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Old 05-08-2019, 03:10 PM   #51
MONTE
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

I hit up a transmission shop in San Diego. Guy had one in stock. I’ll try to find the name.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:45 PM   #52
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Awesome man, thanks!
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:49 PM   #53
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Is there a part number on it?
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:18 PM   #54
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Hope this helps you.
Let me try it this weekend to make sure it fits.

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Old 05-08-2019, 07:39 PM   #55
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Wiring:

Would I need a voltage regulator for a cummins for the swap?
Which wires need to be connected to make this work?
Should I run the grid heater? Don't get cold in Texas.
On the 68 I have the following for the alternator.
Red
White
Blue
Black
On the starter side I have the following.
Purple
Black
Yellow

On the cummins I have the following on the alternator:
Big black
Green
Blue

Don't have anything for the starter or the injection pump/shutoff solenoid.

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Old 05-08-2019, 09:03 PM   #56
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Alternator you can run a Mopar external voltage regulator as a stand alone Setup like the old school applications did, or like mine I used an internal regulator conversion and all I need is one keyed hot wire to the alternator and it puts out 14.4ish at the alternator at idle. Starter solenoid run your original purple wire to it, fuel shut off solenoid on the injection pump just needs a hot in start/run. I have my original ignition source feeding mine as it draws little current. Besides gauges I literally have 3 wires going to my engine.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:12 PM   #57
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Starter and fuel shut off solenoid. I used my starter lug as my distribution block for my alternator, battery, and auxiliary take off to feed accessories and the cab, you can see the single purple solenoid wire. Shutoff solenoid is just a female spade terminal. My wiring is a little custom but the engine side will be the same. I planned on grid heaters hence the large gauge auxiliary wire coming off the starter, but in the low 20s mine still hit after just a couple seconds with a fuel heater delete also.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:16 PM   #58
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

The old school Mopar regulator made my lights “jump” a ford truck regulator will correct this
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:16 PM   #59
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by MONTE View Post
Hope this helps you.
Let me try it this weekend to make sure it fits.

Attachment 1901945

Attachment 1901946

Attachment 1901947
Thanks, I’ll see what I can come up with.
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Old 05-09-2019, 11:23 AM   #60
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Found it! Lmk if it works and if you have the contact info please.

Thank you,
Jon
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:26 AM   #61
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Did you have a chance to install the mechanical speedometer drive?
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Old 06-09-2019, 10:25 AM   #62
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

I was out of town for a few weeks but will be back on it this week.
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Old 06-29-2019, 12:47 PM   #63
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

The vss screws into the part you bought and isn’t needed. I also bought one but could’ve just removed the vss and been done
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Old 06-29-2019, 03:47 PM   #64
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Sorry I couldn’t check it out for you “projectking”.
Little progress.

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Old 06-29-2019, 08:10 PM   #65
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

All good. Nice progress!
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Old 06-30-2019, 11:15 AM   #66
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Little more.
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Last edited by MONTE; 06-30-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:56 PM   #67
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Thumbs down Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Not good.
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Figured out why I couldn’t get it running.
Hopefully it’s not expensive.
“Chrome lever”
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:10 PM   #68
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by MONTE View Post
Not good.
Attachment 1918872
Figured out why I couldn’t get it running.
Hopefully it’s not expensive.
“Chrome lever”
That’ll do it for sure. If you decide to tear it down and fix it yourself I have a couple spare fulcrum assemblies. There are different numbers from the factory but I honestly don’t have a clue the difference. I remember one of the numbers being more prone to breaking and researched it when I built my pump but can’t rememeber which one I used. Future thought Incase you broke it putting the top back on, I usually back the power screw all the way out and then use a 6mm 1/4” drive with a swivel and extensions to get past the fuel lines to run it back in. I know it’s not a proper place to “sale” but if you need one I’ll send you one for $10 when it’s time.

Be warned it is easy to mess up and destroy internal pump parts if you don’t put things back in just right and then you’ll be looking for more parts or another pump. I’ll admit my first time I broke my rotor and since then always know for sure it’s all just right before install.
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