1984 C30 CC/LB "Daily Dually"

[Andler2008]

Spent way too long overthinking this fuel tank mount because I know once I begin the 4 link and frame notch install, I'll just have to redo all of it. I'm a perfectionist at heart and I hate doing anything half-assed when it comes to metal fabrication, but knowing it'll all be rebuilt later I just fabbed this stuff up in a few hours over the past 2 nights.

I made the mounts so that the bottom of the fill tube will be 1/2" above the frame rail and it should tuck between the frame rail and underside of the bed quite nicely.

The top part of the bracket is what will be welded to the frame rails and I will use angle steel to bolt the tank flange to the top bracket. I welded nuts to the top tank frame to make it easier to bolt the tank clamps to the hold the tank. I picked up some flat adhesive backed weatherstripping from autozone and will use that as a pad between the mounts and the tank to keep in from rattling around.

I also ordered the -8AN to 16x1.5mm and -8AN to 14x1.5mm adapters for the fuel feed and return so I can easily run the lines from there. I have to buy another 20' of -8AN braided line too since this truck is so damn long lol. Things are progressing quite nicely.

[Andler2008]

Christmas is now over! Both my kids and my wife had a very great Christmas, which is all I can ask for. Had some extra cash from just saving it to make sure there is enough for Christmas and anything that may happen, just in case, so I decided to get all the nickel and dime stuff that would be forgotten when go to start it up and some other goodies.

Got quite a few things, some small, some large, but all important.
Speed Engineering LT's for $264.99
Direct fit rad for the C30 specifically, $107
Radiator mounting pads $15
2 AWG battery cables(25' Black & 25' Red) $75.25
10 GA black TXL 25' $27.50
10 GA red TXL 25' $27.50
Universal air filter $15.99
O2 Sensors $20.99 x2
Battery Terminals and Covers $23
Battery Cable Crimping tool and cutters $30
2 AWG 3/8 stud compression lugs for battery cable $10.95
red and black heat shrink tube $10.99
Oil Pressure Sensor $17
4" aluminum elbow for Air intake $34
2 4" intake couplers with adapter rings for MAF $11.36 x2
3/8" power and ground insulated stud junctions $15


Had the TXL wire from EFI connection come in and it looks like the red wire is 12 or 14 AWG, so I'll have to send it back and get a replacement order in. Also, I picked up a 25 gallon craftsman oil-less air compressor that was set out for trash and wasn't making pressure. I got it home to find that the piston sleeve and piston ring were destroyed, so I ordered a rebuild kit for it and will have it going in a few days. Only cost $40, so if it works, it'll be nice to have until I can get a new pump for my 60.

I also got a set of fans from a 2006 suburban, but they're way too wide. Looks like it was for a 34" core and not the 28". I was supposed to pick a set up from someone selling them on FB marketplace, but they weren't responding to my calls when I arrived to the location we were supposed to meet. I ended up going to the junkyard down the street and hastily pulled them from a truck since it was christmas eve morning. I didn't have a tape measure to check the length, so I ended up with a shroud that was way to wide. If I can't make them work, I'll just look to sell them and buy a set that fits. Only cost $40, so it's not to bad if I can't use or sell them.

[Andler2008]

I also got the powersteering lines connected to the gear box from the hydroboost, then I need to find a better high pressure hose from the pump to the hydroboost because the BB hoses face forward as does the female fitting from the pump. Then just some simple low pressure hose plumbing and it's set for the power steering/hydroboost system.

I removed the driver side front fender and core support to get a little more working room with the headers, power steering and wiring. Core support was removed mainly so I can mount the radiator and the fans easily so I'm not having to bend over the front end trying to make it work.

Current plans for the weekend, I have to tear down a 2004 YZF400 motor for a good friend who fried the crank bearing. After that, truck stuff will start.

1)Install and check fitment of new LT headers.
2)Install wiring harness
3)Build battery box for 78 series battery, may mount to frame where old saddle tanks used to be
4)Mount PS pump, Alternator and Radiator

All of this is depending on how well the LT's fit and any additional nuisances from the truck that prevent me from getting this **** done lol

[Andler2008]

One issue I've been trying to tackle is the power steering lines with the hydro boost. The fittings from the pump to the hydro boost are the same from the BBC to the LM7 pump, so that's good. The problem is from 1997 and up(not sure when it stops) GM added EVO for the steering system. It's a solenoid that comes on the back of the pump and makes the female fitting face forward. The BBC high pressure line male fitting also faces forward. So that won't work. I took a flow valve from a pre-97 PS pump on a suburban and swapped it out so that the female fitting faces to the rear and should accept the high pressure line from the BBC. However, the bends in the hard line are not allowing proper connection and still require a bit of snaking and what not to make it fit. Unfortunately, that puts the line way to close to the driver side header, so I'll need to figure something else out with that.

I also found that my driver side header is hitting the slave cylinder on the SM465. I've never actually done anything with manual transmissions and their associated parts before, so it's quite a challenge trying to move the slave cylinder to make the headers fit. I have to get a pull type slave, make the brackets for it and learn how to bleed a clutch.

Also, the L99 water pump that I installed (This was done to move the upper rad hose location to the drivers side for a shorter hose length and possibly cleaner look) hits the PS pump/alt bracket, so the old truck pump went back on.

Lots of things fighting me this weekend so I didn't get **** done. Just got discouraged at every corner. Hopefully I can get some of this stuff figured out.

[SBTork]

Very cool build! Stick with it man, it'll be worth it for sure

[Andler2008]

Found this on CL last night. This is some new-found motivation for sure.

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/...786404566.html

Attached some pictures just in case the post expires or gets taken down.

