Getting inside the rear tailgate....HOW?

[-Greg72]

I've spent some time looking at the rear tailgate and can't figure out how to get to the internals (release mechanisms, etc). Were these welded shut at the factory with all the hardware pre-installed?

I'm guessing I may have to cut some sort of access panel to do any work in there.....unless someone has some pics, or info on how to dismantle one....

[pound41]

If memory serves me correct you have to unscrew the 3 phillps screws on the inside of the taigate that will allow the handle to drop down. unbolt the side latches. Things are connected sort of like the harware on your hatch with clips etc. That just what I remember haven't messed wiyh one in a while. Look at an LMC catolag usual good pics

[mastercraftkpk]

Had mine apart a few months ago.

1 Remove the 3 screws on insode of tailgate.
2 Remove pull latch from outside side. You will need to allow it to rotate approx 30 deg. and remove the pull bars from each side of the latch.
3 If the tailgate is in the upright position, you need to squeeze the pull bars together in order to lower the tailgate.
4 Each side of the tailgate has a latch that slides into the side of the bed. Removal of these latches allowes you to pull the pull bars through the tailgate.

[71RestoRod]

Hey Greg! Got your snow tires on yet?

Pound41's description is right on. Don't cut it open! If your tailgate is anything like mine was, you may have to replace the wording 'unscrew' with 'drill out' !!

[71jimmy]

Yup, that's the way, took mine apart a few months back. Wasn't sure I'd remember how to put it back. Now I got the refresher.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Hey greg if that is your blazer in the avatar could we see some more pic's of it???? Look's like it may have claw's on it??

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Hey greg if that is your blazer in the avatar could we see some more pic's of it???? Look's like it may have claw's on it??

Actually they're 38.5" Swampers.....

You can find more photos than you'd ever want to see in my gallery pages here:

http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/album13


ENJOY!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Sweet looking ride thank's for the pic's...

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by 71RestoRod

Hey Greg! Got your snow tires on yet?

Pound41's description is right on. Don't cut it open! If your tailgate is anything like mine was, you may have to replace the wording 'unscrew' with 'drill out' !!

Hey Doug!

I hate to say it, but the '72 is going to have to pull "winter duty" this year and suffer the ravages of the salted roads....I don't have anything else to drive, so in the spring there will be even MORE rust to repair.

I have been spending a lot of time working on the "driveability" of the K5, and surprisingly it has a pretty nice highway ride these days. One of the things that continues to bother me is the small rattles from the tailgate area when driving on the street. At first I thought it was the exterior latches / rubber tailgate bumpers, but now I'm convinced that it's the hardware INSIDE the tailgate that's rattling around. I was considering replacing the rods in there with something a little more precise, like miniature heims and threaded rod...so that I could "dial out" the slop in the handle and latches. I'd also love to line the interior of that tailgate with about 3 layers of Dynamat to get rid of the tin can sound and give it a more "substantial" feel when I open and close it.

That type of project will require that I cut it apart and then create a removeable panel (like the later K5s) which might not be a bad thing. I'd also like to relocate the release to the inside of the truck to improve security a bit. I can lock the hatch, but without the "shin buster" on the tailgate, obviously it's still quite easy to simply drop the tailgate down.....locked or not.

[blazerholic]

You might get rid of most of the rattles by replacing the little nylon clip things that keep the rods attached to the levers etc. That's where the slop usually occurs. I've thought before about sliding some kind of foam sleeve over the rods to further dampen the rattles.

I've seen those handle re-location kits somewhere. Brother's maybe??

[Huck]

The rods that go from the center handle assembly to the side latches---should have square foam rubber insulators about mid way which insulate the rods against the inner/outer wall of the tailgate. They work well. If the tailgate has the blazer top inner trim on it, that will prevent opening it without the hatch lid open. Blazers should have rubber trim on the bottom, sides, and top which help prevent unnecessary noise from the tailgate. You can substitute house door weather stripping which works fine. Check catalogs like LMC for some detail. Huck

[jakeslim]

Originally Posted by -Greg72

Hey Doug!

I hate to say it, but the '72 is going to have to pull "winter duty" this year and suffer the ravages of the salted roads....I don't have anything else to drive, so in the spring there will be even MORE rust to repair.

woah....you may wish you didn't do that(later). That will start rust in places you can't reach! When I lived in NJ, I was fortunate enough to have my k5(77) break down on me the first month I moved out there. I bought a used civic, put the k5 in storage and boy am I glad I did that. Kina a blessing in disquise situation. Now that I'm out west, the body is no worse that when i moved out there.

jakeslim

[71RestoRod]

Greg,

I hear ya on the northeast road salt. CDOT used to use a sand/salt mix around here but they have since gone to magnesium chloride (liquid) which collects on your car like nasty white snot. It kills the trees along side the road and is highly conductive so electrical transformers close to the road have a habit of exploding as well.

I've seen tailgates like ours peeled open for restoration purposes. (this was before you could get repops with the lettering). Seems to me they cut down each side and along the bottom on the outside. The guy I saw do this would prime and coat the inside with a thick epoxy-based sealer to kill the rust. It did add a little weight & substantial feel to the tailgate but looked like hella work.

I think if you simply rebuild the hardware, replace the rubber anti-rattle cubes and empty out the debris that has no doubt collected inside you can kill most of the noise. You can also try replacing the bumpstops between the gate and the bedrails. I used to wrap electrical tape around my tailgate hanger 'link assembly' at four points so that it would bind up when I closed the gate and kill those rattles. The majority of my annoying rattles came from the rear lift gate.

Of course, relocating the tailgate handle would be very cool indeed. Post the pics when you're done!