work up to within 1/2 inch of the hole and not have the build up at the edges of the holes. Most won't show.

Have you ordered your trim yet? I ordered a set of shortbed trim from Mar-K back in December and I'm still waiting, but I don't need it yet either. It should ship soon and maybe they'll be good on stock again.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

I leave the holes and use the clips. The trim is designed to work well with the clips. If you were to tape the 67/68 trim on, it would be a PITA and you would need to build the tape up on the back of the trim to make it work and look factory. If you didn't build it up and just taped along the (really)thin edge of the trim, you wouldn't have much taping surface and the trim would be spaced off the truck the thickness of the tape.(which they sell in different thicknesses)

As far as water getting in, make sure the drains in the bottom of your doors are clear and functional and put some rope caulk on the holes in the cab corner and you should be good to go.

All of the 67/68's that I have seen are dimpled like that when they have the factory trim holes. I have historically made sure the dimpling won't show, or if I think it might, I'll body work up to within 1/2 inch of the hole and not have the build up at the edges of the holes. Most won't show.

Have you ordered your trim yet? I ordered a set of shortbed trim from Mar-K back in December and I'm still waiting, but I don't need it yet either. It should ship soon and maybe they'll be good on stock again.

Thanks Jason! That definitely makes sense. I have not yet ordered any trim. I am still in the body working phase of the project. I am just about done with the driver side door and fender. Then I have to repeat the process on the passenger side. The hood and grill are in pretty good shape, so it will be onto the bed after that. That is a whole different story....the bed is going to take a lot of work or total replacement.


Clay

[raggedjim]

This guy used the 3M tape on 67-68 trim, you might drop him a pm and ask how it is holding up.

LARGE pic in post! https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...45&postcount=7

And here's a good thread about trim installation. It's tailgate trim but some good suggestions in there.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=705912

Good luck, Rg

[Jason Banks]

That tailgate trim thread is great. That's how I have done it, but the VHB tape beneath the clips to keep from making outie dents in the trim. I think I used 2 layers of VHB tape under the clips.

That's some trim I would consider using only the tape to hold it on. I never got mine to be perfect with the clips.

[Rufas]

I would keep all the holes. I used nothing by the metal clips to attach my moldings. Years ago I was able to ALL the factory trim from GM before it was discontinued. I think I got all the moldings in the late 90's.

With summer temps here in Arizona typically over 115° I didn't want to worry about adhesive coming loose.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Rufas

I would keep all the holes. I used nothing by the metal clips to attach my moldings. Years ago I was able to ALL the factory trim from GM before it was discontinued. I think I got all the moldings in the late 90's.

With summer temps here in Arizona typically over 115° I didn't want to worry about adhesive coming loose.

That is a good point! I have had adhesive tape fail due to the heat. I was able to use my slide hammer on a bolt to bring out the dimple a bit, so I think I will be good keeping all of the trim holes and reusing them.

Thanks everyone!

Clay

[Louisvillekytruck]

Originally Posted by kwmech

In my past painting projects I have always welded up the holes.. Reason being is when you take all the molding off there is always a ton of dirt behind them. As far as badging, I have the painter paint in the same spot the designation of the truck

Do u have pictures of the whole truck thanks

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Rufas

I would keep all the holes. I used nothing by the metal clips to attach my moldings. Years ago I was able to ALL the factory trim from GM before it was discontinued. I think I got all the moldings in the late 90's.

With summer temps here in Arizona typically over 115° I didn't want to worry about adhesive coming loose.

Right, and heat or no heat, the trim fits like it's supposed to. Personally I think adhesive clips with some pieces is OK, so long as no more than 1/3rd of the clips are adhesive. OT, NOS moldings often tell a different story, way WAY too many adhesive clips. Another OT, where adhesive clips are used, throw the tape on purchased clips away, and buy new.

FWW, here's a write-up on the subject. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=844873

[zicc1835]

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