[BigDooley77]

How's the project coming along any updates?

[Andler2008]

I cleaned up the garage around it yesterday lol

I just bought a 30' camper and a 21' open bow boat to camp down on the river with the family this summer since 3 of our friends families also have campers and boats. One of them happens to be the head coach of our sons football team and the others just have kids on the team. So this is the perfect opportunity to have some fun, make some memories and drown in the maintenance costs and time of campers and boats

I did however, decide to go ahead and buy the Thorbros Monster 4 link, Watts link, and lowering spindles for the dually. I'm going to buy a couple sticks of 4"x3" tubing to build the rear frame rails and the C-Notch. There is so much pitting on the frame underneath the bed that after I cleaned it up and smoothed it out, it was just too thin for my taste. So once that stuff comes in I'll see if I can find some time to get it all setup.

My son is in select baseball that started 2 months ago and my weekends are going to be filled with boating and hanging out at the campground. This leaves very little time for literally EVERYTHING else.

I'm trying to squeeze every bit of time out of the day (reduced sleeping to 4-6 hours in the past month) and it's still not enough. Drowning just a bit, but I'll make it work. I LOVE THIS ****ING DUALLY SO IT'S STILL THOUGHT ABOUT DAILY. If that counts lol

[Andler2008]

Here's a couple pictures of the new toys/money leeches/maintenance monsters

[Andler2008]

I went ahead and bought the new Holley Terminator X system. Should be here sometime this week. I had made my DIY stand alone and bought the HP Tuners pro suite to tune the ECU, but felt like a plug and play system like this would better suit my needs and allow me to use the stand alone on my mustang swap.

I'm going to prime up the oil pump and start working on getting the fuel lines ran to the tank. Lots of AN fittings and clamps to get setup.

I also ordered the 3" drop spindles and missed out on a set of 6 22" alcoas with tires for 2k. Lots of dumb stuff happened this weekend that led me to the purchases that I got instead of what I was going to get. I would like to just have a running driving truck for now, then bag it later.

[Andler2008]

Installed the Starter, plug wires, headers, intake, and one hose end on the fuel feed on Sunday. Last night, I hooked up the Terminator X system and also made a few battery cables and ground cables. Got the Frame and motor grounded and I made the starter to battery cable. Got the starter solenoid connected to at least turn the motor over a couple times, works like a charm. I ran out of ring terminals for the remaining ECU connections and some other connections, so I'm grabbing those on lunch.

Tonight, I will be properly routing the fuel feed and return from the tank all the way up to the intake and installing the last few hose ends. I've got some hose clamps to keep the hose in place, so those will be installed as well. I 100% expect to get this truck running in the next few days, if not tonight.

I'm feeling good about the progress, finally. Especially my battery cables. It might seem like a small, insignificant thing to be excited about, but it's the small things that really make a huge difference. There is a sense calmness knowing that they look so good because I have the right tools to do the job. I just know that it's one less thing I have to worry about being wrong or half-assed that could hamper my ability to finish this project.

Everything in the pictures looks a mess, but I just want to make sure the wiring is good and the truck is running. Once that is done, I will be properly routing and securing the wiring and placing the ECU inside the cab.

[Andler2008]

Last night I had a little bit of a brain fart. Tried to start it up without first plugging the EGR hole in the truck intake. Once it started, it ran like a bat out of hell up to 3k rpm before I shut it down. Realized what happened almost immediately.

Today, I used my lunch time to go grab a 1 3/8" expansion plug from advanced auto parts and plug the intake. Once I plugged the EGR hole it started up and idled pretty well. Only ran it 30 seconds or so, just enough time to get a quick video and make sure it'll run. The alternator wiring will be here tonight and I've got the PS lines, so those will go on tonight or tomorrow.

Here is a link to the video: https://youtu.be/jjvkDNQxEPk

[monte0185]

Do you have any pics of your axle flip and notch? Looking for how close the axle is to the frame and pumpkin to the top of the frame. Im gonna be lowering mine and wanted it lower than with just shackles but I also wanna be able to run a GN hitch still.

[Andler2008]

I haven't completed the axle flip and notch yet. I'm starting a new job on 9/9, and bought a 2008 Four Winns SL262 a month or two ago, so I haven't been giving this truck the love it needs or deserves.

However, I believe the axle tubes are within an inch or 2 from the frame with a standard 5/7 drop and require a notch anyway. I'm not sure about the shackle drop, but I assume if it's a 4 inch drop or so, you won't need a notch if you still have the full spring pack.

[monte0185]

My black dually I ended up with about 6 inches after removing leaves and adding the shackles but I was really wanting to do a flip this time but the aftermarket c-notch is gonna be in the way of my helper bags unless I move them elsewhere. I was looking for ideas. Actually. Lol..

[Andler2008]

I would just put the springs back in, remove the helper bags all together, then install the c-notch and flip kit.

[Ford Assassin]

Bump for updates...

[Andler2008]

Got the truck moving a little with a make-shift throttle cable, and decided that was good enough. Before I start driving it, I needed to take care of the hole in the driver side floor pan and may as well replace the inner and outer rockers while I'm pulling it all apart.

So far, I've cut a bunch of rust out, but haven't gotten the chance to put it all back together. I'm still trying to determine if it's even worth the time and effort to replace the metal, or just look for a new cab. I found a cab with all doors and glass for $150 locally, but I couldn't get to it in time due to the seller just beating around the bush for 3 days straight before he finally told me it was sold. Still on the hunt for a new cab, but the ones that are available are in far worse shape than mine.

[Ford Assassin]

It's definitely a process...

Check out my build thread for my 3+3 dually LS turbo NV4500 swap:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803608